Breitling Navitimer 8 First Impressions

KMII · 2018-01-29T00:55:07Z

First look at the Breitling Navitimer 8 under Georges Kern. Explore its design, B-01 movement, and collector reactions to the new direction.

KMII

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

55 replies10269 views1 photos

KMII introduces the Breitling Navitimer 8, the first product under Georges Kern's leadership, sparking a community discussion on its design direction. He highlights its key features, including the 43mm size, in-house B-01 movement, and 100m water resistance, while also noting areas for potential improvement.

Yesterday the first product of the Kern era Breitling has been unveiled - the Navitimer 8. It is certainly not a rehash of the Navitimer as we most often know it (slide rule and all).

At the same time, it is probably also time for something different, something complementary, extending the brand in new directions, or putting it differently, extending the appeal to customer groups not really captivated by the current line up.

The basics are 43mm, the in-house B-01 movement with COSC certification and 70 hours of power reserve, WR of 100m.

Picture from: Breitling

I have to say I find the first product to be quite promising. My take on it:

+ the size is not completely outrageous at 43mm and a 41mm is to follow

+ one of the cleanest dials in the recent Breitling history, which is definitely a good thing

+ correct number of seconds subdivisions for the movement frequency (sadly this too often does not get done correctly)

+ classical look - certainly sufficiently so that pairing the watch with a suit is not completely cringe worthy

- the date - the watch could easily have done without - in fact it would hide the fact that the movement is not ideally sized for a 43mm case (I hope at least the latter bit will be a bit less of an issue in the 41mm version)

- not completely convinced by the bezel knurling; while it does work in combination with the crown I would be curious to see how it would look with a smooth Transocean style one

So overall I am quite convinced. What's your take? The right direction, an opportunity missed, something else?

Key Points from the Discussion

Many collectors agree that removing the date window or improving its vertical alignment would enhance the dial's balance, and a smaller size than 43mm would improve wearability.
Calling the new model a 'Navitimer' is questioned by some, suggesting that a new direction should warrant a new name, especially given the absence of the traditional slide rule.
The B-01 movement, while in-house, has been reported by some owners to have reliability issues, specifically with the automatic winding mechanism, necessitating multiple services.
The price positioning of the Navitimer 8, at SFr 7,100 for the strap version, is debated, especially when compared to other watches using the same movement, like the Tudor Heritage Black Bay, which is significantly less expensive.
The mandatory bi-annual watertightness service for B01-equipped watches, which must be performed at a central Breitling workshop, adds a significant ownership consideration, especially for pre-owned pieces.
The clean dial and good legibility are positive aspects, but some prefer applied hour markers without numerals for a more refined look.

The Discussion

VinnieD

Jan 29, 2018

... but I will be keeping an eye on the 41mm. This is definitely a step in the right direction. I had not even seen the date at first sight! Slider rule should be erased from the whole line-up: this was great in the 80s-90s but it is time to move on The brand deserves a fresh start

Bounce781

Jan 29, 2018

43mm - seriously?! Design is ok, but the mix of brushes and polished finished AND he date - meh. Then again, I’m not really a Breitling man, so maybe I am just prejudiced.

garyf

Jan 29, 2018

Nice chrono'. NOT a Navitimer, though. Bringing in something like this is great but you have to respect the heritage and this isn't doing that. You don't fix an icon.

keks

Jan 29, 2018

While I find this release a step away from the abyss my initial impression is it could have been done better. Calling it a Navitimer is questionable to me. If a new direction is sought then perhaps call it something accordingly? The bezel, diameter, date are further things that does not speak to me. On the positives I do like the layout and cleanliness of the dial. Very classy I must say. 100m WR also great, hope they will make available attractive strap alternatives that are also water friendly

KMII

Jan 29, 2018

I have rarely seen any reason to visit the Breitling Boutique in the last years. Only for service and straps - and I have to say the staff were competent, friendly and the service was first rate. But there was never a watch that sang to me. Now I am curious to go and have a look in May, when these will come out.

KMII

Jan 29, 2018

So this is a sign in the right direction - from my perspective at least Thanks for your input, Bounce781!

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