Independent Watchmakers: Must-Consider Guide
Independents

Independent Watchmakers: Must-Consider Guide

By Bruno.M1 · Aug 19, 2022 · 18 replies
Bruno.M1
WPS member · Independents forum
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Bruno.M1 introduces WatchProSite readers to Reima Koivukoski, an independent watchmaker whose exceptional craftsmanship remains largely undiscovered. Bruno.M1's initial post highlights Koivukoski's impressive background and unique approach to watchmaking, setting the stage for a deeper exploration of his work. This article delves into why Koivukoski's dedication to traditional techniques and bespoke creations makes him a significant figure in the independent watchmaking scene.

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Some time ago I learned to know an independent watchmaker ' Reima Koivukoski ' a bit better. I saw pictures of the things he made and we started to discuss quite a lot about watches.
And in the near future we will have lunch together to talk even more about his work.
Now I want you guys to 'discover' Mr Reima Koivukoski cause I was really amazed by his work. And I'm probably even more surprised this guy is still under the radar.
And I mean  A LOT under the radar. 

About Reima Koivukoski ( some info from our chats, LinkedIn, ... )

- Went to the Finish school of watchmaking (Micromechanic and Watchmaker/Watchmaking and Jewelrymaking), this during 4 years.
- In 2015 a few months internship at Christian Klings (Precision partmaking and finishing, for example a 3/4 plate with geneva stripes).
- 2016 a couple of months internships Voutilainen (Precision partmaking with Schaubling 70 and Hauser H1. Finishing training in beveling).
- 2016-2017 worked for 1 year as a watchmaker at Habring2.
- Meanwhile he worked for a few clients/companies to service and restore watches ( some big complications included).
- In 2020 he started his own company and wanted to make his own pieces. 

As I said, completely under the radar and I bet as good as nobody knows him. When I do a search on this and other watch related sites ... zero results
And this surprised me a lot! 

In 2015 he won the F. A. Lange Watchmaking Excellence Award 2015. 
I mean, this should be the start of a fantastic journey. Being selected to enter this contest is one thing, winning it is another thing.

https://en.worldtempus.com/article/industry-news/business/a-lange-et-sohne-f-a-lange-watchmaking-excellence-award-2015-20671.html

His track record and winning that A.Lange & Söhne price was already a trigger for me to look closer with a lot of interest.
When looking at a watch he made and knowing how he made it ... I was blown away.

So as I said earlier, he started his own business and had the idea to create his own watches in 2020.
But as we all know... that was that stupid time when Covid decided to mess up the entire world. 
You can imagine it was terrible to start during that time, even servicing watches was as good as impossible cause a lot of shops had to close.
Thats probably the reason Reima made only a handful of watches until today.

Now let's take a closer look at his pieces.

The movement.

Like many others he starts from an existing movement, upgrades it, finishes it perfectly and gives his own 'touch' to it.
In this case he starts starts with a  vintage Omega 266 or a Unitas. The choice is yours and depends on the case size you wish. 
Basically the end product being the Omega or Unitas will look the same.
If you want a 38 till 40mm Reima suggests to take the Omega, if you prefer a 41 and bigger the Unitas is the way to go.


This is an Omega 266





And this is how it will look like after he did his magic








Screws are black polished, snailing on the ratchet wheels, ...
Not visible on this picture but I asked him to do some perlage on the base plate. So the part that is not covered with the 3/4 plate which is decorated with Geneva stripes.
The 3/4 plate will have some nice bevelling but difficult to see on this picture
Also I asked him to bevel the spokes on the wheels of the gear train.
The bridge that holds the balance and that other piece next to the balance ( no idea how to call it ) will be black polished
On the movement it will say 'Handmade in Finland' , of course hand engraved

the dial
And yes this is in-house and hand made.
Since he makes his own dial you have the possibility to go for your own design.
One of the first watches he made had this dial.
tbh not a fan of this one but ofcourse that is personal opinion. not enough contrast between case and dial .. and too simple
This dial leaves me cold

At the end of this post I will include some 3D renderings he made.
We had some chats and I tried to explain what I prefer.
Can tell you already... I'm very happy with the result









The hands
Also in-house and handmade !
The hands you see on the picture above are nice but I prefer another style.
Picture below shows an amazing set of hands he had to make for 1 client
I love these and will have the same.






If you think you see spots on the yellow inner circle, that is just some annoying reflection


The crown on the watch (again pic above) look a bit big. But since he also makes the crown in-house ... We will design another (smaller) crown.


The case
Which is probably the most special/ important thing

Also handmade and in-house.
And not the easy way , using a CNC machine and polishing a bit smile
This is one of the messages he sent me:











So 3 rings, put together and afterwards attaching the 4 lugs.

some examples

Left how it started, right the result after a lot of work











( not completely finished, work in progress)

I think I'll go for teardrop lugs. (Again, he makes everything himself so you can choose the lugs you like the most)

Cases are available in steel but if you want to pay for it red, yellow and white gold are possible.
Want platinum ? no problem !

