Breguet Rose Gold Patina & Oxidation
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Breguet Rose Gold Patina & Oxidation

By le broodje · Jul 5, 2024 · 32 replies
le broodje
WPS member · Breguet forum
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Forum member 'le broodje' recently shared a fascinating discovery about their Breguet Classique Ref. 3137, which Breguet itself confirmed as rose gold despite its yellow gold appearance. This revelation sparked a community discussion on the oxidation of gold alloys, a phenomenon that can significantly alter a watch's aesthetic over time. This article explores the insights shared by collectors on why certain gold watches develop unique patinas, offering valuable context for both new and seasoned enthusiasts.

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So I recently acquired a 3137 (presumably in yellow gold, but I'll go into this later) and a 3337 in rose gold.



I then brought them to Breguet in Switzerland for servicing. After a couple of weeks, I received the estimates, and the one for the 3137 stated that it's a "3137BR".

I replied, indicating that the 3137 should be a yellow gold piece and they had apparently made a mistake. A few days later, they responded with the following:

"Regarding your 3137, please be advised that the watch is in rose gold. Rose gold oxidizes over time, and the case may look like yellow gold, but we confirm that it is rose gold."

How is this even possible? The 3137 looks entirely yellow to me, so I had no doubt it was a yellow gold piece. I actually prefer the color of the rose gold and they also seem to fetch higher prices on the market, so I guess I struck gold (pun intended).

Can anyone provide any insights?

About the Breguet Classique Ref. 3137

The reference 3137 represents Breguet's approach to classical watchmaking within the Classique series. This reference features a 36mm case size that positions it as a traditionally proportioned timepiece within the model range.

The watch houses an automatic movement within an 18k yellow gold case measuring 36mm in diameter. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, and the timepiece offers 30 meters of water resistance. The design incorporates a fixed bezel as part of the overall case construction.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a precious metal automatic timepiece with classical proportions. The 36mm case size and yellow gold construction target those who prefer traditional sizing and materials. The automatic movement and sapphire crystal reflect contemporary technical standards within the Classique series framework.

Specifications

Caliber
591A
Case
18k Yellow Gold
Diameter
36 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
DC
Dchang81
Jul 5, 2024
My Patek R looks almost yellow gold to me. Dealer that I didn't purchase from thought it was a J, said that the oxidation makes it more yellow gold

LE
le broodje
Jul 5, 2024
Oh wow I didn't know this is even possible. Thanks for the input. The oxidation is so uniform that it makes the watch look exactly like yellow gold

IN
India Whiskey Charlie
Jul 5, 2024
Yup! That's what happens to rose gold.

AQ
Aquaracer1
Jul 5, 2024
So it’s not just me…

I swear my RG ALS was looking more YG to me over time…

IN
India Whiskey Charlie
Jul 5, 2024
I have witnessed the change on a number of rose gold watches over the many years

One of which was a lightly worn Rolex day/date belonging to my wife. It changed in less than a decade and she was very upset. I, on the other hand, felt it looked quite nice as I dislike the Rolex rose or everose or whatever they call it. Other watches that turned yellow-ish were Journe, IWC, JLC, etc.

LE
le broodje
Jul 5, 2024
I still can't wrap my head around how the oxidation can be so uniform.

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