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Pingtsai's thought-provoking article challenges the conventional wisdom that top ladies' watches must always feature diamonds. By dissecting a Forbes list of 'best' women's watches, she prompts a crucial discussion within the WatchProSite community about the true criteria for excellence in women's horology, advocating for mechanical merit and design harmony over mere gem-setting.
Should the Top Ladies Watches Always Have Diamonds? A Lady Purist Challenges the Myths
Have you ever seen a top ten list and didn’t agree with any or most of the selections? You start to wonder whether there is something wrong with yourself and that perhaps your tastes and preferences are a little skewed. This is precisely how I felt recently when coming across an article on Forbes.com listing the 15 best women's watches from Baselworld this year.
Clearly the author who had made this carefully curated submission to the major online publication and had it accepted must be an expert. Although well-written compilations such as this one are backed by credentials and a long history of solid references, I can’t help but sometimes wonder, “How does one determine the best of anything, especially when the points of comparison are not clearly defined and difficult to quantify?” What are the criteria? Who has the authority? And can’t it all be highly objective to begin with depending on an endless list of possible factors?
When it comes to wristwatches, tastes and preferences are as varied as the bezel colors on a Hublot Tutti Frutti. Each watch fan has his or her own “top ten” based on factors that are important to that individual. One person may value innovation while another may favor value and comfort. Perhaps this is why PuristS have traditionally shied away from making formal “best watch” lists and declarations. They’ve always been aware of the differences that exist among the community and respect those differences too.
As for the top 15 list in the Forbes article, I clicked through the slide show of high-end luxury women’s watches and noticed that each successive qualifier was more blinged out than the last. Recognizing the impressive nature of each watch but at the same time conscious of my own inability to be impressed even though some had complicated movements, I wondered why does it have to be that ladies watches, “the nicest” and “the best” ladies watches have diamonds and precious gems. Are there not other ways to elevate the standing of a woman’s watch other than with sparkling stones? Can’t a ladies watch be great even without all the surrounding embellishments which almost always dominate the look and initial impression.
There have been very impressive ladies watches released in the past with intricate finishing and artistic craftsmanship applied to the dial. There have also been watches with interesting case shapes and strap/bracelet treatments. These collections have often resembled masterful works of art and belong in a museum as much as on a woman’s wrist. But I still wondered, “Why can’t there be more ladies watches where its outshining characteristic is devoted to the mechanics more so than the exterior aesthetics? Of course the watch still has to look good and make us look good. But certainly it would be nice when someone comments, “Nice watch!” to respond with “Oh thanks but let me show you what’s REALLY cool about it,” and flip the case over to reveal its movement.
Just when I began lamenting about the rarity of such a scenario, I quickly remembered that the list was created for the masses just as many high end women’s watches are today. Demand will drive product development and availability and glittering, colorful, jewelry styled watches are what many women seem to want. Fashion trumps functionality in the female watch market and what’s considered a fashionable accessory item can have a very different identity for a man versus a woman. Women will always have a broader tolerance for color and men will always favor power and performance.
What would be nice and what I would hope more watch brands would challenge themselves with is how to make high-tech more appealing and relevant for women. How will we connect with the beauty that is inherent in machinery when it’s always hidden behind a solid caseback and forgotten over a stunningly encrusted dial? Can movements be sexy? Can they have subtle feminine character? Can they hold their own without the overshadowing support of precious jewels? In a perfect world, I’d like to believe so.
A List of My Own
To be honest and fair, I was in fact impressed by many of the watches on the 15 best list. The intricate way that precious stones are set into the case and dial of a timepiece requires precision and an artistic eye. There aren’t that many people in the industry who have these skills and that alone stands to be recognized. What I questioned was why they were considered the best. Yes some of them had complicated movements, even tourbillons. But I feel that their significance is a hard fought competitive battle with everything else that is going on.
Since I likely wouldn't choose these watches as the best in my book, I set out to find watches from the fairs this year that stood out to me. They are not "the best". They are simply watches that I found to be interesting, desirable, and noteworthy - and frankly, that I wouldn't mind strapping on my wrist for an evening out on the town. Here are ten interesting watches from 2015 that women can wear.
Christophe Claret Margot
I know, I know. It has diamonds but how cool is a watch plays a famous tune and reminds us of the days when we plucked daisies and dreamed of young love. The first of Claret's feminine watch collection, the Margot plays the french version of "he loves me, he loves me not", removing daisy petals to a delicate chiming as one presses the button. Christophe Claret at BaselWorld 2015
H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Skeleton
At 41.5mm in diameter, it's slightly on the larger size for a women's wrist but still very wearable considering the closer fitting lugs. The reflective light in the sapphire case is way more interesting than any diamond ringed bezel.
