Bulgari 303 Chronograph: A Close Look
Review

Bulgari 303 Chronograph: A Close Look

By bernard cheong · Jul 15, 2008 · 31 replies
bernard cheong
WPS member · Bulgari forum
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Bernard Cheong's detailed photographic essay on the Bulgari 303 chronograph offers a compelling argument for its place in high horology. His macro photography reveals the exceptional finishing and multi-layered dial construction, challenging perceptions of Bulgari as solely a fashion brand. Cheong's analysis, comparing it to established luxury watchmakers, underscores the 303's unexpected quality and value.

First, a natural look at the 303 after 5 days on my wrist, including the times I played the MDT with pals!

Now, the Morrison Digital Trumpet is one awesome machine. But look at the 303!!! In natural light, the Bulgari words appear as a design, the change of font alone was enough..but what the heck..

If you don't have hIGH speed load up, this is one post worth the wait for the pics below!

There are very few dials abd work that is THIS good...at any price.

Have a look!

 










Note that the reflective high polish of the bezel of pure white gold gives the ring any color, according to what it reflects.

Hence, the watch adopts a "non color" that allows it to merge and match any clothing, skin tone and background very well indeed.

Now for the SUPER close ups to demonstrate what I found in the watch..remember..I am an IWC, Vianney, Urwerk, MBF and of course gerald Genta type of collector, who begand with Patek, Journe and Lange..in fact, I have much more of the last three than any other brands.

So Bulgari for me is a discovery.

There are 30 pics here..in close up done with no touch ups.

The watch is INCREDIBLY clean and well finished. A Rolex level of finesse. The watch is also incredibly solid and heavy, the type of feel you get from a solid gold Rolex.

As you are waiting for the down load...reflect on the fact that Bulgari has had a challenging time to fight its way back into high horology. It could have gone the Cartier way, or the LV way. It could have chosen the LUC chopard way, or HWRT's Opus way. The company is wealthy.

It has chosen the Rolex path, a direct no high flying products way. Direct assault with super high quality on a simple watch.

Instead of Daytona's use of the Zenith in the first days of Rolex Daytonas, Bulgari has used the FP base with an in house vertical clutch and an OH SO SMOOTH activator!

It has chosen to do the Rolex way of making the ultimate perfect no flaws dial...but with a super complex multi layer.

It has used the Rolex way of using precious metal on the bezel..discreet, but with a touch of gloss where it matters to the owner's eye.

 

 

 This is one of the watches of 2008. It is easier to make a $1,000,000 USD super watch, than to make one of these at $12,000 USD

I am speechless.

 







Solid rose gold counters and solid rose gold hands
Solid rose gold counters and solid rose gold hands


Solid RG counter has ultra fine ribs, can't be seen with a loupe at times!
Solid RG counter has ultra fine ribs, can't be seen with a loupe at times!


All indexes are hand placed, no tweeser marks
All indexes are hand placed, no tweeser marks


Look at Lange Dato markers, I have one..and the finish of the 303 is of the same or better
Look at Lange Dato markers, I have one..and the finish of the 303 is of the same or better


Note the finish of the grey top layer of the dial..Patek level cut and cleaner, no fibers or dust
Note the finish of the grey top layer of the dial..Patek level cut and cleaner, no fibers or dust


Note how fine the layer of paint is. No pocks, no uneven parts
Note how fine the layer of paint is. No pocks, no uneven parts


The hand is 100% flat and fully polished and 100% even, no curves!!
The hand is 100% flat and fully polished and 100% even, no curves!!


Note that grey paint is so fine, no pocks, no uneveness at full magnification
Note that grey paint is so fine, no pocks, no uneveness at full magnification


The seconds painted on are 100% flawless...beyond many top 3 brands.
The seconds painted on are 100% flawless...beyond many top 3 brands.


Bezel has hand ground letters flawless...like the Bulgari jewelry
Bezel has hand ground letters flawless...like the Bulgari jewelry, I chose the letter G to show you the cut!!! How fine it is!!!
 
