Hermès Cape Cod Grand Hours & Complications
Review

Hermès Cape Cod Grand Hours & Complications

By K T · Jun 22, 2008 · 21 replies
K T
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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K T provides an insightful look into Hermès' watchmaking endeavors, focusing on a showcase at their Kuala Lumpur boutique. The article highlights several intriguing models, including the Cape Cod Grand Hours with its unique variable-speed hour hand, demonstrating Hermès' commitment to horological innovation beyond its renowned leather goods.

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A few weeks back, we had the pleasure of attending a watch showcase by Hermès at their Kuala Lumpur Pavilion Boutique. I found the watches to be very interesting (especially considering how Hermès is so well known with their leather products) so I managed to take some shots and do some research on them to share with you.

One of the stars of the evening was the Cape Cod Grand Hours limited edition. The Cape Cod Grand Hours comes in two limited editions of 171 in rose gold and 171 in white gold; the number corresponds to the number of years since the founding of Hermès in 1837.

The Grand Hours module is based on a system that serve to speed up or slow down the movement of the hour hand, while the minutes and seconds move at the regular pace. Inside is a Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movement calibre H1928.















There were also some other pieces that caught my eye...

The Arceau Chronograph... (case design based on the stirrup)







The Cape Cod Phases De Lune

Made with a Vaucher Fleurier 12" H1929 manufacture movement inside... powered with twin barrels for 55 hours power reserve.









And also the Cape Cod 8 Jours Heures Sautantes

Made with a handwound Vaucher H8928 manufacture movement inside providing jumping hours, power reserve indicator and 8 days power reserve.











Upon further discussions with Eric Grellety Bosviel, Hermès Asiapac Managing Director and Chan Maelynn, Brand Manager, we learnt that the tradition of watches in Hermes has existed since the earlier parts of the 1900s (even with some collaborations with JLC, Universal and VC in the 1930s).

During the 1920s Émile-Maurice Hermès added the Hermès name to wristwatches. Below is a picture taken in 1912 where Jacqueline Hermès, the daughter of Emile Hermès, is pictured wearing a pocket-watch with a Hermès strap.



In 1928, Hermès began selling watches at 24, Faubourg Saint-Honoré with the Ermeto, a pocket-watch that is automatically wound by a system of shutters that slide open and shut each time one reads the time. Made in conjunction with the Swiss watch Manufacture Movado.



A shot of a famous creation, the Hermès belt watch...



Through those discussions, we learned a lot more about Hermès watch evolution over the years and their upcoming plans. I think we can expect some interesting developments soon.

My thanks to Eric and Maelynn for kindly hosting us and providing us with the information. Thanks for looking!

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The Discussion
SH
Shark
Jun 22, 2008

Hello KT, Thanks for the post. Could you please elaborate on how the Grand Hours module work? Regards, Tat

K
K T
Jun 22, 2008

to what I gathered, the system is made possible with toothed ovals that allow the hours to move at a different rate. According to them, you can customise which particular hours you want to be made 'special' i.e. to highlight the importance of those hours (e.g. break time, hours spent with the family etc).

JA
Jacky
Jun 22, 2008

Eric and Mae is indeed very kind The Cape Cod 8 days is my favourite of them all! And yes they are getting serious in their watches and i believe Hermes will always be Hermes Still thinking bout their wallet...sweat~ Regards

JA
Jacky
Jun 22, 2008

I recall of Franck Muller. One of their watches are something like that, not sure how it works mechanically but at certain hours it moves slower, or have a longer circle Pretty cool thing and Hermes one looks a lot better imho, talking bout that Cape Cod Regards Jacky

ZE
zephyr49
Jun 22, 2008

I like the Cape Cod Phases de Lune and the 8 days and their font is unique to Hermes. The Grand Hours is interesting. Wonder if I could get to see these watches here in Singapore's boutique. Time to email/call Hermes! Thanks, Lionel

ST
Steyr
Jun 23, 2008

No, the mechanical that is used in the FM Cintrée Iregular Retrograde Hour is different. I beleive it is based on a cam with irregular slopes. Slopes are more or less progressive to have a variable speed. I read also about the Crazy Hours, but this is something different again. To my knowledge Hermes is the firs one introducing a variable speed. I was working on a project that is making speed variable as well, but not with ovals wheels. When they say the customer can select which hours are faste

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