Breguet Exquisite Dial-making Showcase
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Breguet Exquisite Dial-making Showcase

By Kong · Sep 21, 2013 · 11 replies
Kong
WPS member · Breguet forum
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Kong's detailed report from 2013 offers a rare glimpse into Breguet's exquisite dial-making craftsmanship, focusing on guilloché and cameo carving. This post is invaluable for understanding the intricate artistry behind Breguet's iconic dials and the dedication to traditional techniques that define the brand.

Last week Breguet Singapore organised an event to showcase their exquisite craftsmanship in the aesthetic of watchmaking at the Au Petit Salut French Restaurant.  Two artisans were flown for the occasion.  Before the lunch, guests could view and learn about the process of guilloche and also opportunities to hands-on with an vintage engine-turning machine to engrave a dial.  Another artisan, who hand-carves the cameo dials showed his various amazing work and answered queries from the guests, as this cameo carving is less commonly seen in previous watch-events.

A recap of the educational afternoon before lunch ...




Entrance to restaurant ...


Let's see the guilloche work of one of the most complicated engine-turned dials - The Breguet Reveil du Tsar,
with 7 engraved patterns!



Breguet Reveil du Tsar showcase ...


The steps were printed with corresponding sample for each step ... good illustration !





Gold base-plate


Tracing of the perimeters of areas to be engraved ...





Starting with sub-dials area  ... 4 types of patterns just for the 3 subdials ..





Semi-finished before galvanising ...





The finished dial

( Note, it is photographed upside down as there are guests on the opposite side)




The artisan, Mr Daniel Tille, guilloche master who not only does the engine-turn-engraving, he services this near century-old
turning machine (circa 1927) and fabricates the tools for all engravings. 

Marvelous to see the centurian engine-turning machine!


Mr Daniel Tille preparing a dial for hands-on session ...


Note he is looking through the microscope with video attachment, so we could witness the engraving on the large LCD screen on his right.





Mr Daniel Tille


Mr Fabien Levrion, Vice President of Swatch Group Singapore - Breguet  has the first drive smile


Followed by Ms Rosemary Loh, Marketing & Public Relations Manager Breguet Singapore.  Her progress of engraving the dial was 'live' on screen.





Changing a new dial as more guests wanting to try ...


Hands-on by guests ...






Next is the lesser seen cameo carving on seashell  ...



A showcase to illustrate the steps to complete a cameo dial ....



Hand-carving of the Reine de Naples Cammea dial



A detailed explanation of the steps to create the  Reine de Naples Cammea dial  in two slides.  Depending on the complexity of the work,
a cameo-carved dial may need days to 2 weeks to complete.



Note on the word 'contrast' ... the work is like still life drawing with light and shading


Press members photographing some of the intricate work of ...



Mr Fabio Ottaviano, Cameo-carving master.



The steps from beginning to end of the cameo carving of the Reine de Naples Cammea dial from seashell ...


The raw material ... large Sardonix seashell or Cassis Madagascariensis with two layers of colours - white surface and brown underlying.


These are all the tools - chisels and hands to create any cameo dial which Mr Daniel Tille requires ... not even any microscope or loupe!


Patient removing of layer by layer of the white layer of the seashell to form the shape and the shading ...


The seashell piece after the initial sketch of the image is adhered on the holder with hot wax...







From left piece, selecting a flat portion of the shell, cut the perimeter of the dial, sketch the image ...





Then carved out the outlines ...


and remove material till the underlying brown for the required portions ...

Now for some other marvellous work of Mr Ottaviano ... sort of miniature carving ...


The Last Supper ...


Note the 3D depth of the figurines of the Primavera (by Sandro Botticelli , which could be viewed in Uffizi )


With his Breguet Marine



Another variation ... floral petal engraving .. using specific raised portions of the seashell





The pointed/raise portion of the shell ... for the rose, likely is part of the new Breguet Secret de la Reine collection.


Camea dial with the Three  dancing Graces ...






Another intricate work ... note the translucency on some portion of her robe!











Another cameo carving of the Primavera (by Sandro Botticelli )



Some exceptional watches showcased  ...









Reine de Naples Jour-Nuit 8998BB


Classique Hora Mundi 5719PT


Classique 'Grande Complication' Openwork 3355PT


Tourbillon Messidor 5335BR


Classique 'Grande Complication' 5359BB


Classique 'Grande Complication' 1801BR


Marine GMT 5857BR


Before lunch, Mr Fabien Levrion, thanked the guests for attending ...


also introducing some of the watch pieces showcased ...


The Two Artisans - Mr Daniel Tille & Mr Fabio Ottaviano .... great to see both!


Proceed to lunch ...


One of the novelties exhibited at the dinning area - Classic Reserve de Marches 5277








Lunch menu




Thanks to Breguet for the wonderful afternoon and a better insight of  the work of both the artisans - Mr Ottaviano and Mr Tille.


Kong









This message has been edited by Kong on 2013-09-22 20:35:36

About the Breguet Classique Complications Ref. 1801

The Breguet Classique Ref. 1801 is part of the brand's collection celebrating its historical legacy, drawing inspiration from early Breguet designs. This reference is notable for its traditional aesthetic, which emphasizes legibility and classical proportions, aligning with the brand's heritage of horological innovation and design principles. It represents a commitment to the foundational elements of fine watchmaking, presented in a contemporary yet historically resonant package.

This timepiece features an 18k yellow gold case measuring 36 mm in diameter, housing the manual-wind Caliber 558T. The movement provides a power reserve of 50 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the silver dial, which typically features Breguet numerals and hands, enhancing its classic appeal. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion.

The Ref. 1801 appeals to collectors who appreciate Breguet's historical contributions to watchmaking and seek a piece that embodies those traditions. Its design, with a focus on understated elegance and mechanical integrity, positions it as a significant offering within the Classique line. The reference is often associated with special anniversary collections, reflecting its role in commemorating key milestones for the brand.

Specifications

Caliber
558T
Case
18k Yellow Gold
Diameter
36 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Sep 21, 2013

And Exquisite is the word! Best, Nicolas

TI
tick tock doctor
Sep 21, 2013

Hello Kong Thanks for taking your time and sharing, exceptional post. Kind regards Anthony

KO
Kong
Sep 22, 2013

said, Vlad. Thanks for viewing. kong

KO
Kong
Sep 22, 2013

you enjoyed the post, Anthony. Thanks for viewing. Kong

AN
AnthonyTsai
Sep 23, 2013

WOW! Thanks for the report and great pictures! Cheers, Anthony

NI
nilomis
Sep 24, 2013

Thank you very much for sharing this entire process. What a show! Cheers, Nilo

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