 
 
 


Look at the precision of the index alignment!!
Look at the precision of the index alignment!!



The luminous material is Rolex style..precise and deep and generous..not like a splosh of paint as in others. Completely flat and precise.

 

 

Examine the paint work and the luminous material..the quality!!!
Examine the paint work and the luminous material..the quality!!!



Note the solid gold index is multi faceted!!!

 

Look at the large seconds hand
Look at the large seconds hand


The 12 is 100% flawless under high magnification...usually impossible
The 12 is 100% flawless under high magnification...usually impossible


The deep Geneva stripes on the dial!!
The deep Geneva stripes on the dial!!


Lush and deep Geneva stripes..full of 3D colors
Lush and deep Geneva stripes..full of 3D colors


100% flawless
100% flawless


date has an iNDIVIDUAL solid gold frame
date has an iNDIVIDUAL solid gold frame


Look how deep the dial is cut and striped!
Look how deep the dial is cut and striped!


See details!!
See details!!


Multi layered at the extreme best!!!
Multi layered at the extreme best!!!

 

Super sharp hand details.

 



 







Bracelet is 100% flawless like a Rolex!!!
Bracelet is 100% flawless like a Rolex!!!


Deep carvings
Deep precise carvings, beyond even Rolex and Patek cases.
 
 
 
 





The anglage of movement is not mirror polished like Dufour or Patek..much closer to Journe, and I would say cleaner than Journe.

 I don't judge a watch by the brand...and I would be blown away by an Oris if it was this well made.

 







Look at the cut of the pusher extermally, and the cut of the column wheel.



A super watch for the collector who appreciates the absolute ultimate best, but not at 6 figure price tags.

It is ironic that it takes Bulgari, a group known for the MOST EXPENSIVE things, to make the watch world sit up and look at the price of the watches today. This watch is that good..at an affordable real world luxury price.

This message has been edited by bernard cheong on 2008-07-22 21:24:51

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
KO
Kong
Jul 15, 2008

The 3-level dial (a decorated grayish metal base, gold subdials & indices sitting on top of the anthracite vertically decorated stripes plate) is well executed, sharp definition and no burrs. The Superluminova on the indices are pretty thick! I believe the superluminova will be very bright and last pretty long if well-charged, as thickness is a factor for brightness and 'luminescent-duration'. Actually very cleanly applied too, as could not see any edge spilled over. Why was the Swiss Made label

MO
Mostel
Jul 15, 2008

Because I'm damn curious about this watch now. (but I have to admit I still don't agree with that bezel!)

NY
nycWIS
Jul 15, 2008

....from a highly-regarded Purist. However, to be honest, while the Bulgari is certainly a nice watch at a decent price point, I don't really find the workmanship noticeably better than other watches in a similar (or lower) price range. The dial workmanship of UN watches in the Maxi marine series comes to mind along with various BP, GO, and IWC chronos from both a movement and dial/case perspective. Different strokes for different folks....;-) Best, Mitch

MO
Mostel
Jul 15, 2008

your pictures and insights enlarge further add to this watch' (instant) legendary status. Really great pics!! Thank you. It is quite well done.

VP
VPREGULATOR
Jul 15, 2008

True to being a fashion label, the company takes every opportunity to advertise its name on the dial as well as the bezel. Perhaps they can tone down their enthusiasm and concentrate on making the watch less ostentatious. Rolex's reputation wasn't built up in a mere few years. This message has been edited by VPREGULATOR on 2008-07-15 20:27:33

AF
AFSG
Jul 15, 2008

Is it an optical effect or is the luminova index at 5 not properly aligned, as per pictures #13 and 14? That aside the bezel is really off-putting... I can't understand why they're not trying to move away from the gaudy image of years past... Anyway, as usual very passionate indeed and what a ringing endorsement… many a brand would kill for half of that.

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