A metal I love but almost nobody offers is tantalum.... we know the reason
Not crazy expensive but a pain in the ass to work with cause it's so damn hard.
FPJ does it for the chronometre blue and in the past AP, Panerai and Hublot did it but I don't think we can name much more.

So I asked if Tantalum was an option.

Got this reply






So let's give it a try !

Now the best part ... He is not fully booked so ordering is a thing you might want to consider.

And the price is imo a bargain, I'm sure that won't last forever smile
The watch I want with all the upgrades like some extra black polishing, some extra perlage, hand engraving on the back, handmade hands and dials, hand made case
(that specific method)  .... find me another watchmaker that does all of this .... for a price around 10 K  + tax (in steel), 
A handmade case in Tantalum will cost about 5K extra, Gold 8 K I believe and platinum close to the price of gold.... but to be sure you'd better contact him (at least if you consider buying one)


Too many 'small independents' buy
-cases ( from a standard cheap 100 euro case to the more expensive made by Cattin ( Voutilainen), Las Artisans Boitier ( Sandoz-Parmigiani group)...) , 
-hands,
-dials ( Metalem, Comblémine, Cadrans Donze, ...),
-movements ( Vaucher, Agenor, Soprod ...,) Most of the times they don't do anything with the movement they bought, they just put it in the case

So in fact most of the parts are not made in-house but from third parties and they put all the things together. I won't mention all the brands I think of cause that would not be nice smile
But I bet you also can name a few dozen. They order a movement, they order a case and with a bit of luck they make their own dial.

Unless you want to pay an INSANE amount it's imo not possible to find 1 GUY that makes all of this himself.


All I can say is that I ordered mine !!!!
And before I wrote this post I did inform some close friends with the same watch passion, Let's say most of them ordered one too.

So it's up to you ... I don't gain anything here, just want to share something imo very special.
And don't blame me if rather soon then late he will not accept anymore orders cause he will have big waitinglist.
This is imo a fantastic option to get a real, entire handmade piece for a very, VERY good price
(Prices I mentioned are an indication and without VAT)

If you have questions, or want to order just like me and a few others already did:
R e i m a . K o i v u k o s k i @ k r o n o w e r k . c o m
or check his Instagram @reimakoivukoski

As said I was not a fan of the dial (a few pics up) but the last days we changed some thoughts and I tried to explain what I do like…. Couple of days later I got this 3D drawing.








Polished indents for the minute and seconds markers, polished , applied numbers.

The movement in one of the pics is yellow but since my dial will be 2 shades of grey and my case will be tantalum I prefer to have a silver colour.
He gave me these options: “can show 3 samples when the bridges are ready. Rhodium (bright) silver (whiter) platinum (warmer)”

Some extra 3D scans of the entire watch












( lugs look a bit out of proportion here, but that's just the drawing)


Personal conclusion:
1 guy watchmaker that makes all of this himself, that listens to his clients and does it for that price ... IT'S A NO-BRAINER
This message has been edited by Dr No on 2022-08-19 19:26:06

About the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Ref. chronometre

The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain represents the foundational timepiece within the brand's Souveraine collection. This reference demonstrates the manufacture's approach to precision timekeeping through manual winding mechanics, positioned as a core offering in F.P. Journe's lineup.

The 40mm case is executed in 18k rose gold with a fixed bezel configuration. A sapphire crystal protects the silver dial, while the manual-winding caliber 1304 movement provides an 80-hour power reserve. The timepiece features 30-meter water resistance and is paired with a leather strap. Production commenced in 2000.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking F.P. Journe's mechanical execution in a fundamental three-hand configuration. The substantial power reserve and manual winding caliber position this model for enthusiasts who appreciate traditional watchmaking approaches within the Souveraine series framework.

Specifications

Caliber
1304
Case
18k Rose Gold
Diameter
40 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
DR
Dr No
Aug 19, 2022
Would a case < 38 mm be possible, Bruno? . . .

. . . fitted with an Ω movement, naturally . . .

BR
Bruno.M1
Aug 19, 2022
Ask him to be sure

But I think 37 is the smallest with that omega base 37 till 40 I believe with that movement People that prefer a 41-43 will get a unitas inside but the end product will look exactly the same (same looks, finishing ... )

PI
piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1)
Aug 19, 2022
I thank you right now ❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️

That formerly Omega looks stunning. I've already reached out a friend who'd better contact him than buying anything else. Finally a young watchmaker with affordable prices, with time only instead of tourbillon, and a huge choice of customisation. Thank you so much for sharing

BR
Bruno.M1
Aug 19, 2022
exactly my feelings

time only and not a useless expensive tourbilon. And again ..; 1 guy that makes his own case, hands, dials, rework a good movement ... Who else does all of this. Making a case like this .. I can only name a few and they prices start at ( way too high)

WA
Watchonthewrist
Aug 19, 2022
Thanks for this great post from a very talented and upcoming watchmaker

I know it will be a success and sold out in no time.

AN
andrea~
Aug 19, 2022
Interesting!

It's always great to find out about new independents

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