Harry Winston Excenter Tourbillon, developed with Peter Speake-Marin.

Feb 02, 2005,02:14 AM
 

Harry Winston Rare Timepieces introduces Excenter Tourbillon.






Basel is only months away and it is that exciting time of the year where watch enthusiasts await the unveiling of what's new this year. For Harry Winston, 2005 will be the year of introducing several new and very interesting pieces. One of the new models that Harry Winston has come up with this year is the new Excenter Tourbillon.

The complication is not new to Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, in fact, they have had Tourbillons in their previous partnerships with other independent watchmakers in Switzerland. This time however, is the first model with a Tourbillon housed within an Excenter casing. Moreover, you can trust Harry Winston in spotting the real talents in the industry, and this year The Excenter Tourbillon has been developed in conjunction with none other than, Peter Speake-Marin. Here is what he said about this watch, ?I was asked by HW to design a classical tourbillon with contemporary elements. ? and I have worked in parallel with Harry Winston designing the technical foundation as well as the overall aesthetics of the movement.




The Ruthenium finish dial and the white gold hour circle in white gold give the watch a sense of unity. Note the diamond is set in the center of the Tourbillon bridge, as well as behind. Traditional jewels are replaced by blue sapphires and of course even the screws are blued. Speaking of the color blue, perhaps one of the most understated details that has been clearly thought out is the bluing of the HW logo that is placed instead of "6" at the hour circle. As the power reserve is nestled at the back, the wearer will not know when to wind it; furthermore, as it is a pain to take the watch off each time the wearer wants to know when to wind it, Harry Winston has cleverly figured out a way to remind the wearer. The HW logo turns electric blue when it is less than 25 hour left on the double power reserve. Very clever indeed. This ingenuity was inspired by vintage British racing cars with two fuel tanks and a warning when to refuel.




The watch seems to deceive the viewer as the beauty of the watch lies not only at the front but equally from behind. Underneath the sapphire case-back lies a 110 hour power reserves indicated by two hands; 0-55 on the left and 55-110 on the right, both indicated by a set of beautiful blue hands in retrograde action.




Excenter Tourbillon will come only in Platinum, Rose Gold and Platinum set with gems.







TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION



Name: Excenter Tourbillon

Ref. of the model pictured: 200/MMT40PL.T

Movement: Hand-wound tourbillon HW400A developed with Peter Speake-Marin.

Functions: Off-centred hours and minutes. 110-hour power reserve, displayed by a double indicator. Warning of remaining 25 hours power reserve.

Case: 40mm, platinum

Dial: Ruthenium finish with hour and minute circles in 18-carat white gold

Crystal: Sapphire, with double anti-reflection treatment

Case-back: Sapphire, with double anti-reflection treatment

Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather with folding clasp

Water-resistance: 30 metres (3ATM)

Collection : The Premier Collection


Regards,
Aseanto Oudang.



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Comments: view entire thread

 

Way cool!

 
 By: PeterCDE : February 2nd, 2005-03:15
G'day, admittedly: i?m a sucker for everything "traditional" and vintage. And being such, most new designs and many new developments do cause a hard time for me. But the Excenter Tourbillon is truly different and the first impression on my side was "wow, ... 

The dimensions and numbers produced.

 
 By: azean : February 3rd, 2005-06:06
Hello Peter, Pheeewww, Im glad you found this piece interesting, actually I myself were wondering about your reactions on this one. There three things that strike me the most when I first looked at the pictures; the dominant Tourbillon bridge, the blue-in... 

Answers by Andrew were very close

 
 By: CLUE MONGER : February 2nd, 2005-03:15
The fuel tank clue was to indicate the twin power reserves. Other wise, he got every thing right. The British themes gave him PSM, (Liz Hurley, cars and planes with twin tanks), and the Aircraft that had the name Whirlwind...thus tourbillon. Well done! No... 

very cool piece!

 
 By: ei8htohms : February 2nd, 2005-04:16

Wow that is beautiful! Love the HW logo turning blue >>

 
 By: AnthonyTsai : February 2nd, 2005-04:16
when power reserve is less the 25 hours. That is simply awesome!! Thank you Aseanto & great job HW! Cheers, Anthony .

