Bulgari 2014 Octo Finissimo and Velocissimo
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Bulgari 2014 Octo Finissimo and Velocissimo

By Kong · Jun 9, 2014 · 21 replies
Kong
WPS member · Bulgari forum
21 replies12258 views1 photos
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Kong provides a detailed first look at Bulgari's 2014 Octo collection, focusing on the Octo 38, Octo Finissimo, and Octo Velocissimo. He emphasizes the Octo's distinctive octagonal case, which blends Italian aesthetics with Swiss watchmaking prowess. The post particularly highlights the impressive Octo Finissimo, designed and manufactured entirely in-house, showcasing Bulgari's foray into ultra-thin horology.

The Octo, one of the mainstay of Bulgari watch-lines, has a surprise for many, entering into the arena of the ultra-thin.  The Octo is an octagonal watch based on certain geometry with a round bezel and many facets to have interesting light-play when the watch is viewed from different perspectives.  A product combining the boldness of Italian aesthetics with great Swiss watchmaking. Layout of the dial is minimalist, uncluttered with maximum of two numerals hour indexes.

Within this post, will cover three of the four Octos launched for 2014 - Octo 38, Octo Finissimo and Octo Velocissimo.  The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, probably the thinnest tourbillon at only 5mm total thickness, unfortunately was not present.

However, let starts with the impressive Octo Finissimo, fully designed and manufactured in-house from start to finish ...



Octo Finissimo comes in satin-brushed and polished diameter 40mm Platinum case, and a total height of 5mm.
Dial layout is clean, very few wordings and off-centred smal second at location 7:30H.


Crystal is anti-reflective coated to reduce glare.  Dial is of polish black lacquer with rhodium plated hands and hour indexes.


Now the sleek side profile of the Octo Finissimo.
Alternate polishing with various faceted steps accompanied by a Platinum crown with a black ceramic inlay.


A change in light play with just a change in viewing angle.

Though at the height of 5mm is not the thinnest among the Ultra-thins, it is still remarkable to be among the top ...
with the thinnest Piaget 900P at 3.65mm, JLC Ultra Thin Jubilee at 4.05mm and Piaget Altiplano Ultra Thin at 5.34mm.


The rhodium-plated hand is sort of dauphine type (as seen in above pic) which requires precision to fabricate, and difficulty level is increased with a hollow punch-out to skeletonise it.








Sapphire caseback displaying the Finissimo calibre measuring 2.23mm height by 36.60mm in diameter.  Beats at 4Hz and with a
power reserve of remarkable 70 hours, probably the highest among the Ultra-thins.


Power reserve indicator printed on a rotating black circular polished disc.
Bridges are decorated with vertical Côtes de Genève.
Casing is clearly marked water-resistant to 30m.


Just a comparison to the Singapore One-dollar coin at thickness of 2.40mm .


In press release, the Calibre Finissimo, is designed with 'potential for futher developments in mind' .  Probably an automatic version
with a micro-rotor (at the location of the power reserve indicator).


An exploded view of the Calibre Finissimo.


The front side of the platine (directly below the dial) is also decorated with perlage.


A wristshot ( on a friend's wrist) of Octo Finissimo with black alligator strap and platinum pin buckle.




Next the Octo Velocissimo ...


An Octo Chronograph, available in three versions - 18K pink gold case with leather strap and steel case with either leather or steel bracelet.

Diameter of case is 41.5mm.  Dial is of black polish lacquer and contrasting gilded hands and indexes.


18K gold screw-down crown with ceramic inlay at the side of the 13mm height case.


Pushers actuated horizontally (not at an angle) into the case, but the tactile is surprisingly smooth.


Transparent caseback displaying the 5 Hz El Primero movement with silicium escapement and a power reserve of 50 hours.




A cool wristshot.






Octo Solotempo


Octo Solotempo is a reduced diameter Octo at 38mm.  All the traits of the Octo like the sharp and faceted lines remains intact.
It comes in various versions with 18K pink gold or steel case with either leather strap or bracelets (in steel or gold).


Featuring here is the steel case with steel and gold bracelet and 18K gold crown with ceramic inlay.


Transparent screw-down caseback and the water-resistance is rated higher at 10 ATM, 100m.

The Calibre Solotempo is designed and manufactured in-house by BVLGARI. This will be the  base movement for other future developments.
The decorated movement beats at 4Hz and a power reserve of 42hours.  It also has stop-second when the crown is pulled for accurate time adjustment.


Bidirectional rotor is mounted on ceramic ball bearings.



A wristshot


BVLGARI is not only known for their daring designs, but also forefront and entrenched with highly complicated repeaters.
Indeed it is refreshing to see it pushes itself further with new calibres for its 130th anniversary year and entering the play-field of the Ultra-thin, making a mark with currently the thinnest tourbillon.




Kong






Related Reads:

1) Press release & specifications of Octo Finissimo





This message has been edited by Kong on 2014-06-16 20:07:24

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The Discussion
JR
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
Jun 10, 2014

The Octo Finissimo is really very elegant - both the case/dial and the movement. Very impressive and tempting indeed. I like it! cheers robin

MI
MichaelC
Jun 10, 2014

The watch and movement look quite nice.

RN
rnaden
Jun 10, 2014

I like the looks of all three models, and while being thin doesn't look overly dressy. The Solotempo appeals the most to me as the gold and white dial feels warmer. I also like the use of bridges for the balance in the movements. Thanks for sharing this. Richard

CA
CaliforniaJed
Jun 10, 2014

I've come to like these more and more over time. The movement aesthetics of the movements are not my favorite -- in particular, the shapes and finish of the plates on the extra thin seem harsh to me. Perhaps in the metal it is better? Best, CaliforniaJed

KO
Kong
Jun 10, 2014

it could be the low lighting and this piece is a prototype. But it brings up a point too, as there are two different shades with the four bridges. Wonder if factory does all the four bridges in one go or different batches. Yes, Jed, must see and try in metal, and see it slides under your cuff :-) Kong

KO
Kong
Jun 10, 2014

Hi Richard Well said, '...being thin doesn't look overly dressy'. The Octo Finissimo has certain ruggedness in the case design, it goes well with both formal and casual setting. Would prefer the strap to taper slimmer. Solotempo and Finissimo, more wearable size to me, as my wrist is small. Velocissimo is a bit big and the 'muscular part' of the leather strap from the lug-sections is too stiff, does not really help to sit the watch well. Try it when the commercial pieces reach the boutiques. Tha

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