Girard-Perregaux Le Corbusier Trilogy
Manufacture

Girard-Perregaux Le Corbusier Trilogy

By foversta · Dec 1, 2012 · 11 replies
foversta
WPS member · Girard Perregaux forum
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Foversta's insightful review of the Girard-Perregaux Le Corbusier Trilogy delves into how these three watches honor the architect's legacy by mirroring his creative process. This 2012 article highlights the Manufacture's commitment to craftsmanship and artistic expression, demonstrating a subtle alchemy between architecture and watchmaking. It provides a detailed look at how Girard-Perregaux transformed basic materials into art pieces, celebrating Le Corbusier's 125th birth anniversary.

The Le Corbusier trilogy  is much more than a simple tribute to the famous architect. Through these 3 watches created in association with the Fondation Le Corbusier to celebrate the 125th anniversary of his birth, Girard-Perregaux has wished to highlight the crucial stages of his career by adapting a creative process similar to that of the artist in order to promote the work of craftsmen of the Manufacture. The Le Corbusier trilogy is a point of meeting of two worlds, those of architecture and watchmaking, whose principles remind us that even the simplest, the most basic materials, contribute to the creation of an artpiece when they are fashioned and used with talent and inspiration.

Designing such  trilogy was not an easy task because it was needed to avoid that one of the two worlds should take precedence over the other. A subtle alchemy was required and Girard-Perregaux has been able to find the good "dosage" in order that the trilogy watches embody the spirit of le Corbusier without losing the characteristic features of the production of the Manufacture... and vice versa.


Vintage 45 La Chaux-de-Fonds:







In this context, the use of the same case is an excellent idea (only its material is changing). The case sets the stage on which the craftsmen  express their skills and it was important to have a common  landmark in order to properly perceive and feel the aesthetic differences caused by the dials artistic techniques.

Choice was made to use the 1945 Vintage rectangular, almost square (36.2 x 35, 25 mm) case. This is a good choice for several reasons. First of all, its shape makes us think about a  picture frame so that when the three watches are side by side, we have the impression to visit a small exhibition. The simplicity of this shape is more consistent with the spirit of the "purism" which took place during the first part of Le Corbusier's carreer and whose aim was  to embody a return to more organized structures. Then its size is harmonious. Neither too large nor too small, it enhances the dials unless the latter become too large which would have removed the refinement and the subtlety of the artistic approach. Finally, the case and glass curves bring a certain dynamism and accentuate the artistic dimension by the slight decline of the dial that they create.

Vintage 1945 Paris:






The movement is common to the three watches. It is not surprisingly the GP3300 which has a  4 Hz frequency  and a 46 hours power reserve. It is a movement that I appreciate a lot thanks to its high winding efficiency. It is visible in each watch through a sapphire located on the caseback. It is very classically presented, finished in a very sober way. The reference of the watch is indicated on the Sapphire: 125th anniversary and the specific city. I would have preferred to find such reference on the case or even possibly on a solid and engraved caseback.

The GP3300 movement:





The three stages of Le Corbusier carreer which are the sources of inspiration of the trilogy wzere clearly marked by the environment of their times, the artistic trends in which he was involved and by arts and crafts that he practiced. Multifaceted artist, Le Corbusier is mainly known as an architect as his most famous works remain the housing units created thanks to the Modulor process and principle. This principle allowed, including through the use of the golden ratio, determine the ideal dimensions of the living space in order to ensure maximum comfort to its occupants. It is also interesting to note that the golden ratio is regularly used in watchmaking, always in the search for harmonious proportions... like architecture.

Vintage 1945 Marseille:






However, it would be an error to reduce Le Corbusier to this single dimension. The trilogy, opportunely gives keys to understand his career and his artistic evolution.

The first watch, the Vintage 45 La Chaux-de-Fonds, reminds us of his  training period as engraver and sculptor at the Art School of his hometown. The inlaid mother-of-Pearl Dial, which requires 7 days of work, reproduces a pattern that had been designed and engraved on a pocket watch case  by le Corbusier during his training period. So, it makes sense to find it on a dial a century later!

The pattern represents a bee which is a very dear theme to La Chaux-de-Fonds. In fact, the coat of arms of the city features a beehive symbolizing its industrial vocation. The integrity of the 5 color codes of the original pattern was an extremely difficult challenge for the craftsmen of the Manufacture. But such effort was rewarded. The dial of the Vintage 45 La Chaux-de-Fonds surprises with its beauty, by the shades of light that it creates, by its depth and subtlety. Without a doubt, this watch is the most refined of the three and for me the most seductive. The Pink Gold case marries perfectly with the dial and brings an extra touch of warmth. Once put on the wrist, the elegance of this watch and the numerous details of the dial give it an undeniable charm.









