Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Sun Moon Platinum
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Sun Moon Platinum

By amanico · Jul 7, 2013 · 32 replies
amanico
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Amanico sheds light on the elusive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Sun Moon Platinum, a limited edition from 2003 that received surprisingly little fanfare despite its exquisite craftsmanship. He delves into its unique dial, harmonious GT case dimensions, and the beautifully hand-engraved Caliber 823 movement, arguing for its rightful place among JLC's most significant Reverso creations.

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Since how didn't we have a discussion on the Reverso Sun Moon Platinum?

An Eternity!

It is a bit JLC's Fault...

I made a search on the former catalogs, and I noticed that, if they communicated on the Sunn Moon-which was introduced in 1999, by the way- there was no other mention that one small line in the 2004 / 2005 Catalog, about the availability of the metals.

No picture on the catalogs, nothing else than these few and very discrete words:

" Materials available:

18 - Carat White Gold.

18 - Carat Pink Gold.

Limited series in 950 platinum ( 125 parts, 18 - carat WG crown )."

No mention in the 2002 / 2003 Catalog, which is normal as the platinum version of the Sun Moon was released in 2003, but curiously, no mention at all in the 2006 / 2007 catalog.

It appeared as it disappeared... Discretely.

Another point is to be mentionned, here.

Not many Platinum Reversos were released, if you remember:

The Reverso Reserve De Marche, the 70eme, the Reverso Platinum Nr 1, the Reverso Platinum Nr 2 Tourbillon, the Reverso Tourbillon skeleton, and this Sun Moon, which makes 6, only 6 Reversos, without forgetting the 2 bigger Triptyque and Gyrotourbillon 2.

It is time to give some justice to this opus, don't you think?

1/ The dial:



I'm generally not a big fan of not balanced dials, but I can make some exceptions, such as this Sun Moon or the Septantieme.

If I had the qualify the Sun Moon in only one word, I would say " Jewel ".

The power reserve indicator, the day night disk, and the moonphase, which are not located in a balanced way, can't ( or don't ) ruin the beauty of the dial, its " preciosity.

The ruthenium sublimates the dial, as well as these very nice numbers made in silver powder.



2/ The case:

For the Sun Moon in platinum, JLC used the GT case ( as well as the RDM, the Platinum 1, 2 and the Tourbillon Skeleton ).

Can we say that the dimensions of the Grande Taille are ideal?

I don't know, as I think that the main problem of the XGT ( Tres Grande Taille ) is more due to its thickness than to size.

One thing we can say is that the overall volume of the GT case is more ... Harmonious?

Let's recall that the GT case is 42 x 26 x 10 mm, which contributes a lot to the elegance of the Reverso.





The signed crown is well proportionned, and pleasant to wind.

The small pusher, under the crown is to be used to set the moonphase.

3/ The movement.

The movement had to be nicely finished, on such a great watch, and it is!

The Cal 823 is hand engraved, and, to say all, I would love to see more movements such as this one, or the Art Deco, or the Septantieme, housed in the Reversos.

If you're tired of admiring the ruthenium dial ( which seems to be impossible, in my opinion ), you can always flip your Reverso and have a deep look on the movement:





When I told you that this Reverso was a jewel...

This movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours, as well as the moonphase, the night and day, and the hours and minutes of course.

It beats at 21 600 vibrations per hour, and counts 23 jewels.

4/ Strap and buckle:

Nothing can beat a royal blue crocodile strap on a platinum case, which, also, works very well with the ruthenium dial.

So, for once, the strap is a good point on this watch.

As well as the buckle which is a single folding one, in ... platinum ( as all the GT and XGT platinum Reversos ).

Another good point, as I never understood nor accepted that the double folding buckle could not match with the metal of the case ( white gold buckle with a platinum case, to be clear ).

Therefore, the quality of the strap is good, and the folding buckle, in this case, is comfortable.

The only inconvenient is that this Sun Moon platinum is rare, as only 125 pieces were made, which, concretely, will lead you to notice that we don't often see / find them.

So, playing with it for a few days was a privilege and a pleasure.

Thanks to his owner to have given me this opportunity!

Looking forward to reading your comments,

Best.

Nicolas. This message has been edited by amanico on 2013-07-07 23:54:38 This message has been edited by amanico on 2013-07-08 00:07:24 This message has been edited by amanico on 2013-07-08 02:11:31 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-07-08 17:09:02 This message has been edited by amanico on 2013-07-09 22:29:47

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The Discussion
MO
moc
Jul 8, 2013
They can only be positive comments...

I am a huge fan of the "platinum series",why?Because they are absolutely gorgeous,delivered by JLC in a time when the munufacture needed to push its precious models and distinguish them from the rest of the collection,the collectors wanted to see and feel the difference,hence this beautiful movement,and attention to details. Its much different today where the brand,thank to the marketing strategies,almost sells itself and a lot of corners are enjoy care and details like these,you need to go to

MO
moc
Jul 8, 2013
On the strap....

Lately i am really attracted by platinum cases on brown semigloss straps...or tan....that will pick up the gold/bronze accent on the dial.........lovely. Mo

AM
amanico
Jul 8, 2013
I tend to slightly disagree with you, and I think you will fall in agreement with me...

No need to go for the top of the top of unaffordable high horology to get an exciting product... One example I know you will agree with me: The Duometre. ;) But I also agree with you when you say that you regret to not see this kind of product anymore... With some exceptions, too: The Reverso Red or TTR 1931 Black are highly enjoyable for example, Still there is a gap to fill... And the watches you mentionned were not truly replaced. Good or bad... That is another debate. Best! Nicolas.

MO
moc
Jul 11, 2013
Yes I agree...

The Duometre line fills that middle ground that is very very satisfactory. But that probably the only example,apart from other rare cases. On one hand the very limited use of platinum cases( c mon its the most satisfactory material to many of us..)if not only for top top watches,and that lack of the same category in otherJLC lines,is a pity. Which current Reverso will you go for?the TTR31 ,rouge,white gold Grut etc are not at the same level of the Duometre line, they are highly desirable......bu

SA
Sandgroper
Jul 8, 2013
Lovely watch indeed, I really like the dial side....

I am not so keen on the "art deco" finish of mouvements in general but that's just my taste. I also found when trying on the 1931 Tribute which has, if I am not mistaken the same dimensions as the Septantieme, at the Paris boutique in January, that the 1931 due to its slimness looked a little bit bigger?! So this Sun Moon should be perfect on most wrists. Forgive me but I believe that the strap is not Crocodile but Alligator Mississippiensis, I am becoming quite an expert you know..:):) Thank yo

AM
amanico
Jul 8, 2013
The GRUT has basically the same size, but is more rectangular and much slimmer

Than the 70eme. I really love the case of the TTR 1931. Which I find remarkable, even if I would slightly prefer to see it slightly smaller in size. Nonetheless, I find it to be a successful watch, and I am not the only one to think so, if you see how popular the watch is! Thanks for the correction on the alligator strap... Obviously I am talking with an Expert. ;) Best, François. Nicolas.

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