Review
Blomman Mr Blue shares his extensive 'On the Wrist Experience' with the Girard-Perregaux Traveller Large Date, Moon Phases & GMT with Sapphire dial. This in-depth review, made possible by a loan from GP, offers insights into the watch's nuances that go beyond typical press releases or brief try-ons. Blomman Mr Blue aims to uncover the true essence of this timepiece, focusing on its wearability and intricate details.
Friends,
As you know, Girard-Perregaux had the kindness to let me wear the Traveller Large Date, Moon Phases & GMT with Sapphire dial for a few weeks to get a real “On the Wrist Experience”!
This year the Traveller with Sapphire dial was released in Pink Gold and in Stainless Steel. The watch I had as a loan was the novelty in Stainless Steel, reference 49655-11-231-BB6A.
I like to start by sending a special thank you to both the GP teams in La Chaux-de-Fonds and in Milano for making this possible! Thank you!
Some may wonder why an “On the Wrist Experience”? So I get to play with a cool watch? Yes, that is a bonus but the main reason is to really get to know the watch, what makes it “tick”! (Pun intended)
To understand the watch and to find out all these small details that you can’t read about in a press release or discover just by trying on the watch for a few minutes…
Find out what you really like about the watch and what may disturb you about it…
At first glance this watch is all about THE DIAL!
Is it a transparent dial? Is it a see through dial? Skeleton? No, skeleton it is not!
Depending on angle, light and reflection the dial plays with your mind in a way most watches do not…
The smoky grey sapphire dial is both transparent and a see through dial! But only on its own conditions!
During the time I was wearing the Traveller I realized you have at least four “different” dials…
DIAL ONE: in a lighter grey tone, making you focus on the functions on top of the dial: the Large Date, the Moon Phases and the GMT…
The applied GP logo and the indexes gets pronounced and so do the written logo and the seconds track around the Moon Phases.
DIAL TWO: the “black” dial. The black dial comes out in hard light when the dial reflects on something darker. All the white details jump out: the hands, the seconds hand, the GMT dial, the date…
What also gets more apparent is the Longitude and Latitude pattern. The stars on top of the Moon Phases are almost sparkling and it is hard to see the movement underneath the dial…
DIAL THREE: the “mirror” dial, sometimes the mirror effect kicks in and the dial turns to silver! You hardly see any details, just hints and your memory will tell you that it is there…
When the mirror effect appears you actually get a mirror 2x – 1x the crystal and 1x the dial. Like a familiar dream, you know it is there, but you can’t see it really clearly.
DIAL FOUR: then there is the perfect “smoky” dial which let you see all! Both on the dial and what’s under the dial…
You perfectly see every tiny screw; the edge of transparent date disk. You get the feeling you know exactly how every part in the movement works!
Easily-operated COMPLICATIONS!
THE LARGE DATE: the transparent date wheel to the left jumps one for each day and the black date wheel jumps one every ten days. Not sure if “jump“ is the correct word here, the switch is change is completed under 5 milliseconds! I tried to see the switch with the naked eye, but …
THE QUICKSET DATE: is operated with the crown with which you also set the time and if needed wind the movement. The screw-down crown when pulled out has distinct positions and is easy to maneuver.
THE SUB-SECOND is on top of the Moon Phases and the seconds track encircles the Moon Phases like a silver frame.
THE MOON PHASES function, if set properly does not need to be adjusted in 122 years! To set it correct you have the pusher on the upper left hand side.
Please use a wooden toothpick or something that do not leave a mark. I did not receive the box with the watch so I do not know if a tool is included or not…
As I am right handed, it felt a bit awkward to set the Moon Phases with my left hand; if setting the Moon Phases with my right hand I would have to look at the watch upside down… Lucky it will be 122 years to the next time!
THE GMT is easily operated by the pusher at four o’clock. One direction only, so make sure not to push one too many and you will have to start over again!
The combination of complications is perfect to match the name of the watch: TRAVELLER!
THE CASE: this part is the one that surprised me the most about this watch.
The 44 mm case is big, not huge but big. My initial thought after seeing this watch both at SIHH and Basel was that I would love to see this watch a tad smaller… Maybe 41 – 43 mm…
What I discovered after looking past the size in millimeters was how sensual the case really is!
In photos it is easy to focus on the wide bezel and the long lugs… What may not be very obvious is the shape of the sides of the watch!
