Seven Iconic Watches Under £28,000
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Seven Iconic Watches Under £28,000

By ImranLondon · Nov 22, 2015 · 13 replies
ImranLondon
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Miranda challenges the perception that luxury watch collecting is exclusively for 'insanely priced' pieces by curating a seven-watch collection under a strict budget. This thought experiment demonstrates how collectors can build a historically rich and diverse collection without spending a year's salary on a single timepiece.

Well that was my friends assessment after his first visit. I can assure you I did prove him wrong! But it made me think, are we that used to watches costing a years salary for most people that we are detached from the "real" world?

So I set my self a little task I will share with you, seven iconic watches, encompassing most of the "genre", from recognised manufactures. Total budget, £28,000, less if possible.
Why seven?, lucky number LOL, seven days of the week also. Why £28,000? I gave myself a limit of £4000 per watch.
So for less than the price of a Patek annual calendar, can you have a sought after collection, strong with history, and a mix of modern and vintage?

Here is my attempt:

I start with an absolute Tour de Force from France, an icon, one the first wristwatches, and a celebrity favourite. from Cartier, the superb TANK. This iconic design, nearly 100 years in continuous production, is a must for any collection. I choose the most practical, affordable and yet in my eyes most vintage looking, the Solo XL automatic in steel. This piece comes under "my daily work/dress watch".



image Jack Road
image Jack Road



image Cartier
image Cartier

The bracelet gives it a business look, and a quick change to leather and it feels at home worn with a dinner jacket. All this history and practicality for about £2,000. Perfect!

So what about when you need to travel? There is only one travel watch , there is only one Rolex, so that means its another superb icon, GMT Master. Now I had to think hard, vintage 1675 or modern but classic 16710? I went for the 16710, because of its 100m water resistance,sapphire glass and if you go for a lumina dial, it still glows in the dark. Perfect for the different time zones, and once off the plane, perfect for the pool also. It also pairs up with a business suit, or jeans, and in this series, you still have Pepsi bezel. The best bit, you can them for around £3000. Once again affordability, iconic status and of course its a legend.







So what about that most desired of tool watch? The diver, the most essential tool, when surfing......the net smile This was a tough one, the choices are huge, the new Oris vintage diver, superb value, what about the iconic Submariner, you can get a nice 5513 within budget. Then there is the Seamaster, a used Planet Ocean...the list goes on. In the end though, I went for this,






Who can resist the red triangle, the gilt writings and the no crown guard case? The nearest I will get to a vintage 6538/5510! AND...you can use it without fear in water!!! A fantastic modern version of a vintage icon. The new price is a bargain £2300.

You have to have a chronograph in collection, right? Preferably mechanical, right? With a fantastic movement? A historically important chronograph, one that is distinctive, a legend , an icon of horology. This one was easy, a no brainer, I can not believe, you can still pick up a decent cal.321 Speedmaster for about £4,000. Criminally cheap, the asymmetric is also the watch the astronauts actually wore to the moon.



credit: Christies
credit: Christies

How about a dress watch, two-hand only of course . Preferably mechanical, and preferably from one of the great Swiss houses. Would be nice if its an icon as well smile yeah, only watch that will do, REVERSO!
The Tribute is a magnificent modern interpretation of the classic in terms of size. I can not make my mind up. I think with a nice black dinner suit,or classic suit, the black dial works really well, but for the more conservative, the silver classic dial is perfect too. An incredible piece of horology, and now you can get them for less than £4000.











What about a cool week end watch? A powerful display, a perfect accompaniment to jeans and t shirt. Another icon, a strong design, another mechanical, no date, and love them or hate them, Panerai is a strong design, no one can ignore. I decided on a 44mm, the PAM 112. The modern iteration of the classic. But you could easily include the 512 or 372. I went for the middle ground and the case that re-invented the brand. That amazing thing about the 112 is that you can get them for less than £3000! Now that's a Panerai I want to have.





And finally, the hardest category of them all. You have to have a complication. To find anything other than a triple calendar in the budget is difficult. BUT there is one stand-out for me, a calendar that needs changing only for leap years, a moon phase,and chronograph, remarkable, the Breitling 1461.If you want an iconic case, you can have the Navitimer, but I prefer the elegance of the Transocean on the wonderful mesh bracelet. What is unbelievable for this level of complexity is the price, I found one for less than £4000.











Now do not get me wrong; as PuristS, we do not discuss price, values etc. This was to show that a wonderful collection is within reach for any horologically challenged individual, with effort and determination.
I would love to see what alternatives my fellow PuristS would make.

BTW , I made my budget...easily smile


Best 
Imran


[typographic edits]

This message has been edited by MTF on 2015-11-22 16:27:05

About the Panerai PAM00112 - Luminor Base Ref. PAM112

The PAM112 represents the Luminor Base series within Panerai's collection, distinguished by its fundamental approach to the Luminor case design. This reference strips back additional complications to focus on essential timekeeping within the brand's signature case architecture.

The 44mm polished steel case houses a black dial configuration. The case construction follows Panerai's established proportions for this size category, with the polished steel finish providing a refined surface treatment across the case surfaces.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking an entry point into Panerai's Luminor family without additional complications or premium materials. The PAM112 serves as a foundational piece within the Luminor Base range, offering the brand's core design language in a straightforward steel and black dial combination that suits both new and experienced Panerai collectors.

Specifications

Case
polisried steel case
Diameter
44mm
Dial
black dial

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The Discussion
TH
TheMadDruid
Nov 22, 2015

My brain is fried right now so I'll pass; but I cannot wait to see what others come up with.

DR
Dr No
Nov 22, 2015

. . . is 3-ball. Hat trick - in - one Glashütte Original just released a steel Senator perpetual . . . . . . that covers an awful lot of bases. This might be as versatile as the VC Overseas, and a complication to boot; it could be the anchor of any collection. ~$18K. When it comes to value, it's tough to beat . . . [2013 SBGW047] . . . Grand Seiko. This reference is no longer available, but there are a number of mechanical GS models available for around the same asking price. Nearly as versatile

AM
amanico
Nov 22, 2015

In the vintage world, too, you can find some treasure without selling the house. Three examples: And for much less than your budget! Back in the moderns, the Longines Legend Diver should be mentioned, too: And many others! Good idea, Imran. Best, Nicolas

MT
MTF
Nov 23, 2015

Imran, A wise Japanese salesman told me to STOP buying 7 - 12 watches a year and just get ONE. That One would be SPECIAL. He was right. My suggestion for a watch that is can be a daily wearer must be in steel case. It also has to be elegant enough to double up between formal and casual situations. For sportive fun, it should have a "minor" complication; actually difficult to adjust for perfection....the flyback chronograph. To impress the watch geeks, it should have a 'higher' qualification. Not

AR
Arie - Mr Orange
Nov 23, 2015

Nevertheless I like this game. So I\'ll play, but I feel that 2 watches should be sufficient. A sports watch and a dress watch is all a sane person would need. Sports watch: It can only be a Rolex really... Does it matter which one as long as it has a steel case and bracelet? No it doesn\'t. I would go for an Explorer II or GMT. Steel, waterproof and as a bonus a useful complication. Dress watch: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 in platinum. Understated but über cool. There you go. I wish I was sane.....

AR
Ares501 - Mr Green
Nov 23, 2015

and I live your GS A LOT!! D

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