History of Modern Indian Watchmaking: HMT & Titan

We will Explore Together the History of Modern Indian Watchmaking and which brands are taking that tradition forward.

HMT







From 1961 till 2016, Hindustan Machine Tools (HMT), in collaboration with Citizen, produced millions of mechanical watches, defining generations of Indian timekeeping.







Among the first watches to be made by HMT, the Janata was a favourite of Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. This winding watch was plain, affordable and had more than 25 variants.





The Pilot, along with Jawan, Sainik and Rakshak, were synonymous with the military. Though these were not specialised military watches, they were supplied to the Indian Army, Air Force and Navy, which were HMT’s biggest customers.

Titan



The Largest Indian Watch Company established in June 1984 as a joint venture between Tata Group and TIDCO, revolutionized the Indian watch market by introducing reliable quartz technology. Starting production in 1987, it grew into the world's fifth-largest integrated watch manufacturer.





The Titan Flying Tourbillon according to the GPHG "The dial, finished in a traditional hand-guilloché “grain of rice” pattern, is framed by twin sub-dials in a radiant peacock blue—a romantic nod to the national bird of India. These sub-dials are rendered in a refined flinqué guilloché, creating a dynamic interplay of light, texture and craftsmanship.

Encased in 18k rose gold, the watch embodies sophistication with its harmonious blend of polished and satin finishes. The sapphire crystal front and exhibition case back, both treated with anti-reflective coating, offer unobstructed clarity and an intimate view of the intricate movement within.

Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz, with a 36-hour power reserve and an accuracy of ±12 seconds per day, the Titan Flying Tourbillon is meticulously tested across six positions to ensure exceptional performance. Each piece is hand-finished with one of four distinctive decorations—Perlage, Côtes de Genève, Spiral Satin, and Circular Satin—making every watch a unique work of art."













As per Monochrome "The Titan Nebula Jalsa watch features a compelling marble dial hand-painted by Padma Shri Shakir Ali, a renowned Indian painter known for his Mughal and Persian miniature paintings. Protected under an impressive domed sapphire crystal, the evocative miniature painting represents a royal procession with Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh riding an elephant in front of the Palace of Winds he commissioned in 1799.

A painting deserves a frame… The 43.5mm case is crafted from 18k rose gold with satin-brushed finishes and polished chamfers along the openworked lugs. Its distinctive sandwich construction highlights a red agate decorative ring encircling the mid-case. As you would imagine, crafting such a part in a natural stone is quite a challenge, requiring the material to be perfectly uniform.

The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations/hour and boasts a 36-hour power reserve. The barrel bridge is openworked to highlight the symmetrical positioning of the barrel and tourbillon. The decoration is rather simple and is based on traditional finishing techniques, but the use of red agate to cover the bridges is an original touch.

Kalā Watch Co













A New Brand which just launched its Warli reference in a 40mm Stainless Steel Case with a Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz hybrid chronograph.

Bangalore Watch Company



Started in 2016 an independent watch brand based in Bangalore, India. They create watches that tell stories inspired by 21st-century India, focusing on themes like aviation and space.









BWC Apogee Horizon in a 40mm Grade 2 Titanium case powered by a Sellita SW200.







BWC Apogee Karman Line in a 40mm Ceramic Coated Case powered by a La Joux-Perret G100.







BWC Apogee Manzinus in a 40mm Ceramic Coated Case powered by a Sellita SW200.

Coromandel Watch Co.

Formerly Madras Watch Works was founded in 2024, they focus on producing high-quality, "assembled in India" timepieces that reflect regional maritime heritage.











Marina Edition in a 40mm Stainless Steel Case powered by a Seiko NH35.







Tanjore Edition V2 in a 40mm Stainless Steel Case powered by a Seiko NH35.

Delhi Watch Company

Formed in 2020 they focus on sports watches powered by Miyota and Seiko NH35 movements







500m Havrlock Divers





36mm DWC VAYU IV Military Watch





DWC x Timegrapher-Tithi Moonphase 39mm Case Size.

Horpa











Mumbai based company making sports watches powered by the Seiko NH35.

It's been Interesting to learn about Indian watchmakers, by no means is my list exhaustive, I am sure I have missed a few and others that catered more towards jewelry pieces. There seems to be a trend of new micro brands being launched in the last 10 years. Titan is by far the largest watchmaker in India. Variety is the Spice of Life and seeing how watch design is interpreted through each Culture's own unique lens is always fascinating.

Sources:

GPHG, Monochrome, ablogtowatch, Google Images

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