- “What about it, it is a round watch, right”…? Yes, the Traveller case is round if you look on the dial side. But if you have a look from the side or from the back…
On both sides of the watch and the case is beautifully curved! The case sides and lugs create a rolling, flowing landscape of beautiful brushed surfaces.
Both sides and lugs are tapered inwards so the watch diameter on the back is significantly smaller than the 44 mm at the bezel.
THE STRAP: the Traveller comes with a black alligator strap. The strap is very nice looking and in high quality, but like all new straps it is quite stiff. The feel is more like a bracelet than a strap. The strap softened a bit during the time I was wearing the watch but I guess will take some time before it becomes really soft and supple to wear…
THE FOLDING BUCKLE: the new type with safety lock that you have to undo by pushing on both sides of the lock at the same time. The buckle is easy to operate and to adjust the strap length. Strong, safe and good looking, but quite big.
THE ON THE WRIST EXPERIENCE: personally I am not much for bracelets and prefer a tapered strap which is not used on the Traveller. This in combination with that I normally wear my watch quite low on the wrist (below the wrist bone) made me struggle first day of wearing…
Once I moved the watch above the wrist bone which I did out of necessity due to the case size everything came in place!
Just to try a watch and place it differently than you are used to is not a big problem… But to go a whole day with the watch in the “wrong” place takes some willpower!
But once powering through it all made sense! The case size, the lug lengths, the curves on the back of the watch which allows your wrist move freely.
To wear this watch is a pure pleasure! The presence on the wrist, the play of the dial!
For me this watch gets 4.5 out of 5! What would have made this watch get full pot would be if one or two millimeters smaller size and with a softer strap/smaller buckle.
Hope you enjoyed this “On the Wrist Experience”!
And again, a BIG thank you to Girard-Perregaux for making this possible!
Best
Blomman
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-08-04 14:29:47The Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 line, introduced in 1994, draws inspiration from historical models, specifically a 1945 Art Deco piece. This collection is characterized by its rectangular or tonneau-shaped cases and a design language that evokes mid-20th century aesthetics. The Vintage 1945 series quickly became a cornerstone of Girard-Perregaux's offerings in the 1990s, reinterpreting classic forms with contemporary watchmaking standards. It represents a significant period for the brand in re-establishing its heritage-inspired collections.
Early models in the Vintage 1945 series typically featured stainless steel cases, though gold variants were also produced. The case dimensions varied depending on the specific model, often presenting a balanced profile suitable for dress wear. These watches were frequently equipped with automatic movements, showcasing Girard-Perregaux's in-house capabilities or finely finished outsourced calibers. The crystal was commonly sapphire, ensuring durability and legibility, while water resistance was generally suitable for daily wear rather than aquatic activities.
For collectors, the Vintage 1945 series appeals to those interested in neo-vintage watches that successfully blend historical design with modern execution. The 1994 introduction year marks it as one of the earlier and more influential lines from Girard-Perregaux's resurgence in the 1990s. Its various iterations, including time-only, small seconds, and later complicated versions, offer a range of choices for enthusiasts seeking a distinctive rectangular watch with a clear lineage.
what a wonderful read and I can underline every sentence. While I only had the pleasure to try on the watch for a short time, I totally echo your experience. For me, the most desiring modern GP (at least for mortals like me), because of the dial and the case. My favourite remains the white dial, but very glad there is a choice for everyone's taste. In every sentence we can read the pleasure you had wearing the watch! CC
Yes, this watch was a great pleasure to try out. And I think the dial layout and the case design is just perfect! :) Yes, luckily GP offers a Traveller for everybody's taste! Best Blomman
a superb read & splendid pics ; have bookmarked this comprehensive but thoroughly written piece ! Especially liked the paradigm of the four different dials & your pics to underline that !! You know, that this one is really an absolute top spot in my GP desires. - Have just to work on an opportunity for the real life test, as soon as they become available at the AD\'s or Boutiques.. Thx for this wonderful pictorial - a true keeper article ! Very Best, hs PS: 3 little Qs: 1/ is it known, when they
But the case.... Best, Nicolas
Than it looks in photos.... The size, may be a problem, but the shape of the case is top! :) Best Blomman
That I know of! But compared with other brands that you are very familiar with... The total production is probably less than many of their "Limited Editions".... About the dial - yes, the play of the dial is just amazing! Love it! Will drive you mad.... ;) Will send PM tonight when I am back home... Best Blomman
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