Longines Baselworld 2012: 180th Anniversary & St-Imier
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Longines Baselworld 2012: 180th Anniversary & St-Imier

By foversta · Mar 19, 2012 · 17 replies
foversta
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foversta's Baselworld 2012 report delves into Longines' 180th anniversary and the launch of the Saint-Imier collection, marking a strategic neo-retro direction for the brand. The article highlights the brand's efforts to leverage its rich history for aesthetic inspiration while integrating more exclusive calibers like the L788 monopusher movement.

This year was my first visit at the Longines booth and I couldn't choose a better moment to do it! Longines is celebrating its 180th anniversary with a wide range of commemorative models. Actually, two collections were presented at Baselworld:

- The 180th Anniversary collection
- The Saint-Imier collection.

Taking advantage to its long and rich history for the aesthetical approach of its new models, Longines clearly chose the neo-retro strategy to create its 2012 watches. In terms of horological contents, it is obviously not the great come-back of Longines as a prestigious Manufacture but well, the increasing share of the presence of exclusive calibers like the L788 (monopusher) or the L688.2 is a good move.

Let's start to browse the watches I was able to see with the 4 models of th 180th Anniversary collection.

I will not put in place a false suspense: the first watch I present you was my fav of the 2012 offer.

This Column-Wheel Monopusher Chronograph 180th Anniversary Limited Edition (I hope they will find a shorter name) is really an exquisite timepiece. Its design finds its roots in the first wrist chronograph created by Longines in 1913. The case is very well made and the moving lugs are a nice detail. You will notice the red 12, faithful to the original watch. Please note that the dial is not an enamel one. The dial is beautiful but sadly the date window spoils its pure design. This watch without a date display would have been a true hit. What a pity.

Caliber used is the exclusive L788 and I understand it is a monopusher evolution of the L688.2.

This watch will be available in PG only in a LE of 180 watches.













Longines kept exploring its past with a LE of 180 pocket watches which use handwind movement L878. Again, they are inspired by the first pocket watches created by Auguste Agassiz. Like with the Monopusher Chronograph, the dial is not an enamel one but a white lacquered one. I like its colour by the way. Sadly, I couldn't open the watch in order to shoot the movement. I regret it because I like the lay-out of the L878.













The two other watches of the 180th Anniversary collection are Ladies' watches. First one, la Grande Classique has a 29mm case and its bezel is set with 180 diamonds. Diamonds are used are hours indexes.

The PG cas one has a 25,5mm case and again, its bezel is set with 180 diamonds. Both watches have MOP dials.





Let's visit the St-Imier collection now. All the watches from this collection share in common a case with sleek lines, a rather big height and quite prominent  lugs. It is maybe too big and too thick to be really elegant but I liked this subtle mix of personality and of refinement.

2012 is the Chronograph year for Longines, at least that's my feeling. A wide range of  the St-Imier Chronograph is available: PG or SS or PG/SS cases, black or white dials, 39 or 41mm diameters. Difficult not to find the most situable one! Movement is the exclusive column-wheel L688.2 caliber which was exclusively developped by ETA for Longines.























Do you remember the Longines Master Retrograde and its guilloché dial? So here it comes again but this time in the context of the St-Imier and I think it is a good improvement. I never liked the guilloché dial which looked very cheap. This time, things are improved with a smooth dial and nice figures. A true relief for me. Movement is the L707 which was also developped exclusively by ETA for Longines and which was previously used in the Master Retrograde. Case diameter is 44mm. Due to the shape of the case, the watch looks very big on the wrist.

















A three-hands watch is also available in the collection in 4 different cases (26,30, 38,5 and 41mm). They all house an automatic movement, there isn't any quartz movement in the St-Imier collection, a good symbol of the new Longines ambition.

















I would like to thank a lot the Longines team for the warm welcome.

Fx

This message has been edited by foversta on 2012-03-19 14:29:45

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Mar 19, 2012

The Date on most of the dials, and, first of all, THE movements... When you think what Longines was, it is a pity to see what the brand is. I am waiting for THE Longines re birth, with some nice and fine movements.... Like in the past. Sad... Too sad. Best, Nicolas

CH
chaser579
Mar 19, 2012

They fall short of the quality and appeal of, say, Piaget, AP, Breguet, Omega, Rolex and the like (Seiko automatics, Tudors also). I like the chronometer and applaud Longines (and ETA) for their effort to appeal to a wider audience, but they don't quite make the cut as a collector's item, I guess. Still, a nice entry-level watch for those wanting to go beyond Invictas and Crotons. Thank you. ^_^

MA
Marcus Hanke
Mar 19, 2012

It would not make sense for the Swatch Group to build up Longines as a manufacture brand with high-end movements, aside Breguet, GO and Blancpain. Longines' purpose is to offer competitively priced, well designed watches with a name that transports emotions of tradition and quality. And this goal is perfectly met, IMHO. With movements like those that had made Longines famous, the watches would cost at least twice as much. Just where do you get a massive 18k gold chronograph with unique design an

MO
Mostel
Mar 19, 2012

pretty dismal... each model has a certain all right-ness, which some element ruins abysmally... the final model is OK, even with date, but looks at best like a really, really expensive Timex. As Nicolas said, when you recall the majesty of this brand... it makes your heart ache for the dead souls of truly glorious watchmakers and designers turning in their graves... These watches are for price-driven buyers who presumably know nothing about watches, and faintly recall that the name Longines mean

EC
Echi
Mar 19, 2012

And i say that with a bit of "nervousness". But the reality is what Marcus shared. Having said that, it would be nice if Longines doesn't fall into the trap of pandering too much to this market base. If anything, a bit of responsibility to its past by way of putting out relatively inexpensive pieces that don't compromise too much its history. What I'm trying to say is that even if its market didn't know any better, it would be nice if they can act as a doorway to finer pieces down the road like

AM
amanico
Mar 19, 2012

I have nothing an affordable Longines such as the Legend Diver, for example, which is a terrific watch and fairly ( not to say a bargain ) priced. But when you still have in mind the marvels Longines released, such as the finest Chronos ( 13 ZN, 30 CH .... ) and some great other non chrono movements, it is a pity to see that the heritage is not taken in account. In my point of view. What would you say, if, in 30 years, Lange comes with ETA movements? That is a bit how I feel when I see the new L

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