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In a compelling thought experiment, 'this_hobby_of_hours' challenges the WatchProSite community to select a single Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference from three iconic choices: the 5402, 15202, and 15500. This survey, designed to strip away market influences and condition concerns, forces collectors to confront their pure horological preferences. The discussion that follows reveals nuanced insights into the Royal Oak's evolution and collector priorities.
The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors.
The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear.
For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.
AP RO wears 2mm or so large, so the smaller size is preferable imo.
The 41 mm too big for my 7 inch wrist, and I prefer a matching date wheel if a watch is going to have a date!
I find the 41 a bit too large.
I don’t know enough, but I went to look it up thinking this is the original, but wondered why the AP logo is at 12 o’clock. But looking up an AP site article shows a 5402st version which is similar to the 15402 although with white date wheel. Please clarify if you would.
I wanted to see who would notice. Series A 👏
But I think there may have been different dials, since your other picture also pops up. That’s why I’m asking.
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