TAG Heuer CARRERA - CARA DELEVINGNE
Surprisingly this is one that was on the original 15 best list. It's simple, modern, understated and probably pretty versatile. The diamonds are complimentary and not overpowering.
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Small Seconds
Another H. Moser & Cie and another simple, elegant watch with a beautiful dial. The diamond bezel acts as a frame and the luminous dial is the star.
With or without diamonds, the AP Millenary is a beautiful watch for any woman's wrist. If you or your partner has never tried one on the wrist, you'll know exactly what I mean when you finally do. The shape and sizing are perfectly balanced. In the above manual wind Millenary for ladies it is obvious that the dial is the star of the show and the diamonds are once again play secondary.
Jaeger Lecoultre Rendez Vous Night and Day Boutique Editions
This JLC is simply a lovely watch with a more classic and retro look to it. An added bonus is the night and day display.
With dimensions of 28mm x 45mm, I'm not sure how wearable this watch is for women. But I'm willing to bet it will look a lot better on a woman's wrist as opposed to a man. The unique case design definitely makes this watch one of the most interesting this year.
Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 39
One of the more popular watches for JLC in previous versions, the new model is even more attractive with a black dial. It can serve as the perfect everyday watch that isn't so boring since it sports a calendar and moon phase and also a sapphire caseback to show the movement. The 39mm case size is just right for a larger-sized women's watch.
Entire Peter Speake-Marin’s 2015 Collection
This one is a personal favorite and since it was difficult to pick just one watch, the entire collection was selected. Peter's watches are elegant, distinctive and always have unique details that make them stand out like the crown or lugs.
Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur
The last selection is the most blinged out of the bunch. But Richard Mille is another one of those brands that knows how to pay tribute to the female watch wearer. The sizing is optimal, the watches are comfortable and there's always something interesting about the watch. The Tourbillon Fleur has a little of everything, the diamonds, the complication, the intricate artistry and the wow-factor in the form of a blooming tourbillon wheel. What more could a woman ask for?
The Richard Mille RM 019 Tourbillon is a notable example of the brand's early commitment to integrating advanced materials and complex horological mechanisms. This model stands out for its focus on the tourbillon complication, presented with a distinctive aesthetic that combines technical innovation with a refined finish. It represents a period where Richard Mille was establishing its design language and engineering principles, particularly in the realm of high-complication timepieces for a discerning clientele.
The RM 019 features a tonneau-shaped case, a signature of the brand, crafted from 18k white gold. The movement, visible through the sapphire crystal, is a hand-wound tourbillon caliber. This caliber is known for its intricate construction and the integration of the tourbillon mechanism, designed to enhance timekeeping precision. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on both the front and back, allowing for an unobstructed view of the movement's architecture.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in Richard Mille's foundational tourbillon models and those who appreciate the brand's approach to material science and movement design. The RM 019 is part of a series of early tourbillon watches that helped define Richard Mille's position in the high-end watch market, offering a blend of technical prowess and distinctive visual identity. It is a testament to the brand's consistent pursuit of innovation within traditional watchmaking frameworks.
Ping, I agree that gemstones are optional for ladies' watches. On the other hand, through history, the best watches for MEN were decorated with the best arts like engraving, miniature enamel painting and gem-setting. That was the Golden Age. Thus, I consider the mechanical merit first, then the design harmony of dial, hands and case; and finally, the decoration. To this end, the Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon Fleur made my personal "List" of Great Watches from 2015. Not surprising as Mr Mille
Seriously, your article was quite eye-opening to me, as I normally don't look at ladies' watches (Erika having decided she has enough). Very nicely done and much appreciated.
She only own one watch with small diamonds as hour markers. She considers, and I agree with her, that too much bling is not necessary. Cheers and congratulations for another great post, Nilo
I'm sure many agree with that some writers at major editorials really don't know much about watches and what they're writing about. Sometimes I shake my head in disbelief ... Great article btw! Cheers, Anthony
...how much ladies like it (or not). Many women watches in the high end segment are men's which were downsized. It seems that since the last few years they make an effort to create exclusive ladies models, even more technical. There are classical and modern looking. Women seem to usually like original stuff (clothes, jewelery, shoes etc..). From ladies around me, Richard Mille seems to have one of the most interesting offer for woman. Patek for instance is much more classical: What I regret is t
Of Forbes 15 Best Women's Watches, I was bewildered. There is too much going on in the way of color, and design. I don't care for overelaborate watches and most of the Forbes choices fall in that category. IMO, when a watch determines what you can or cannot wear, it's not practical. Since women tend to wear more jewelry than men, (earrings, necklaces, rings and a variety of costume accessories) it's important to have a flow in your jewelry. Having a busy watch might work for some but I wouldn't
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