Breitling Navitimer 81600 Restoration & Review
Vintage

Breitling Navitimer 81600 Restoration & Review

By nilomis · Nov 13, 2013 · 9 replies
nilomis
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
9 replies5468 views13 photos
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Nilomis shares an in-depth restoration story of his Breitling Navitimer 81600, a significant model from 1986. This post highlights the journey of bringing a vintage timepiece back to life, showcasing the technical aspects of its Lemania 1873 movement and its historical importance in Breitling's post-quartz crisis revival.

Team,

Weeks back I got a Navitimer 81600.

I was looking for this Navitimer model for some time, because I consider it one of the most beautiful "modern" Navitimer (it's from 1986).

The Navitimer 81600 was the first Navitimer produced by Breitling after their deep crisis on the 70's and carries a very respected movement.

The Lemania 1873, A.K.A. Omega 861, is a solid movement and the fact that it powers the Speedmaster Moon is more than tested.

On the early past, Breitling produced Navitimers using several movements (Venus 178, Valjoux 72, Valjoux 7750 etc.) and after the Navitimer 81600 Breitling switched again to use Valjoux 7740 and many others.

The 81600 that is object of this post was on a seller drawer in bad shape. The chronograph reset button was not working, the watch was working, barely.

The only thing that was in great shape was the case, dial and the overall looks of the bezel.

Trusting on my watchmaker for a good full maintenance I acquired the watch.

Here is the final product trying to fly:




1) The dial is in great shape with an intense patina on the former luminous marks.




2) The movement was clean but dry as a bone.




3) The base plate was in perfect state. No oxidation.




4) Movement, after the clean and oiling process. Looks very cool.




5) Time machine test, after the proper regulation.




6) A set of pictures after the maintenance:




















It's a cool watch, IMHO








Considering the fact that this Navitimer 81600 was made in 1986 (I believe that they only made it in 86/87) the accuracy of this watch is amazing. On my wrist it's outperforming other watches that I own (that are Chronometer certificated).

One point that is worth mention if the case. The watch measures 40mm (ignoring the crown) and "dresses" admirably.

The black dial with the white sub dials is amazing.

Two issues on it:

a) The lume on the hands was very fragmented. They did their best to redo the lume using the same color (of course, it does not show any lume on the dark).

b) The crystal is a replacement one (notice the green hue on the borders). I'm trying to source a original one.

On a summary: I believe that I was very lucky with this acquisition. Even considering that I'm not a vintage fan, this one, with 27 years old is getting my attention and wrist time.

Cheers,

Nilo

Note: To all Breitling experts. Be free to correct me if I state something wrong. I'm far from being a Breitling expert or collector (I only have this Breitling).

This message has been edited by nilomis on 2013-11-13 12:30:00

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WatchFred
Nov 13, 2013

excellent condition, I will let you know if I hear about an available crystal, these are not easy to source. Small correction, the Valjoux 7740 came well before the Lemania with the early 1970s ref. 7806, in the Navitimer line it was replaced by the automatic Valjoux 7750 in the "Old Navitimer" with a 12-6-9 configuration and date at 3. The Lemania did live on for more than a decade in the 24h Cosmonautes. congrats & wear it in health, Fred

NI
nilomis
Nov 13, 2013

For a long time. To me, the 81600 is a very important Navitimer because it marks the "reboot" of the line, after the dark ages of the so called "quartz crisis". Thank you for the correction. I go to update my post to reflect that. About the crystal, please do. I pay lots of attention to the proper crystals. Cheers, Nilo

AR
Ares501 - Mr Green
Nov 13, 2013

One of icons in my opinion and watch that I love and would like to own Great catch Nilo! Congrats! Best regards Damjan

NI
nilomis
Nov 13, 2013

For me it's an icon. A Navitimer powered by a Moon watch movement. With this one I can dream to go to ... Jupiter. Cheers, Nilo

FL
flightmaster71
Nov 16, 2013

A true representation of the brand. Some of Breitling's most iconic work IMO. While it is approacing vintage it is still contempory andlove that it is from a limited group to house the Lemania movt.

SP
Spellbound
Nov 16, 2013

Heh Nilo, As always you are one step ahead of me. I am desperately looking to make my first entry into Breitling. Missed out on a beautiful 806 AOPA last month, but am still on the prowl. In particular I am looking for a Navi with black dial and black subdials, but I'll not complain if I come across one as wonderful as yours. Congrats my friend. Dean

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