Coming Full Circle: Panerai's Evolving Sizing and Design Language
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Coming Full Circle: Panerai's Evolving Sizing and Design Language

By ifraher · Sep 25, 2023 · 23 replies
ifraher
WPS member · Officine Panerai forum
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In a compelling reflection, ifraher articulates a common collector's journey: an initial fascination with a brand, a period of exploration into diverse horology, and a 'coming full circle' return. His post on Panerai's evolving design language and sizing strategy resonates deeply, highlighting how brands can re-engage enthusiasts by adapting classic aesthetics to contemporary preferences and wrist sizes. This discussion explores the brand's past, present, and future through the lens of collector desires.

When I first became properly drawn to watches around 15 years ago Panerai were what really caught my attention, their aesthetic really spoke to me at the time. Like many collectors, the further into watches you get the more you tend to reject or avoid popular brands in favour of more individual interpretations. 

Over the past year or so i've been pulled back to Panerai when it seems for various reasons many are abandoning them, with their smaller sizing and subtly evolving design language I think my next acquisition could be a Panerai. They haven't made what I consider the sweet spot yet, but they are closing in...

My ideal is a Radiomir 1940 case as it feels to me like it has the best attributes of both main lines, 40-42mm, manually wound, time only, no date. If the were to employ some recent gradient dials, but not the case ageing it's a winner for me. I'm not sure they have the movement for this in their manufacture? 

Something like this at 42mm is my ideal. I don't think they are far away from creating it. I'll be keeping an eye on their output. 








About the Omega Planet Ocean Ref. Radiomir1940

The Radiomir 1940 reference, while sharing the Radiomir designation, represents a distinct evolution in case design, moving away from the wire lugs of earlier Radiomir models towards a more robust, integrated lug structure. This reference series bridges the aesthetic gap between the original Radiomir and the later Luminor cases, offering a unique profile that appeals to collectors seeking a blend of historical design cues and enhanced wearability. It is characterized by its cushion-shaped case with more pronounced, solid lugs, providing a different wrist presence compared to its predecessors.

Cases in this series are typically crafted from stainless steel, with some variations in precious metals. The case dimensions can vary, with models like the 992 featuring a 45mm diameter, and others like the 449 and 425 often presented in a 47mm size. The crystal is frequently made from Plexiglas, contributing to a vintage aesthetic and a warmer dial appearance. The movement type and power reserve are dependent on the specific caliber utilized within each individual reference under the Radiomir 1940 umbrella.

This particular reference appeals to collectors who appreciate the transitional design elements and the historical narrative embedded in its form. The absence of an SLC logo on some dials, as noted for the 449, is a detail often sought after by purists. The Radiomir 1940 line offers a variety of dial configurations and movement choices, making it a diverse and interesting segment for those exploring the brand's heritage beyond the more commonly encountered Luminor models.

Specifications

Caliber
P.3000
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
47mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
100 meters
Crystal
Plexiglas

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
BL
blau
Sep 25, 2023

I can't stop staring at the 587 and 662, but at 47mm, they just don't work for me. A 42mm version would be an immediate buy. Such a watch would have previously been unthinkable for them, but is now absolutely in the line of things they seem to be doing, so I have hope too. I would *especially* love it if they could give it a big plexiglass crystal, but that might be too much to hope! And they do have the movement for it! I don't remember what they call it but it's the handwind time only they put

IF
ifraher
Sep 25, 2023

I simply cannot wear a 47mm watch, if it was a grand complication I can understand but with so little going on visually the more compact the better. 42mm is still an imposing form given the sparsity and case thickness. I feel they are already implementing this approach with the Radiomir's from this year but at 45mm are still too large for me.

IF
ifraher
Sep 25, 2023

Things could get really interesting then.

SU
Subexplorer
Sep 25, 2023

... there exist a large market of possible buyers who love their classic designs but don´t buy 47mm watches due to their personal tastes or small wrists. To capture this segment of market Panerai has been launching their smaller sized lines some time ago, and I feel that sooner or later they will offer a watch like the one you are looking for. They already have the case and also have the manual movement: P-1000 hand winding. I bought a Pam 933 a few years ago for my wife: an special Boutique edi

VI
vitalsigns
Sep 25, 2023

My wrists are not small (7.25 inches), but 45mm or 47mm is just too big for my comfort and simply too unsubtle. Cheers, John

SE
sergio
Sep 25, 2023

...during the 15 years plus, I've been frequenting this forum. Naomi Campbell is 5' 10" tall. That's the ONLY size she comes in. To fantasize about a 5' or 5' 2" Naomi Campbell doesn't make sense to me. Should I be dreaming of a beautiful woman 5' or 5' 2" , Selma Hayek would perfect for me.

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