Bulova Vintage Diver & Field Watches (1960s)
Vintage

Bulova Vintage Diver & Field Watches (1960s)

By hmmmcamu · Feb 11, 2026 · 3 replies
hmmmcamu
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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In a fascinating exploration of mid-century horology, hmmmcamu delves into the distinct design characteristics of 1960s Bulova diver and field watches. This article highlights the unique aesthetic and functional elements that defined Bulova's offerings during a pivotal era for tool watches, providing valuable context for collectors and enthusiasts alike. hmmmcamu's detailed examination of the Bulova 666FEET Diver, model 511240, case ref# 386, offers a window into the brand's approach to robust and versatile timepieces.

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BULOVA 666FEET Diver  model # "511240" case ref# 386  circa:  1964 (M4)
Sometimes informally referred to as a "pre-Snorkel," this model is officially categorized as a Bulova Snorkel , marking the beginning of the series. It is part of Bulova’s early "Snorkel" line, which preceded the more widely known later models.
The Snorkel M4  was marketed to civilians but sold in PX/BX outlets , which catered to military personnel and their families. This distribution channel often leads to confusion about its status as a "military watch." However, unlike officially contracted watches (e.g., MIL-W-46374), the Snorkel was a commercial model  adopted by individuals rather than issued by the Department of Defense.
Its 386 case design  and 666-foot rating  were part of Bulova’s marketing push into the growing dive watch market of the 1960s, competing with brands like Rolex, Zodiac and Doxa.
Engineered as a dual-purpose tool watch :
Case reference 386 and later iterations ...
Case ref.# 386 (only) is the base model, and later iterations are denoted by a dash and numeral  (e.g., 386-3, 386-4, 386-5, 386-6 ). These suffixes indicate production evolution beyond the original 1964 version. A later version was introduced the same year of 1964 with a case ref.# stamped 386-1








18mm JB Champion USA ”Bullet" SS bracelet with non tapered solid links








Military tropical nylon utility strap for wrist watch and field compass use





18MM BEST FIT SWISS TROPIC MOD DEP diver strap with curved end

About the Bulova Diver

Bulova's dive watch program of the 1960s represented the brand's attempt to capture market share during the era's recreational diving boom. While Swiss manufacturers dominated the professional diving segment, American brands like Bulova positioned themselves as accessible alternatives for the growing consumer market. This particular example showcases the brand's interpretation of tool watch aesthetics, complete with the requisite rotating timing bezel and legible dial layout that defined the genre during its formative decade.

The technical execution reveals Bulova's house style of the period, with a gold-toned case construction and matching dial that prioritized visual cohesion over the stark contrasts favored by contemporary Swiss dive watches. The unidirectional rotating bezel features traditional minute markings, while the dial maintains clear Arabic numerals at cardinal positions. The date aperture at 3 o'clock reflects the era's emphasis on practical complications, though the overall finishing suggests this was positioned as a dress-oriented sports watch rather than a pure tool piece.

Within today's vintage market, 1960s Bulova dive watches occupy a distinct niche as affordable entry points into golden-age sport watch collecting. The brand's American heritage and accessible pricing have cultivated a dedicated following, though values remain modest compared to Swiss contemporaries. These pieces appeal particularly to collectors seeking period-correct aesthetics without the premium commanded by Rolex, Omega, or Seiko examples from the same era.

Specifications

Case
gold-tone
Dial
gold

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
GR
Gregineugene
Feb 12, 2026
You have some of the best examples of vintage watches on WPS.

Thanks for sharing all the pics and commentary.

MO
montres1
Feb 12, 2026
Really nice ! What a vintage, superb condition and lovely patina, thanks for sharing !

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