Marcus Hanke's 2011 Baselworld report for Longines offers a valuable look back at the brand's novelties, including the Master Moon Phase, a column-wheel chronograph, and the Twenty-Four Hours. His detailed observations and high-quality images provide a historical snapshot of Longines' direction and design philosophy over a decade ago, offering context for today's collectors.
Basel 2011 Novelty report
Longines
by Marcus Hanke
Longines,
the insider’s choice among the Swatch Group brands, is again showing
several interesting and attractive novelties. The flag ship of its 2011
collection is the Master Moon Phase with retrograde indications. Common
with the general design of the Master collection, the watch has a
silver-colored and stamped dial, Roman numerals and blued hands. More
conspicuous are the two retrograde indications at 3 and 9, which are a
24 hours display (at 9) and a calendar (at 3). Two further retrograde
hands inform on the day of the week (at 12) and the small second (at 6).
Additionally, the watch features a moon phase and a day/night
indicator.

Overall, the dial appears a bit cluttered by all
these retrograde indications, apart from the impossibility for all
people over 40, to read the narrowly printed scales of the 24 hours and
especially the date without the help of reading glasses or, better even,
a loupe. Despite its impracticability, the watch looks great. Longines
also offers a black dial variant. Apparently, the movement in use is a
modified Valgranges.
Already last year, Longines presented a nice
column-wheel chronograph, which, however, failed to reach the dealers
since. While the exact nature of the technical problems responsible for
the delay was not disclosed, the manufacturer now claims them to be
solved, and the watch with the selfwinding column-wheel chronograph
movement should be available soon. This year, a nice new variant was
shown, with the designation “Record”, and a rather rarely seen design
feature: a so-called Nonius-scale, attached to the chronograph second
hand permits to read the exact fraction of a second; maybe not really
practical to use, but nevertheless funny.
However,
my personal highlight from Longines this fair is the so-called
Twenty-Four Hours, an automatic watch with 24 hours display. Continuing
the Heritage series, this watch replicates an old navigation watch worn
by pilots and navigators of Swiss airlines. With a diameter of 47.5mm it
is rather large, facilitating the reading of the times on the 24 hours
dial. The nostalgic, pear-shaped hands are rhodium-plated and have a
small amount of luminous mass. Winding and setting is done by means of
the massive, onion-shaped crown, aside which is a small push-button,
which opens the steel lid above the caseback. The latter reveals the
sight onto the large Valgranges movement, which is decorated with
stripes and perlage. All in all, the watch is flawlessly executed, and a
really conspicuous piece, not alone because of its size. Its (Swiss)
list price of about 3,000 Francs is not really small, however.
For the ladies, Longines shows a facelifted
version of its well-known Dolce Vita series. As seen with other brands
already, bicolor seems to become increasingly popular. For many years,
the combination of steel with gold was considered flashy. Now, combined
with pink rather than yellow gold, bicolor is an appropriate means to
compensate the exploded gold prices, while retaining a more luxury flair
than pure steel would have. I think that the Dolce Vita profits a lot
from the new look.
Another really nice watch is the Diamond
Conquest, the ladies’ version of a traditional Longines product line.
What makes this variant unique is its combination of steel with either
white or black ceramic. With additional diamonds on bezel and dial,
these already highly attractive watch look even more feminine.

The white variant features a mother-of-pearl dial

There is also a version without ceramic, but more diamonds
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2011-04-18 10:05:58 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2011-04-21 00:42:21