Breitling Navitimer 81600 Restoration & Review

nilomis · 2013-11-13T08:05:55Z

Explore the restoration of a 1986 Breitling Navitimer 81600 with a Lemania 1873 movement. Discover its history, technical details, and vintage appeal.

nilomis

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

9 replies5468 views13 photos

Nilomis shares an in-depth restoration story of his Breitling Navitimer 81600, a significant model from 1986. This post highlights the journey of bringing a vintage timepiece back to life, showcasing the technical aspects of its Lemania 1873 movement and its historical importance in Breitling's post-quartz crisis revival.

9 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

Team,

Weeks back I got a Navitimer 81600.

I was looking for this Navitimer model for some time, because I consider it one of the most beautiful "modern" Navitimer (it's from 1986).

The Navitimer 81600 was the first Navitimer produced by Breitling after their deep crisis on the 70's and carries a very respected movement.

The Lemania 1873, A.K.A. Omega 861, is a solid movement and the fact that it powers the Speedmaster Moon is more than tested.

On the early past, Breitling produced Navitimers using several movements (Venus 178, Valjoux 72, Valjoux 7750 etc.) and after the Navitimer 81600 Breitling switched again to use Valjoux 7740 and many others.

The 81600 that is object of this post was on a seller drawer in bad shape. The chronograph reset button was not working, the watch was working, barely.

The only thing that was in great shape was the case, dial and the overall looks of the bezel.

Trusting on my watchmaker for a good full maintenance I acquired the watch.

Here is the final product trying to fly:

1) The dial is in great shape with an intense patina on the former luminous marks.

2) The movement was clean but dry as a bone.

3) The base plate was in perfect state. No oxidation.

4) Movement, after the clean and oiling process. Looks very cool.

5) Time machine test, after the proper regulation.

6) A set of pictures after the maintenance:

It's a cool watch, IMHO

Considering the fact that this Navitimer 81600 was made in 1986 (I believe that they only made it in 86/87) the accuracy of this watch is amazing. On my wrist it's outperforming other watches that I own (that are Chronometer certificated).

One point that is worth mention if the case. The watch measures 40mm (ignoring the crown) and "dresses" admirably.

The black dial with the white sub dials is amazing.

Two issues on it:

a) The lume on the hands was very fragmented. They did their best to redo the lume using the same color (of course, it does not show any lume on the dark).

b) The crystal is a replacement one (notice the green hue on the borders). I'm trying to source a original one.

On a summary: I believe that I was very lucky with this acquisition. Even considering that I'm not a vintage fan, this one, with 27 years old is getting my attention and wrist time.

Cheers,

Nilo

Note: To all Breitling experts. Be free to correct me if I state something wrong. I'm far from being a Breitling expert or collector (I only have this Breitling).

This message has been edited by nilomis on 2013-11-13 12:30:00

Key Points from the Discussion

The Navitimer 81600 is considered a very important model as it marked the 'reboot' of the Navitimer line after the quartz crisis, making it a significant piece in Breitling's history.
A correction was provided regarding the movement history, noting that the Valjoux 7740 predated the Lemania in the Navitimer line, and the Lemania 1873 (Omega 861) continued in the 24h Cosmonautes.
The author expressed a personal connection to the watch, calling it an 'icon' due to its Lemania movement, which is also found in the Omega Speedmaster 'Moonwatch'.
The 81600 is appreciated for being a true representation of the Breitling brand, bridging vintage and contemporary aesthetics, and for housing the respected Lemania movement.
A fellow collector expressed their desire to acquire a Navitimer, particularly one with a black dial and black subdials, acknowledging the difficulty of finding such pieces.
The author shared a 'pair shot' of his 81600 alongside a Navitimer Cosmonaute, highlighting the shared Lemania movement with a 24-hour modification.

The Discussion

WatchFred

Nov 13, 2013

welcome to the club, Nilo; nice one.

excellent condition, I will let you know if I hear about an available crystal, these are not easy to source. Small correction, the Valjoux 7740 came well before the Lemania with the early 1970s ref. 7806, in the Navitimer line it was replaced by the automatic Valjoux 7750 in the "Old Navitimer" with a 12-6-9 configuration and date at 3. The Lemania did live on for more than a decade in the 24h Cosmonautes. congrats & wear it in health, Fred

nilomis

Nov 13, 2013

I was searching for one ...

For a long time. To me, the 81600 is a very important Navitimer because it marks the "reboot" of the line, after the dark ages of the so called "quartz crisis". Thank you for the correction. I go to update my post to reflect that. About the crystal, please do. I pay lots of attention to the proper crystals. Cheers, Nilo

Ares501 - Mr Green

Nov 13, 2013

It is cool watch!

One of icons in my opinion and watch that I love and would like to own Great catch Nilo! Congrats! Best regards Damjan

nilomis

Nov 13, 2013

Thank you ...

For me it's an icon. A Navitimer powered by a Moon watch movement. With this one I can dream to go to ... Jupiter. Cheers, Nilo

flightmaster71

Nov 16, 2013

Magnificent Nilo

A true representation of the brand. Some of Breitling's most iconic work IMO. While it is approacing vintage it is still contempory andlove that it is from a limited group to house the Lemania movt.

nilomis

Nov 16, 2013

I agree. Notice the coincidence ...

Bumped with a friend that was wearing a Navitimer Cosmonaute that uses the basically the same movement. In his case with a little change to display 24 hours. Took time to take a pair shot: Cheers, Nilo