Independents
Mark in Paris introduces the De Bethune DBS Tourbillon, a limited edition celebrating the 10th anniversary of the original DBS. His post highlights De Bethune's continued innovation and commitment to unique design, showcasing how the brand evolves its iconic models while maintaining its distinctive aesthetic. This article provides an early look at a significant release from an independent watchmaker.
Ten years ago, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet decided to support
the Only Watch project – an auction placed under the patronage of Prince
Albert II of Monaco on behalf of research
into Duchenne Muscular dystrophy – by creating the first DBS, an incredibly high-tech model with an innovative design.
The white gold case of the DBS testified to
a new thought process undertaken by the brand founders in terms of
ensuring a wristwatch makes an ideally comfortable fit, and marked the
start
of in-depth work on forging a specific De Bethune functional aesthetic.
The cone-shaped lower lugs, along with the 12 o’clock crown, were
subtle details that counterbalanced the almost imposing size of the
model that measured 45 mm across at its widest point.
Continuing
this approach, the pivoting gold plate connecting the upper section of
the strap and the case middle was the forerunner of what would later
become known as floating lugs – a patented system featuring a
spring-type effect that helps adjust to the size of the wrist and its
movements.
To celebrate the 10th anniversary of this iconic model, De Bethune has equipped the DBS with its tourbillon, entirely emblematic of the extreme precision and performance of its in-house calibres.
A 30-second tourbillon features a high 36,000 vph
frequency ideal for a wristwatch and is amazingly light at 0.18 grams
for a total of 63 parts – of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001
g and the heaviest 0.0276 g. These important factors, guaranteeing the
precision and reliability of the mechanism despite the abrupt and random
nature of wrist movements, are made possible by the incorporation and
the underlying technical mastery of materials such as silicon and
titanium.
The dial providing a fascinating window onto DB2019
calibre reveals a wealth of technical and subtly decorated details. Held
by a finely titanium annular bridge, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock
performs an endlessly fascinating mechanical ballet. It appears to be
suspended in mid-air, standing out against the anthracite deltoid-shaped
bridges and delineating a time read-off
zone by means of spherical steel indicators hand-polished and blued using the age-old flame blueing technique.
Subtle touches of blue, cleanly-cut hands and hour-markers, shimmering
reflections playing across the materials, ruthenium-coated Côtes De
Bethune contrasting with silver-toned finish of
the minutes ring:
the aesthetic construction of the DBS built around the extreme technical
sophistication of the movement explores the technical and artistic
skills of the Manufacture and
celebrates ten years of exclusivity, excellence and beauty."
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
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... and I didn't like it on my wrist at all! But on the picture I really find this one looks good. It is the kind of brand about which you like or you hate the watches. For instance I'm not at all a fan of the DB22, DB24 and the last DB28 GS.... Cheers, Mark
becomes more and more artistic Slippery slope Thank you for the news Damjan
the "normal" ones and the "Metiers d'Art" as they call it. With the Mayan Underworld, Imperial Fountain, the White night (with enamel dial) and this one, they start to have quite a little array of artistic models. Cheers Damjan, Mark
this case was never my favourite but the pictures look promising. Thanks Mark. Mo
but on this picture it looks so beautiful... (even if it doesn't look good on my wrist from a DBD past experience). Cheers Mo, Mark
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