
Edwardwchang shares his experience with the Archimede 39H, a modern flieger watch that offers a compelling alternative to more expensive historical replicas. His post delves into the philosophy of watch wearing as an extension of personal style and critiques the luxury watch industry's approach to historical reissues.







The Panerai PAM372 is a Luminor 1950 model that draws inspiration from historical Panerai designs, particularly those from the 1950s. It is distinguished by its clean, two-hand dial layout and the absence of a small seconds sub-dial, which emphasizes its vintage aesthetic. This reference was part of a series that aimed to reintroduce classic Panerai elements to a contemporary audience, focusing on simplicity and historical accuracy in its presentation. It represents a direct link to the brand's heritage, offering a less complicated display than many of its counterparts.
The watch features a 47mm polished steel case, characteristic of early Panerai models, fitted with a 3mm thick Plexiglass crystal. It houses the in-house developed manual-wind Calibre P.3000, which provides a substantial power reserve of three days. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, allowing for appreciation of its construction. The large crown guard, a signature Luminor feature, ensures water resistance and protects the winding crown.
For collectors, the PAM372 is notable for its faithful recreation of historical design cues, including the "sandwich" dial construction and the use of Plexiglass, which contributes to its vintage appeal. Its limited production run and adherence to traditional Panerai proportions make it a sought-after reference among enthusiasts who value the brand's origins. The watch appeals to those seeking a direct connection to Panerai's past without modern embellishments.
thank you for reminding me that JLC does do some fantastic tributes! I do love the 1931 reversos, even though they wear a tad too flat and large for my wrist. I also like the deep sea vintage chronograph, which, like the tudor black bay, is a modern retro watch done right. JLC is a bit of a mixed bag though, they make mistakes like the navy seals line, which is a watch more suited for hedge fund associates playing with paintball guns on the beach in the hamptons than navy seals raiding a taliban
Answer... Am I a client for this kind of Watch? I would honestly answer that it all dépends of the Watch, not the image of the Watch. Would I buy a Watch because its image is associated with the Navy SEALs? Certainly not. Same answer for the Amvox line, by the way. BUT I go for a Watch if it pleases me. And the NSA is a Watch I like a lot. I less like the communication around the Watch. A second BUT, if you allow me: I never buy a Watch because of the brand on the dial. For the same reason. Watc
hi nico! I know you and members of this forum are sophisticated collectors who can evaluate each watch on its own merits, independent of the hype or marketing that drive luxury watch sales. However, I must admit that I personally cant separate the watch from the watch's image. Certain watches and watch brands are associated with the people who buy and wear them, be it NBA basketball players (AP ROO), euro trust fund kids (again AP ROO), Russian Oligarchs (Anything garish and overpriced), Chinese
Panerai Vendôme released several watches with the name Marina Militare... We all know that this was authorized for the Pam 36 and 82 ( Vespucci ), not the those which came after. Therefore, these watches are associated to the MM. Same than for JLC and the Navy SEALs, or are you able to make a distinction? Interesting discussion! Best, Nicolas
This is why I love De Bethune; a watch that you buy regardless of the name on the dial... which they have ensured by eliminating the name on the dial - look at the latest ones: DB28 and DB29!! Even the tang buckles are signed on the INSIDE (",)
I mean, the Watch is so us that we don't need to have our name on the dial... That would be a super marketing trick! Best, Nicolas
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