Manufacture
MTF celebrates 20 years of Chopard Manufacture by presenting his controversial 'Top Five L.U.C watches,' focusing on movements that marked significant milestones. His selection criteria prioritize historical impact and technical innovation, offering a unique perspective on the brand's horological journey.
Chopard Manufacture, Fleurier
As 2016 is the twentieth anniversary of Chopard Manufacture and the L.U.C Watch Collection, you can forgive my nostalgic and controversial objective to name the Top Five watches.
First, I have to define "Top" as specific movements that marked a significant milestone in L.U.C history. Since 1996, Chopard Manufacture has created 11 movement 'families' and nearly 90 variants.
L.U.C Movements
You may not see your favourite models like the L.U.C 1963 Chrono, L.U.C 150 All in One, L.U.C Louis Ulysse - The Tribute or L.U.C 8HF on the Top-5 list because they were low production or commemorative special editions.
Please read about previous L.U.C models in 'A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 7: Chopard Manufacture - First 20 Years'
L.U.C 1963 Chrono PuristS Edition 
L.U.C 150 All in One 
L.U.C 8HF
Apart from the technical specifications, I also factored in vital weighting points for milestones that have special meaning for Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Chopard Technical Development.
Thus, even though the L.U.C 1963 Chrono Steel PuristS Edition is seen more often on Mr Scheufele's wrist than the rose gold version, it doesn't make it on the final list.
TOP-5 L.U.C WATCHES
#1 L.U.C 1860 and the L.U.C 1.96 movement
L.U.C 1860
The L.U.C 1860 Chronometer takes top place not only because of the quintessential L.U.C design motifs but also because Mr Scheufele says so! It is his first L.U.C "baby" and has a very special place in all our hearts. It marks the triumph of Hope and Vision over Adversity; completely against the industry trend at that time.
It was the start of our marvelous twenty year journey through L.U.C Time. With precision that met chronometer standards, the micro-rotor charged two springs acting in parallel in both rotation directions, and two stacked barrels guaranteed a 70-hour power reserve for the L.U.C 1.96 movement, now renamed Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L.
L.U.C 1.96 Movement
#2 L.U.C Chrono One and the L.U.C 03.02-L movement
L.U.C Chrono One
Although other L.U.C watches were invented and manufactured earlier, the first L.U.C automatic chronograph has a very special place in Chopard's and Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele's hearts. For a sporting man enamoured with classic racing cars, the L.U.C Chrono One watch had to have the secret project codename - GT3. The self-winding L.U.C Calibre 03.02-L – equipped with a column wheel and flyback function – required 16,000 hours of intense R&D conducted by a 25-strong team. Its key innovations included a reset lever with supple hammers, automatic winding with a patented gearing device, as well as a sophisticated seconds-reset mechanism.
L.U.C 03.02-L movement
#3 L.U.C Lunar One and the L.U.C L.U.C 96QP movement
L.U.C Lunar One
This is known as the Presidents' watch inside Chopard, being the favourite daily watch of both Mr Karl Scheufele III and his son, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Of course, the fact that your humble PuristSPro CEO/President also wears a L.U.C Lunar One has nothing to do with it.
PuristS presented the 'PuristSPro Purity Prize' to Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Chopard Manufacture in 2009 for the exceptional work accomplished since its creation in 1996 and “the pursuit of perfection in an imperfect world”; particularly the L.U.C Lunar One.
PuristSPro Purity Prize
L.U.C 96QP movement
The renamed L.U.C 96.13-L calibre housed within the L.U.C Lunar One perpetual calendar watch is endowed with 70-hour power reserve. It drives the hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, a perpetual calendar with large twin-aperture date display at 12 o’clock, days of the week and 24-hour indication at 9 o’clock, as well as months and leap years at 3 o’clock.
According to the leap-year cycle, the moon phase indicator displays only 24 hours discrepancy from astronomic reality every 122 years and 45 days.
#4 L.U.C Quattro and the L.U.C 1.98 movement
L.U.C Quattro
This was the second movement developed at L.U.C and was crucial as the manual winding base movement, from which, spawned the Tourbillons, Regulators and Perpetual T watches.
The renamed L.U.C 98.01-L “Quattro” calibre has quadruple energy-storing barrels and a total 1.88 metres of springs that provide this 205-component movement with a very long 9-day power reserve. Officially, only 8 days are marked on the power reserve dial to ensure that winding is done before the precision of the watch fails on the 9th day. 
L.U.C 1.98 movement
#5 L.U.C Strike One and the L.U.C 96 SHT movement
L.U.C Strike One
L.U.C 96 SHT movement dial side
Ten years ago (2006), the first striking calibre in the L.U.C collection was launched. As the first foray into acoustic watches, musical technicians and watchmakers cooperated in creating the 300-component striking mechanism.
Now renamed the L.U.C Calibre 96.14-L, it allows the L.U.C Strike One to independently chime the number of hours on a gong. The acoustic performance may be deactivated at the press of a button.
L.U.C 96 SHT movement back
Chopard Manufacture
A journey of a thousand 'Li' begins with a single step. -- Confucius (Kong Fuzi) 孔子 551 - 479 B.C.
I am glad to have made the journey with Chopard and am a Contented Collector of both L.U.C and Classic Racing watches.
We have been witnesses to an amazing Journey through Time and look forward to more wondrous Happy Delights from the House of Chopard.
Dr Melvyn Teillol-Foo, 2016
The L.U.C 1860 reference is a notable offering within the L.U.C collection, distinguished by its focus on classical watchmaking principles and refined aesthetics. This particular model, introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023, represents a continuation of Chopard's commitment to high horology, emphasizing traditional craftsmanship and a discreet presentation. It is recognized for its balanced proportions and the integration of a finely finished movement, reflecting the brand's in-house manufacturing capabilities.
This reference features a case crafted from Lucent Steel, a proprietary alloy, measuring 36.5 mm in diameter. The watch is powered by the L.U.C 96.01-L automatic movement, which is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. This movement is equipped with a micro-rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. The dial is presented in a salmon color, complemented by a sapphire crystal on the front.
Appealing to collectors who value understated design and mechanical integrity, the L.U.C 1860 fits into the brand's lineup as a dress watch with significant horological merit. Its limited production and specific material choices contribute to its appeal among enthusiasts seeking a watch that combines traditional watchmaking with contemporary material science. The model is a testament to Chopard's ongoing development in its L.U.C range.
The EHdG pocket watch movement was designed for the School of Watchmaking in Geneva and did not appear in any large production series. The Tribute to Louis Ulysse for the 150th Anniversary of Chopard in 2010 was a special edition convertible pocket to wrist watch using a watch holder clamp and wrist strap invented by Karl Scheufele I, thus linking the EsZeHa company roots with Chopard company. I posted a consolation mention in my report. Regards, MTF
According to the interview video with Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard Manufacture has more to come. More L.U.C to expect Regards MTF
And for some inexplicable reason I am very partial to #2 of your 5 Thanks for putting this together!
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