Vintage
SJX presents a rare Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater from circa 1928, a historical timepiece that once set an auction record for Cartier wristwatches. This article delves into the watch's exquisite movement, its unique provenance, and its remarkable acoustic qualities, offering a glimpse into Cartier's early horological prowess.
This Tortue minute repeater wristwatch, c. 1928, from Cartier Paris is a small watch, at 30 mm wide and 33 mm long. It is cased in yellow gold and fitted with a modern lizard skin strap. A watch similar to this one, but dating from 1929, still holds the record for the most expensive Cartier wristwatch ever sold at auction when it hammered for CHF993,500 at Antiquorum in 2002.
The movement is a minute repeater calibre from European Watch & Clock Company (EWC), which obtained its movements from LeCoultre. Adjusted to 8 positions with wolf's teeth winding wheels and Breguet overcoil, it is a movement of peerless quality, equal to the absolute best of the period (Patek, Vacheron et al), as majority of the EWC movements were.
The back of the watch is engraved on the back:
A search online indicates Mr Audibert was a stockbroker with Gude, Winmill & Co. The Union Club on the other hand is one of the oldest men's clubs in the United States and one that has in the past counted amongst its members various illustratrious members of American society. click here for an NYT piece on the Union Club.
You can feel the history in a watch like this and it makes you ponder. With a watch like that and a membership of the Union Club, Mr Audibert must have been a fairly rich man. One wonders what Mr Audibert's reaction to the typographical error in the engraving was.
Pictured above with a contemporary Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph
And here with a modern Santos 100 XL
And for those wondering, the repeater still does sound fantastic after 80 years. It is loud, clear and resonant, though it strikes a bit quickly. Besides the lost arts of the gong alloy and repeater construction, another reason for the sound is the thinner and lighter case compared to modern repeater watches.
Beautiful as it is, this is an exceedingly rare watch. Only two have ever come up at auction and this is one of them. It is an almost sentimental reminder of Cartier's first golden age in watchmaking.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-11-05 09:36:04The Cartier Santos 100 was introduced in 2004 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the original Santos-Dumont watch. It represents a contemporary interpretation of the historic pilot's watch, featuring a larger and more robust case design compared to its predecessors. This model positioned itself as a sportier, more modern offering within the Santos collection, appealing to collectors seeking a bolder presence on the wrist while retaining the iconic square aesthetic.
The Santos 100 typically features a stainless steel or precious metal case, often with a brushed finish and polished bezel screws. Case dimensions vary, but common sizes include a large model around 51mm x 41mm. It is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, often a modified ETA caliber, providing reliable timekeeping. The crystal is usually sapphire, and water resistance is generally rated for daily wear.
For collectors, the Santos 100 is notable for its blend of heritage design with modern proportions and construction. It marked a significant update to the Santos line, moving towards a more substantial and contemporary aesthetic. Its robust build and versatile design made it a popular choice, bridging the gap between Cartier's dressier offerings and more overtly sporty watches.
A beautiful watch that is every bit as modern today as it was back in 1928. I have heard the present day Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater's chimes. I can only wonder if they match the original's chiming as well.
I have heard two samples of the modern version with the Renaud et Papi calibre, while it has a pleasant enough tone and is clear, it is not as loud as the vintage model. Like I wrote in my earlier post I suspect it has to do with the construction and heftiness of the case; the modern Tortue repeater is at least twice as heavy as the original. - SJX This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-11-05 23:28:00
I like loud and crisp minute repeaters. Amazing that the new Cartier minute repeater is water resistant. Not a lot of minute repeaters are fortunate enough to be water resistant. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the only one that comes to mind.
of the CPCP version. It's still a bit more robust, without being too large. GEO
and if only the engraver could spell! Must have had a Scottish accent for 'Ney York'. Great watch though. Thanks Andrew H
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