First Patek Philippe: Navigating the 5231J, 5236P, and 5327G
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First Patek Philippe: Navigating the 5231J, 5236P, and 5327G

By JoshTheCanadian · Apr 22, 2021 · 28 replies
JoshTheCanadian
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JoshTheCanadian, a long-time reader and first-time poster, shares his journey to acquire his inaugural Patek Philippe. After a hiatus from collecting, he outlines his criteria for a horologically significant complication, emphasizing wearability and a preference for thinner, smaller cases. His detailed consideration of the Ref. 5231J, 5236P, and 5327G offers a valuable framework for collectors navigating a similar high-stakes decision.

Very, very long-time reader, and I believe first-time poster.

I took an extended break from purchasing watches, in an effort to enjoy the watches that are already in my collection (a JLC dress watch, a Rolex Submariner, a Speedmaster Professional, and others), but I have decided to come out of retirement.

I short, I have always wanted a Patek and my next watch will be a Patek.  I doubt that anything else can scratch the itch.  I would like something more than a simple Calatrava - a complication is a necessity.  Further, I would like something that is horologically meaningful to Patek - in other words, I am not interested in, say, the pilot's watch.  I do not want to buy used, but am OK going grey (my AD sucks).

Strong wearability is a must for me.  I'd prefer something that is on the thinner side and the smaller side.  My wrists are 7", and I do not like to go too big.  I often wear suit and tie for work, but also dress very casually at other times.  That said, I have no qualms wearing a dress watch with a t-shirt, shorts, and sneakers.

At this point, I am vacillating between three watches, specifically, Refs. 5231J, 5236P, and 5327G.  I'd be interested in hearing thoughts and, if anyone has any tips on how to make this kind of decision, I would love to hear those as well.

There is a strong likelihood that this will be my only Patek.  After this, I'm interested in a Lange - most likely, an 1815 up/down.  Thereafter, I want to go back to collecting watches in a more reasonable price range, and focusing on my other hobbies.  In any events, some of my thoughts are set forth below...


5231J - I love this complication, I love the romanticism of the dial, and I love the size.  I'm a wee bit skeptical of the YG, but I do think it is a great color with the cloisonne dial.  Perhaps my biggest reservation with this one is, perhaps, it does not feel that youthful?  (I'm a younger guy).  Also, I am not too excited about how I surmise I will be purchasing this watch (i.e., paying above MSRP at a grey dealer).  I have some ideas for how I may convince my AD to sell me one (i.e., other watches, diamond earrings for wife, etc.), but my AD is a jerk.



5236P - Honestly, this watch is just about perfect - my only reservation is with the size!  Going to see if I can try it on at my AD (funny/sad story:  I have probably spent over $30k at this AD, and I called asking if the new Patek novelties came in; person I spoke to said she couldn't tell me one way or the other whether they had come in; she said if I stopped by and provided my name she may be able to tell me; I asked whether I could provide my name over the phone; she said no, she was unwilling to do that).  This kind of epitomizes what I am looking for - something horologically meaningful, with an interesting design, and a beautiful movement.  Again, however, I do have some reservations about the size.



5327G - I go back and forth on this one.  Some days, I love it.  Other days, I wonder whether the breguet numerals were the right call!  I love the size of this one, and the Cal. 240Q.  I also love that I can buy this for a significant discount.  But perhaps that is not the best reason to buy it!

About the Breguet Classique Ref. 5327

The Breguet Classique reference 5327 represents the Date Moonphase series within the model range, distinguished by its combination of calendar and lunar phase complications. This reference positions itself as a dress watch offering within the Classique lineup, incorporating both practical and astronomical display functions.

The watch features a 39mm case constructed from 18k white gold, fitted with a sapphire crystal and fixed bezel configuration. The silver dial houses the date and moonphase displays, while an automatic movement provides the mechanical foundation. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, suitable for daily wear scenarios.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a complications-focused dress watch in precious metal construction. The 39mm case size accommodates contemporary sizing preferences while maintaining formal proportions. The white gold case material and silver dial combination creates a monochromatic aesthetic that suits both the Date Moonphase series identity and broader Classique collection positioning.

Specifications

Caliber
591DRL
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
GL
GLau
Apr 22, 2021

enamel Worldtime is a special and iconic ! However, I am biased because I am the enamel “slave” ! Good luck with your decision whether it will be 5231 or otherwise. Let us know what yiu decide and we look forward to your wrist shot !

GI
GirlAndHerWatches
Apr 22, 2021

I would make the exception and get both the world timer and new perpetual, I really like 5320G as well but might be going against your blue dial choices.

CA
captainbob
Apr 22, 2021

A very nice shortlist. All are great choices. 5231 and 5327 are at opposite ends of the availability spectrum. 5231 is an application piece and will be impossible to get at Msrp from an AD without a big purchase history. 5327 like you say should not involve too much of a search. 5236 is interesting - I expect supplies will be limited at first. Of the 3 above my choice is easy 5231 every day - but you need to consider if you only have one Patek whether this is the one. Others maybe to consider...

CH
chris7509
Apr 22, 2021

Welcome here ... i believe the most important points have been shared already. 5231 and in general the enamel familiy are a hard drug if you get hooked on it .. Around availabilities, if you are not a "known" customer i do not believe you will have a chance to get the 5231=> that one you will have to pay probably above MSRP. 5327 is the contrary i believe that most of AD(s) will be happy to sell it, may be with a small discount also The new QP reference, you might try as even for a "new" custome

FA
FabR
Apr 22, 2021

Between the three watches you mentioned, my favorite are definitely the 5231 and 5236, by a long shot. To be as usual honest and direct, however, it's extremely difficult to be allocated a 5231 as a first-time Patek customer, irrespective of whether a given AD is a jerk ;-) Also, on a more subjective note, I would *never* pay a watch one cent above retail -- ever. Of course, as a consequence, this would virtually eliminate the 5231 from my short list, at least for the time being. As for the 5236

JO
JoshTheCanadian
Apr 22, 2021

I have been leaning heavily towards the 5321, but, like others have said, I have full knowledge that I will not be allocated one of them. Nonetheless, while I am typically opposed to paying one red cent above MSRP, I think I could stomach the grey market premium in this instance. Specifically, if grey market prices hold, I could probably get one for near $100k, and if I bought it from my AD, I'd be looking at close to $90k with sales tax. It kills me to pay a 10% premium, but I think I can stoma

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