Independents
Ed. W recounts a highly anticipated visit to the De Bethune boutique in Geneva, offering a firsthand account of the brand's distinctive watches. This article highlights the unique aesthetic and technical characteristics that make De Bethune a standout independent watchmaker, from their highly polished titanium cases to innovative lug designs and advanced movement components.
De Bethune's watches have fascinated me for a long time, but for various reasons I had been unable to personally handle any of their pieces. Since I’m in Geneva, I decided to go by their boutique on La Place Longemalle. Store manager Kevin Bega was an excellent host and showed me plenty of De Bethune’s offerings. For a brand that produces around 400 pieces a year, it had a lot to offer, both aesthetically and technically.
Several things stood out to me about the watches. The first is how highly polished the titanium for many of the cases was, we usually see titanium as a dull sandblasted grey mass but De Bethune’s almost look like a combination of platinum and gunmetal. The second is how wearable its large 44mm and 42mm watches are, as an owner of 6.5-inch wrists, any number higher than 40mm is usually a good indication I shouldn’t even bother trying a watch on, but both the spring loaded lugs of the DB28 and the drop lugs of the DB25 Imperial Fountain Snake fit reasonably well. Other admirable characteristics include the black polished and interestingly shaped plates, round scale alligator lined straps (presumably by Camille Fournet), and use of silicum in the balance wheel and escapement and blued titanium for the 3D moon and other components.
I was glad to hear that the power reserve for most movements was 5 days (4 for the perpetual calendar). I’d perhaps like to see comfortable deployant clasps instead of the tang buckles, at least as an optional offering.
DB28 Skybridge movement
DB25 with power reserve (44mm)
DB28 Aiguille D’Or limited edition (42.6mm)
Movement of the DB28 Aiguille D’Or limited edition
DB16 Perpetual calendar Tourbillon Dead seconds (43mm)
DB25 Imperial Fountain-Sold in a set of 12 zodiacs. With mystery-style hands
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
I love DeBethune. The blue hues always captivate me and the perpetual calendar with the spherical moonphase is just magnificent.
Let me say first that your pictures are amazing, very bright and sharp. M. Bega is indeed a really nice DB ambassador. Thanks for sharing Ed. Mark PS: the DB25 pics is of the 40 mm version (PR integrated in the Hour ring and different hour hand base), not the 44 mm This is the 44mm :
I can't correct it now but if any moderators can, I'd appreciate it. Also, the firs photo is not the back of the sky bridge but rather the DB28T I believe. This was 3 weeks ago and my memory is a bit hazy. Glad you like the photos!
in first photo i s the DB25 Imperial Fountain.
It is great that you could have such a nice journey into the capitol of watches! Thanks, Ed! Ken
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