Doxa SUB 300 50th Anniversary Review

For me the Doxa SUB 300 is the single most influential diver tool watch. No other watch screams tool watch as much as a Doxa sub. In one single reference the Doxa SUB 300 and 300T hold so many revolutionary design features that influenced the watch industry and the way we perceive todays watches. Quite an accomplishment for a relatively small company with little to no experience in the field of diving watches before the early 1960’s. I am very lucky to own a few of the original Doxa SUB 300 no-Ts but jumped to the opportunity when I read about the re-release 50th anniversary model. This will allow me to take my favorite watch model diving without the risk of damaging irreplaceable parts. Unlike my vintage watches, of which some have amazing history from their former owner, with this watch I have the opportunity to make my own history. 

Some people asked me is this a serious contender for a vintage SUB 300 no-T? Yes and no. 

The time keeping of this watch and it’s COSC movement is far superior to the originals, ETA based, Doxa 118 movement. The wearability is as can be expected from a modern watch. The crystal of the new watch is a magnificent piece of work since it is sapphire where the original crystal was acrylic. The shape of the new crystal I will say is spot on with the original. It catches a lot more light than the original but because it is thicker there is more distortion on the side of the dial, especially if looking at it from above. I like it tough because this is what gives the watch that true vintage feeling. The signature, Doxa first, orange dial looks very clean. It’s color is brighter than the original one. If you have them side by side, this shows very hard in the pics, the new dial looks almost day glow. The original orange is darker and has that fat depth that comes with the lacquer of the past. 

The main difference for me now that I have the watch is the hand set. The watch, like all Doxa’s, has a dwarf hour hand and the fat minute hand. There is more lume on the second hand than on the original which is consistent with all Doxa’s released after 1968 as is the second hand. In my opinion they missed an opportunity with the second hand. The Basel 2016 Prototype had a different second hand with a larger square lume filled block on the second hand. For me this design feature was the detail that payed tribute to the original block hand while keeping with the need for a lumed second hand. Unfortunately the second hand did not make it into production, probably because of the fragile nature of the frame holding the lume. The quality and finish of the case is second to none and I especially like the original screw down crown with the Doxa logo. Details, details.

So what about the bracelet. I instantly disliked the size of the bracelet when I saw the pictures of Basil World. Now that I received the watch the bracelet is not as bad as I expected. The finish of the bracelet and the solid end links is very good. The bracelet has a taper to it like the Doxa bracelets from the Synchron era (1970’s). The No-T’s and first 300T models also had some taper but not extending over the lugs of the watch. A 60’ v.s. 70’s thing. The core on the bracelet at the clasp in this case is 20mm as is the lug width. Tapering the bracelet in this case meant extending it over the 20mm lugs at the watch end.