Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Nomade Ref. 75200TI

quattro · 2026-04-15T14:41:47Z

Explore Audemars Piguet's new Atelier des Établisseurs collection, reviving traditional watchmaking with ultra-limited, artistic timepieces like the Nomade Ref. 75200TI.OO.01.

quattro

WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum

13 replies709 views28 photos

quattro introduces Audemars Piguet's "Atelier des Établisseurs," a new creative hub dedicated to ultra-limited, artistic timepieces. This initiative, spearheaded by Ilaria Resta, revives the historical "établissage" watchmaking tradition, emphasizing specialized, independent units assembling components for a final product. quattro's post details the first three creations, highlighting AP's renewed commitment to expanding its creative boundaries.

13 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

The practice of watchmaking, known as “établissage,” is a method that spread from the 18th century onwards in the Jura region, particularly in the Neuchâtel mountains.

It involves dividing the manufacturing work into small, specialised, and independent units, and then assembling all the components at the last minute to finalise the product.

Created at the instigation of Ilaria Resta as one of her first project, Audemars Piguet's “Atelier des Établisseurs” is, as its name suggests, rooted in the historic tradition of “établissage”.

It is a creative hub bringing together master artisans to design and create ultra-limited, one-of-a-kind timepieces with great artistic freedom.

So, here are the first 3 creations from this workshop, which demonstrates the determination of Audemars Piguet's new management to expand and stimulate the brand's creativity.

A/ ÉTABLISSEURS NOMADE Ref. 75200TI.OO.01

Its sculptural, multifunctional design transitions seamlessly between pocket‑watch use and table display.

At the push of two mysterious buttons, the watch slides open to reveal an inner case, which can further articulate so that the piece can become a desk clock.

The skeletonised hand-wound Calibre 7501 is based on the AP Calibre 7121 introduced for the new generation 16202 Jumbo back in 2022.

Framed by a natural‑stone dial, it features openworked bridges which act as the lines of the hour‑markers.

The movement has been entirely skeletonised by hand using a traditional hacksaw.

Front view

Rear view

The 68 x 42 mm outer case is designed to fit in a small pocket, showing only the dramatically faceted, titanium mesh stone-inlaid exterior.

In accordance with the logic of the “établissage” production, this watch is the work of several artisans:

Emmanuel Desuzinges is responsible for the casing structure and pivoting system,

Mario Senape for the stone setting,

Alexis Bernard for the sapphire crystals,

and Jérôme Besançon for the anglage.

credit: Audemars Piguet & Revolution (photos 4-5)

B/ ÉTABLISSEURS PEACOCK Ref. 75210OW.OO.7521OW.01

When closed, it resembles a beetle.

On demand, thanks to a secret-opening system designed by the legendary Giulio Papi, its head lifts and its wings unfold to reveal an enamelled dial which tilts forward.

The revealed dial features a window for the current (dragging, not jumping) hours.

The following images show the steps of the opening of the Peacock.

Artisans involved are:

The wings are crafted in the workshop of Adrian Altman.

The bracelet is crafted entirely at the Musee Atelier Audemars Piguet by jeweler Ywan Kunzle.

The gold dial is made by Vincent Michel in Saint-Imier and carved into small compartments, which are further hand-engraved by Guy Froidevaux in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Froidevaux is also the engraver for the head and neck of the peacock itself.

Once engraved, the dial goes to Peseux-based Vanessa Lecci, who champlevé-enamels each of these compartments in different shades.

The watch is powered by hand wound Calibre 3098, which reinterprets the 3090 from 1999.

credit: Audemars Piguet & Revolution (3-4)

C/ ÉTABLISSEURS GALETS Ref. 75220BA.OO.7522BA.01

Conceptualised by independent designer Xavier J. Perrenoud, this timepiece pays tribute to the pebbles of the Lac de Joux, a lake near AP's Le Brassus headquarters.

The completely asymmetrical bracelet, crafted by Genevan jeweler Nadia Morgenthaler, consists of pebble-shaped yellow gold links of varying sizes, connected via tiny ball joints.

The gold links are inlaid with turquoise and tiger's eye stones in the Cossonay workshops of Mario Senape.

The center asymmetrical oval-shaped case has been designed and crafted by Théo Massouatis and Pablo Brenlla in Geneva.

Calibre 3098 was developed especially for the Établisseurs Galets watch, based on the historical Calibre 3090.

In 1972, Audemars Piguet took part in the Baden Baden jewellery competition with the watch known as "Arabella", whose design inspired the Établisseurs Galets watch.

credit: Revolution (1), Watchonista (5) & Audemars Piguet

I'm personally very glad to see Audemars Piguet being creative and following new paths, far away from the Royal Oak.

What about you?

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 16202

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin reference 16202 succeeded the reference 15202 in 2022, marking an evolution of the original 1972 Royal Oak design. This reference maintains the distinctive proportions and aesthetic codes that define the "Jumbo" lineage, characterized by its slim profile and integrated bracelet, making it a cornerstone of the Royal Oak collection.

This reference features a 39mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 8.1mm, housing the self-winding Caliber 7121. The movement provides a power reserve of 55 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 50 meters. The fixed octagonal bezel, secured by visible screws, is a signature element of the design.

Appealing to collectors who value the historical significance and refined execution of the Royal Oak, the 16202 continues the legacy of the original "Jumbo." It represents a contemporary iteration that respects its heritage while incorporating modern horological advancements. This reference is available with a blue dial and is fitted with a matching stainless steel integrated bracelet.

Specifications

Caliber: Caliber 7121

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 39mm

Dial: Blue

Water Resist.: 50m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The new direction, particularly the Nomade, is praised for blending artisanal watchmaking with modern design, with a suggestion for an alarm function to enhance its appeal.
A comparison is drawn between the Nomade and the vintage Movado Ermeto-Hermetic, suggesting a modern interpretation of a 100-year-old concept.
The claim of hand-skeletonization using a hacksaw is questioned, with a suggestion that a fret or piercing saw would be more appropriate for such delicate work.
The craftsmanship behind these creations is acknowledged as extraordinary, even if the pieces are unattainable for most collectors.
The original author clarifies that Audemars Piguet specifically mentioned a hacksaw in their description, providing additional images for context.

The Discussion

Apr 15, 2026

I like the desk watch and the shaped movement in the last timepiece.

And, of course, the craftsmanship behind these creations is extraordinary even if they are beyond a dream for mere mortals to ever acquire. Thanks for posting Emmanuel. M4

quattro

Apr 15, 2026

I also like the desk/pocket watch very much: I wouldn't mind owning one, really...

Thanks for looking. Best, Emmanuel

MichaelC

Apr 15, 2026

Incredibly creative pieces by AP

Who says they only make Royal Oaks? Thanks, Emmanuel!

quattro

Apr 15, 2026

Yes, I love to see them doing pieces like this!

Cheers, Emmanuel

golden hands

Apr 15, 2026

A/ ÉTABLISSEURS NOMADE Ref. 75200TI.OO.01- love this one

could this be the modern version of the movado ermeto-hermetic from 1926 which makes it 100years old !! funny that. i would suggest that no skeletonising is done with a hack saw even junior. try a fret or piercing saw the last photo advertisement is of 'twiggy'

quattro

Apr 15, 2026

The Movado is close, but it doesn't transform into a table clock, does it?

The hacksaw is mentioned by AP... I don't know anything more (see images below)... And thanks for Twiggy: I wondered who she was (I thought for a minute it was French actress Jeanne Moreau). Best, Emmanuel