The second watch plays another tune and causes a clear aesthetic break with the previous one. The engraved metal dial is an interpretation of the Modulor. Perfectly executed and at the same time very discreet, it seems to fade into the watch for two reasons: the low contrast with the steel case and of course the exuberance of the cowhide strap. In fact, the Vintage 45 Paris is inspired by a 1928 rocking chair. Due to its very special bracelet, it is the most original of the trilogy and the most difficult to wear on a daily basis. Of course, the bracelet could be changed but this would break the consistency of the watch and the reminder of the interaction between the Modulor system and the design of decorative arts objects sought by Le Corbusier. As such, the Vintage 45 Paris should be worn as it is.












The third watch is the most surprising even if paradoxically, the theme that inspired it, the CitΓ© Radieuse, is perhaps the best-known Corbusier work. For our deepest pleasure, Girard-Perregaux has not hesitated to make a concrete dial!

The dial requires 3 days of work to be poured, dried and hand finished. It has an unusual grey/green color, a strange beauty: it is irregular, full of rough edges and it seems sometimes to even overflow... these properties at the end make it so unique, so enigmatic. The Vintage 45 Marseille may have a very simple style at first glance  (steel case, black crocodile leather strap) but turns out to be a watch with a strong character reinforced by the engraved Modulor in the concrete.









Each of these three watches, despite the same case, has very clearly its own style. The success of the trilogy is this balanced mix between common background and opposition of style, artistic and horological interests. The trilogy was presented during the last quarter of 2012  in a limited series of 5 sets of 3 watches. I perfectly understand the pleasure that the owner of a set can feel: by opening and gazing its contents, he scans several decades of the career of one of the major artists of the 20th century.

I would like to thank the Girard-Perregaux France team for its warm welcome in the Salon Belles Montres 2012.

Fx

About the Girard-Perregaux Ref. Vintage1945

The Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 line, introduced in 1994, draws inspiration from historical models, specifically a 1945 Art Deco piece. This collection is characterized by its rectangular or tonneau-shaped cases and a design language that evokes mid-20th century aesthetics. The Vintage 1945 series quickly became a cornerstone of Girard-Perregaux's offerings in the 1990s, reinterpreting classic forms with contemporary watchmaking standards. It represents a significant period for the brand in re-establishing its heritage-inspired collections.

Early models in the Vintage 1945 series typically featured stainless steel cases, though gold variants were also produced. The case dimensions varied depending on the specific model, often presenting a balanced profile suitable for dress wear. These watches were frequently equipped with automatic movements, showcasing Girard-Perregaux's in-house capabilities or finely finished outsourced calibers. The crystal was commonly sapphire, ensuring durability and legibility, while water resistance was generally suitable for daily wear rather than aquatic activities.

For collectors, the Vintage 1945 series appeals to those interested in neo-vintage watches that successfully blend historical design with modern execution. The 1994 introduction year marks it as one of the earlier and more influential lines from Girard-Perregaux's resurgence in the 1990s. Its various iterations, including time-only, small seconds, and later complicated versions, offer a range of choices for enthusiasts seeking a distinctive rectangular watch with a clear lineage.

Specifications

Caliber
GP3000
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
28mm x 28mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
DX
dxboon
Dec 1, 2012

These Le Corbusier watches really caught my attention when they were released. Your pictures in particular, showcase a lot of the wonderful detail inherent on these dials. The concrete variant remains the most interesting to me. I love the texture of the dial and its subtle color. Thank you for the magnificent article! Cheers, Daos

OP
Ophiuchus
Dec 1, 2012

Rarely do I see a watch so beautiful I'm just stunned when I see it. That geometric abstract mother-of-pearl dial is simply exquisite! I would love an article on how they did the inlay of the mother of pearl for these dials, I've never seen anything like it before- and it really is stunning. Within the top 3 most beautiful watch dials I've ever seen. I want. I want BAD.

AM
amanico
Dec 1, 2012

Pleasant confirmation of the sztrong appeal of these two watches. I don't know which one to choose as my favourite. Getting both would be the solution. The cold lok of the concrete or staninless steel dial combined to the sensual profile of the case makes these 2 watches very attractive. I would have opted for a solid case back, though, but this is not the detail which would make me not consider this watch. Bravo, G.P. Nicolas

FO
foversta
Dec 2, 2012

It was a pleasure for me to write it. The 3 watches of the Trilogy were the must-see of the Salon Belles Montres! Fx

FO
foversta
Dec 2, 2012

This movie gives you some clues: Enjoy it! Fx

FO
foversta
Dec 2, 2012

After having handled them, it was a confirmation for me: the La Chaux-de-Fonds watch is my fav one and it was already my feeling when I read the press release. The concrete dial creates an unique atmosphere for sure. Thanks. Fx

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