Dear forumners,
I've been able to handle
the new MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual last
week and thought I could share with you my
impressions.
It seems from the first posts I could
read from you that this novelty makes people be very enthusiastic. After
I saw it and played with it, I can conclude that they are right to
be!
To
begin with, the LM1 was my favorite LM, even if I liked the
differential feature in the LM2 too. The LM101 is a great little LM but
it is of course not as technical and impressive as the LM1 can
be.
I
liked them when I tried them in the past; I found they are beautiful,
of course original watches and that they are worth considering getting
one. As far as I was concerned, I would not have made the final step as I
had other watches above it on my "dream"
wishlist.
Thus, before the official introduction, I
was wondering if this could be another LM101 version or an LM3 one. If
it was a LM3, then would it look like the LM1 and 2 or will it be much
different and a more significant evolution? Will it still look good?
Won't it be too big or too "extreme"?
Well, now I
discovered it on our forum and lately in the metal, I’m 100% thrilled as
it is even better than I would have imagined and I’m sure I won’t be
the only one.
OVERALL LOOK
& AESTHETICS
It is funny that the
watch looks thinner than the LM1 and 2, though it is not (same diameter
but around 1mm thicker). The LM2's dome glass is bigger (i.e. goes
higher) than the LM Perpetual's. The watch also looks very technical and
complicated: it reminds me of the Melchior robot, I don’t know why…
maybe like a mechanic droid without its
bodywork.
After
I saw the press-kit pictures I hoped it would still look thin
in live and that the dials construction showing all these
caliber's elements would not look to thick, too crowded and make the
dial look heavy. Well, it is 100% not, believe me!
As
for the crown, I like the central crown position,
even if the crown at 5 or 2 o’clock (from previous LMs) adds this little
original MB&F spirit a little
more.
The
dial and the subdials' ring are lacquered: several layers
cooked after each application. This leads to a stretch surface at each
new phase. Then the numerals are painted (in between
layers) and the final touches of lacquer are then applied. This leaves
the impression the numerals and writings
levitate.
The
balance bridge, as you see is not like the LM1 and 2 anymore
but more like the 101. This makes it a little lighter compared to the 2
foils from the first versions. This balance bridge is made of
only one piece and not an assembly of 2 crafted and polished parts put
together.
Finally, the case has beautiful
lugs. You'll notice their shape on my picture, they
are placed quite low to remain comfortable and you can notice the little
gap between the lug and the case which is a detail I like a lot too.
The bezel is polished (from the LM101 model) on the contrary to the LM1
and 2 which were satin (slightly
brushed).
Some
wrist shots to show how the watch looks like from further and
especially as it is well proportioned on my 6/6.2 inches wrist. I think
it looks good and not too big.
This
technical look doesn’t trouble the LM spirit which is inspired by 19th
century (J. Verne etc…). The design team succeeded in combining this
modern look with the original spirit of the Legacy
line.
MECHANICS
As
mentionned I think in the press-kit, two other brands created their own
interpretation of the perpetual Calendar complication. However, the one
we have here has been designed by Stephen McDonnell from scratch and
without using existing schemes.
In fact, the bridges
and different "levels" of the movement are thin and the different
springs and cams and levers are very well finished. Most of those parts
remain thin, brushed and beveled (very thin
beveling).
The
wheels show how complicated the movement is as they have nearly all
very different shapes: the teeth are so different that it is obvious
that each have a different function. This is was of the first elements
that I noticed: shapes follow function and they are all so different.
You can notice in the pictures close-up (press-kit), here below, 3 different wheel
profiles.
The
Power Reserve is significant with 75 hours at least (goes even at 100
hours but without the same accuracy, hence the power reserve is set for
75 hours).
Last
but not least, the leap year hand is jumping from a year to the next on
the contrary to most of QP I know where it is progressive. Two
advantages: first, it is more legible (even if we don't really need to
read it every day) and, it means it is equipped with a retrograde
feature: what about that!
As
mentioned in my previous post, the very interesting particularity of
this in-house conceived caliber (from scratch, no module, all
integrated) is that you can set the date without
damaging the caliber. People wreck their watches a lot by misuse of the
date setting during the "DeadZone" period (around midnight), whether it
is a QP or a simple date ring. Here, the pushers are disconnected when
in this DeadZone period.
As in previous references,
the movement finishing is fantastic. However, this time, it is more visually impressive on the front side, on the contrary of what we are usually used to having.
Source:
Press-kit
SETTING &
PUSHERS
On the case's side, you have
certainly noticed the unusual small pushers: very
nice choice imho as you don't need a stylet and I find they really look
good. A detail I like a lot, again.
Let
me add something about these pushers: they are one
of the best I experienced activating. They are soft
and as you keep on pushing them, the "click" is light and
metallic (no hard friction at any point, at all) and boom, the hand
jumps precisely to its final destination. I LOVED
that. It is very similar to a 5170 or Datograph pusher. And I shouldn't
say it but... even better.
However, don't forget that
they have to be pressed harder because of the smaller surface of the
pushers even if it is explained by the fact it should not be pushed
accidentally.
By the way, one of the pushers is
used to set all calendar hands at once (+1 day). It
is something we see in a few other QPs but not very
often.
CONCLUSION
If
I had the budget (same as LM2), this would really be something I would
acquire. I don't have a problem wearing a 44mm watch (not the case of
everyone) but the beauty and mechanical achievement are worth the trip
in a collection. And I don't say this easily.
It
looks stunning and I love it.
Yes,
it may be the perfect Perpetual Calendar, mechanically speaking. At
least one of the top ones, and I just can congratulate Max Büsser and
his friends for the work, with a special mention for the watchmaker in
head of the project: Stephen
McDonnell.
As a reminder, the LM Perpetual is available in two limited editions: 25 in rose gold and 25 in platinum, with a maximum of 25 movements made each year (i.e. 12 of each, each year)
François-Xavier is also preparing one of
his fine reviews about this wonder that he will post
later.
Please feel free to express yourself about
this new Legacy Machine and, as proposed by Stephen Mc Donnell, do not
hesitate to ask your questions about the technical aspects and we can
gather them for him.
Cheers,
Mark
**EDIT Nov 2016: Awarded GPHG 2016 Calendar Watch Prize. Very well deserved