Manufacture
SJX provides a rare glimpse into the inner workings of the Cartier manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, offering a detailed look at their extensive capabilities. His initial report highlights the brand's commitment to in-house production and innovation, particularly within the 'Think Tank' department led by Carole Forestier. This early insight into Cartier's watchmaking prowess sets the stage for understanding their modern horological identity.
This is a brief report about my first day at the Cartier manufacture, live from a chilly La Chaux-de-Fonds. Located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Cartier manufacture is expansive and extremely capable. Literally an entire watch, save for sapphire crystals, can be made here. Typically components used are a mixture of outsourced and in-house production. For instance two thirds of hands come from Universo and Aiguilla while one third is made at La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Update: click here for an in-depth, 13-part report on the Cartier manufacture.
Beginning with where nearly all Cartier's technical geniuses reside, a department known as the Think Tank (yes, there is a pun on Tank). Headed by Carole Forestier, this occupies a floor on one wing. The Think Tank creates concepts from proposals put forward by the marketing team like: "We can a skeleton that is different from the rest."
A page from Carole’s notebook dated 2007 with the first sketch of the Santos skeleton movement
The concept from the Think Tank is then sent a committee for approval. Once a watch design is approved, several steps follow, one of which is the creation of plastic models printed by a three-dimensional printer.
Pierre Piffeteau, Customer Service Manager, with the 3D printer
Samples of plastic models
A fully fledged prototyping department, which has CNC milling and stamping machines and everything else, exists to create prototypes of watches.
Watch movements are also made in La Chaux-de-Fonds naturally in the movement component fabrication department.
A sample of components made at the manufacture, the baseplate for the Santos 100 skeleton is obvious
But beyond the production of parts for current movements, components for vintage Cartier watches are also produced for restoration work. Cartier can and will remake any part for a vintage Cartier timepiece – this is a remarkable commitment to customer service. At the time of my visit a balance wheel was being milled.
The screwed balance wheel being made for a restoration
Another enormous room at the manufacture contains 18 CNC machines dedicated to making bracelets and clasps. Besides the immense, dangerous looking machinery the smell of oil and slick floor is evidence that serious work is taking place.
These bracelet and clasp components are made by machine, but then finished by hand in several steps. The first step is shown below to remove the rough edges. Finer polishing is done later. The same applies for cases, machines first and then careful hand finishing.
Smoothing a raw component destined for the Santos 100 clasp
Cartier makes a third of its hands in-house. Stamping, polishing, bluing and application of Luminova are all done in a modest sized room. Below is a shot of the initial polishing of the raw hands after they are punched from a sheet of steel.
Mineral crystals are also made in-house. Most interesting is a gentleman who shapes the cut crystal by hand over a flame; the process heats the crystal so that it’s soft enough to be moulded into the required shape. The tortue perpetual calendar uses a curved mineral crystal for example.
One of the many steps in quality control at the manufacture is the use of high-speed cameras to record the motion of chronograph hands. These take several hundred frames per second and record the flexing of the chronograph hand as it resets.
An Olympus high-speed camera
Also done at La Chaux-de-Fonds is the manufacture of jewellery watches, including the incredible multi-million Euro sort, as well as enamelling. The photo below shows the high jewellery workshop on the right and the enamelling workshop, with three enamellers, at left.
More to come soon.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-07-11 23:00:13
The Cartier Santos 100 was introduced in 2004 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the original Santos-Dumont watch. It represents a contemporary interpretation of the historic pilot's watch, featuring a larger and more robust case design compared to its predecessors. This model positioned itself as a sportier, more modern offering within the Santos collection, appealing to collectors seeking a bolder presence on the wrist while retaining the iconic square aesthetic.
The Santos 100 typically features a stainless steel or precious metal case, often with a brushed finish and polished bezel screws. Case dimensions vary, but common sizes include a large model around 51mm x 41mm. It is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, often a modified ETA caliber, providing reliable timekeeping. The crystal is usually sapphire, and water resistance is generally rated for daily wear.
For collectors, the Santos 100 is notable for its blend of heritage design with modern proportions and construction. It marked a significant update to the Santos line, moving towards a more substantial and contemporary aesthetic. Its robust build and versatile design made it a popular choice, bridging the gap between Cartier's dressier offerings and more overtly sporty watches.
No message body
So I already asked for it. - SJX
I ask because it reflects into how much interest the company has into development of new and less costly drive trains, balances, case manufacture and copyright protection that is in house. It is also more impressive, at least to me, to see a company invest in academic fields that may/may not always lead to immediate profits...but to benefits on the long run for the overall industry. It is easier to make something exclusive with a big budget, but making it on a larger scale, even for Cartier, on
There is a sense of creativity and innovation at the manufacture that you do not expect at a company that sells a billion Euro of watches a year. And more importantly that translates in solid products like the Santos skeleton and also interesting concepts like the ID One. Contrast that with the historical departments of the company like the historical collection and you realise Cartier is an incredibly nuanced company that carefully balances art, history and of course commercialism. I have not s
your coverage has definitely increased admiration and respect of this watch house from this newbie. Realize now what a mistake to have overlooked this brand all these years, dismissed prematurely then as just a fashion watch/jeweler which sells a good volume of watches. I am now viewing them with renewed curiosity eyes and as such, am quite eager to learn more and scrutinize them more in the near future. Thanks for sharing the pics and GREAT job!!!
nt
2,645 Cartier listings are live on the eBay market and 184 collector listings on the WatchProSite marketplace.
This thread is active on the Cartier forum with 9 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