Like nearly all the marketed tourbillons,

 
 By: Lou Browning : February 2nd, 2005-06:18
This, to me, is so very unattractive. Gaping holes in the dials...so, so unattractive.

I like it!

 
 By: SJX : February 3rd, 2005-06:06

Why?

 
 By: Graham : February 4th, 2005-12:12
This looks like a (STT) Progress Watch movement...Customized by Peter Speak-Marin. If it is, then what is behind such concept?

no way

 
 By: ei8htohms : February 4th, 2005-03:03
Hi Graham, I don't know what you're looking at, but this movmeent in no way resembles an STT movement. _john

John I think Graham is right on this one....

 
 By: RT : February 4th, 2005-06:06
I just compared the photos here with the back of a Chronoswiss Tourbillon. The jewels positions are identical (and some of the screws as well). I am sure that HW and Peter have done some intensive modifications (increase power reserve, Tourbillon bridge, ... 

can you post a pic of the one you're thinking of?

 
 By: ei8htohms : February 4th, 2005-05:17
Hi Guys, Let me first apologize for the rather sharp and apparently hasty response I made to Graham's post. It was very early in the morning and I mistook his post for some of the trollish behavior we've been subjected to lately and responded much too qui... 

Here's a couple (pics)

 
 By: RT : February 4th, 2005-07:19
...  

why not?

 
 By: ThomasM : February 4th, 2005-07:07
If it were based upon an evolution of the STT movement, having been extensively reworked by a Master Watchmaker like PSM, what is intrinsically bad about this? I'm not aware of anything inherently wrong with the STT movement, though it's earlier Progress ... 

Some thoughts

 
 By: RT : February 4th, 2005-01:13
I certainly can't speak for Graham, but my guess is that maybe he is wondering what's the idea behind having Harry Winston working with PSM on the STT tourbillon base given PSM's status as an independent watchmaker and was first known for his foundation T... 

I am just surprised

 
 By: Graham : February 5th, 2005-01:01
Gents, Roger is right. Basically, I am just surprised to see HW and PSM collaborating on such a watch; using such base. Being a huge fan of HW?s Opus concept (well, except Opus 4; but that would be another post)and of other HW?s creations ( I have the ple... 

I?d say it depends

 
 By: PeterCDE : February 5th, 2005-03:03
Chronoswiss - HWRT G'day, admittedly: all i know of HWRT?s new piece is what is written and shown above. Personally i find it to be difficult to draw final conclusion based on this. And frankly, i have no clue who does the movement (keeping in mind a lice...  

Re: I am just surprised

 
 By: azean : February 5th, 2005-03:03

Thanks Azean! Like the watch in general and some comments

 
 By: RT : February 4th, 2005-06:06
This watch looks very balanced on both sides and appears to be quite traditional (the tourbillon bridge as well as the dial layout) while innovative (the back double power reserve as well and the clever indicator) at the same time. Will the rose gold vers... 

I would agree with Roger on this - put Peter's name in there somewhere,

 
 By: 219 : February 5th, 2005-12:24
and perhaps leave out the power reserve duration. Tourbillon is also a little superfluous given that it is clearly visible. Still a fabulous watch. Andrew H

Peter's name is indeed present.

 
 By: azean : February 7th, 2005-05:05
Hi Andrew, Unfortunantely the pictures shown above, are taken from an angle which make us miss Peter Speake-Marin's name that is subtly engraved underneath the right power reserve indicator. I too missed it in the beginning. This is what it says: ?develop... 

I should look more closely next time!

 
 By: 219 : February 7th, 2005-10:10
I would still add it to the front of the piece and remove the 'Tourbillon 110 Hours' part. I still think that is a little superfluous and Peter's name on the front. Still think the piece is very beautiful, the front is very 'Breguet' in style, and the use... 

Clarification

 
 By: Peter Speake-Marin : February 5th, 2005-09:09
Approximately one year ago I was approached by Max Busser of Harry Winston to craft a high quality tourbillon wristwatch in small series. I was given free reign to develop a movement which would be classic with contemporary elements. I used principally Sw... 

Thanks a lot Mr. Speake-Marin!

 
 By: SuitbertW : February 5th, 2005-09:09