Foversta's tribute to Gérald Genta, following the designer's passing, offers a unique perspective by focusing on the Gérald Charles Maestro Tourbillon Carrée. This article highlights a lesser-known but equally significant chapter in Genta's career, showcasing his continued innovation and design philosophy beyond his more famous works for other brands. Foversta's personal connection as a former Gérald Genta forum moderator lends authenticity to this exploration of Genta's later independent creations.
I was very saddened by the announcement of Gerald Genta's death. I would like to pay a modest homage to his eternal talent with this article.
I could write a few lines about this one:
But the Royal Oak owners would speak better about it.
I'm in a better position to speak about this one:
After all, I'm a former Gerald Genta forum moderator and I know very well the Fantasy collection. Or an article about of one of the first Gefica and the story behind would be a good idea too.
But I wished to present you another side of his career.
I see two paradoxes with Gerald Genta. He is better known for the watches he created for third party brands rather for himself and his iconic watches are mainly two or three hands watches. Gerald Genta loved the complicated watches and it is not accident that the 1994 Grande Sonnerie was in this time the most complicated wristwatch with a movement composed by more than 1.000 parts.
It is the reason why I would like to present you this Gerald Charles Maestro Tourbillon Carrée: the watch features one of his favourite complication, the Tourbillon and his signature is engraved on it...
Gerald Genta, it is obviously an unique talent but it is also an energy... and a very sharp business acumen.Let's imagine the context. Gerald Genta sold his eponymous company in 1998. Three years later, he launched (when he was 70!) a new company, Gerald Charles, whose name is composed by his two first names.
The Maestro Tourbillon Carree was unveiled 5 years later. The purpose of this watch was to propose a new way to create a skeletonized watch.
When we have a first look at it, it seems very far from the purety of the dials of the Royal Oak or of the Nautilus. But very quickly, some common points (we can call them the Genta style) appear...
Look at the two-bodies case: it has a very geometrical shape and the way the upper bezel follows its curves is very typical to Genta's style. Case is almost a square one (with a 44x42mm size, carré means square in french). Look at the caseback: don't you think that its eight sides and screws make it quite similar to the Royal Oak caseback? Look at the crown: it is an unusual one with "clous de Paris". But Genta always liked crowns with this kind of little dots which made them so original... and more user friendly for a better winding performance. Look at the two Alpha-hands? Don't you think that, despite their different shape they are close to the Royal Oak or the Nautilus hands?
Without any doubt, we are in front of a Gerald Genta watch!
Even if the work on the case is original, with a big care of the details, the most impressive execution was done, IMHO, on the finishings of the movement. Because the job done on the movement is a true designer achievement.
Frankly speaking, the Maestro Tourbillon Carrée makes me think about the RM012. It is not a true skeletonized watch i.e specific finishings done on a classic movement. The movement by itself features an original architecture. Its key parts seem to be linked by thin and luminous bridges which give a feeling of lightness.
Front side, we are hypnotized by the flying Tourbillon revolution located on the foreground. I really like the contrast between the curves of the bridge around the crown and the straight bridges at the top left corner (they almost look like a web). The logo of the brand is located on top of the dial. I also like the subtle minutes scale around the dial and the "oeil de perdrix" decoration.
As you can see it, the main plate is still solid and the movement was built around. Thanks to the dark colour of the plate, the readability has been preserved and even more interesting, the key parts of the movement are totally highlighted front and back side of the watch.
Let's talk a bit about this movement. It is a flying Tourbillon one created by BNB with the ref #1000. It has a 3 hz frequency and a power reserve of 5 days. Due to this large power reserve, it has a useful power reserve display located, in the context of the Maestro Tourbillon Carrée on the backside. This movement was also used by other brands like Romain Jérôme or Franc Vila. If I remember well, the power reserve display was located dial side with the Franc Vila. I prefer the solution used by Genta. The interesting point about this movement, besides the beauty of the flying Tourbillon and its 3 arms, is the differential system which improves the winding efficiency thanks to planetary gears. It is said by thanks to this system, you only need a third part of the usual number of crown turns to fully wind the watch. The BNB1000 also features a balance wheel with counterweights (masselottes) and a flat hairspring.
When I look at the back of the watch, I really like the contrast between the large Tourbillon bridge, a huge horizontal rod, and the interlacing of the bridges on top of the movement.This is a quite busy atmosphere but each detail is clearly visible thanks to the solid plate. Moreover, there is a feeling of volume, of depth which makes it even more impressive. This unusual architecture is a true joy for our eyes. We clearly see the difference between a skeletonized movement and a movement which was designed to get this lay-out.
When I put the watch on the wrist, I felt mixed emotions which... gave it a lot of charm. There is a clear contrast between the heavy platinum case and the very delicate if not fragile aspect of the movement and of the Tourbillon. And... what a relief: no hair is visible through the dial... the beauty of the work on the movement is preserved.
I will not tell you that, considered as a whole, I find this watch "beautiful" because it won't be the truth. The unusual caseshape, the hands design, the crown create a sort of strange beauty which require a period of habituation to be really appreciated. But we couldn't expect less with a Gerald Genta watch: it is never a love at first sight, it is more a long term charm revealing...
The slender Gerald Genta signature is engraved on the upper-right corner. Gerald Genta was one of the very few designers who was able to have such privilege... but I really find this signature useless. His true signature was his talent and it will forever stay in the heart of the watches fans and collectors. Simple or complicated watches, created for his own companies or for other brands, Gerald Genta was a designer without any compromise, with a very daring attitude. Let's imagine a few seconds the scandal in the 80's when he unveiled a watch with a Mickey Mouse on the dial. We all know that Gerald Genta invended the concept of the Stainless Steel luxurious watch. But it also gave the proof that a high-end watch could be also FUN. The creativity of the present time would have never be possible without the first steps done by Gerald Genta who woke up and shaked the whole watches industry. His influence goes beyond his creations.
I would like to thank a lot the Montres Prestige Boutique in Geneva for the warm welcome.
Fr.Xavier
PS: if I'm not wrong, the Maestro Tourbillon Carrée was sold with an oil painting by Gerald Genta. Painting was his other great passion and the Gerald Charles brand was created also to give him the ability to combine all his artistic works.
