JLC, Breguet, AP Automatic Dress Watch Comparison

iim7v7im7 initiates a thoughtful discussion on selecting an automatic dress watch, expanding from a previous manual-wind focus. His detailed breakdown of pros and cons for three contenders—Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, and Audemars Piguet—provides a valuable framework for collectors navigating similar decisions. This article synthesizes community feedback on these choices, offering insights into aesthetics, movement finishing, and wearability.

Hi,

Thanks for your comments and suggestions regarding the manual wind dress watches.  It was quite helpful as usual.  I have expanded my scope now to include automatic watches and I have found three that seem attractive to me.  I will share both information and my current thoughts regarding these (pros and cons).  As we do not discuss price here, I have placed relative ratios on the image below to provide some context.

I would appreciate hearing your thoughts on these three watches (particularly those of you who have seen them in the metal). I also am curious as to your views on dark dialed dress watches?Both the Breguet and the AP movement images were found on the PuristPro site so thanks!

So here is what I am thinking…

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Pros: I like the JLC in the black dial, particularly in the rose gold.  It is an elegant and classical design. I had tried this watch on last year when I purchased my RDM in stainless with a light dial and I found it a bit difficult to read and it wore large at 40 mm. I think that it will both read better and wear smaller in a dark dial. I like the fact that it does not have a date with a clean small seconds dial. 

Cons: The movement is very nice, but I suspect that it does not have near the finishing of either AP or the Breguet which is a minus, but it is obviously reflected in the price. The fact that I already own a JLC as a brand is also a slight, albeit minor negative as well.

Breguet

Pros: I like the aesthetics of the dial.  The integration of the historic guilloche with a graceful, yin-yang gestural interpretation of the chapter ring makes for a classical, yet modern look.  I also think that the date has been beautifully integrated into the dial design.  The use of the silicon components in the escapement, lever and balance spring intrigues the engineer in me as well.

Cons: I need to find one at a boutique to make sure that at 35.5 mm it wears large enough on my 7-1/4” (18.5 cm) wrist.  I suspect it will, given the large visual dial to bezel ratio. I also wish there was more information regarding the movement.  I know that it is a Longines L990/Lemania 8815 that has been beautifully finished and updated with a high-tech escapement; but I am not sure how it compares to the JLC or the AP from a design perspective?

Audemars Piguet

Pros: I really like the rose gold and dark dial combination (very much like the JLC).  The simple dial and hands with central sweep seconds is elegant and timeless in its aesthetic.  I also like the use of brushed and polished surfaces on the case design. It was also my impression that the AP rose gold is a bit redder than JLCs. The Calibre 3120 is another large attraction to this piece. It is a beautifully designed and executed caliber.

Cons: I have only two minor concerns. The date window at 3 o’clock seems to nag at me a bit and I am not sure why.  Also the hour hand appears a tad too short in regard to the chapter ring appliqués.

Bob