In a fascinating exploration of mid-century horology, hmmmcamu delves into the distinct design characteristics of 1960s Bulova diver and field watches. This article highlights the unique aesthetic and functional elements that defined Bulova's offerings during a pivotal era for tool watches, providing valuable context for collectors and enthusiasts alike. hmmmcamu's detailed examination of the Bulova 666FEET Diver, model 511240, case ref# 386, offers a window into the brand's approach to robust and versatile timepieces.
BULOVA 666FEET Diver model # "511240" case ref# 386 circa: 1964 (M4)
Sometimes informally referred to as a "pre-Snorkel," this model is officially categorized as a Bulova Snorkel , marking the beginning of the series. It is part of Bulova’s early "Snorkel" line, which preceded the more widely known later models.
The Snorkel M4 was marketed to civilians but sold in PX/BX outlets , which catered to military personnel and their families. This distribution channel often leads to confusion about its status as a "military watch." However, unlike officially contracted watches (e.g., MIL-W-46374), the Snorkel was a commercial model adopted by individuals rather than issued by the Department of Defense.
Its 386 case design and 666-foot rating were part of Bulova’s marketing push into the growing dive watch market of the 1960s, competing with brands like Rolex, Zodiac and Doxa.
Engineered as a dual-purpose tool watch :
Diver : Waterproof to 666 feet (203 meters) , with luminous markers, a rotating elapsed-time bezel, and a screw-down case back.
Field Watch : Rugged construction, legible dial, and automatic movement made it ideal for military or outdoor use.
Case reference 386 and later iterations ...
Case ref.# 386 (only) is the base model, and later iterations are denoted by a dash and numeral (e.g., 386-3, 386-4, 386-5, 386-6 ). These suffixes indicate production evolution beyond the original 1964 version. A later version was introduced the same year of 1964 with a case ref.# stamped 386-1

18mm JB Champion USA ”Bullet" SS bracelet with non tapered solid links

Military tropical nylon utility strap for wrist watch and field compass use

18MM BEST FIT SWISS TROPIC MOD DEP diver strap with curved end