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The Global & Cultural Appeal of the Bulgari Octo Case - A Review

 
 By: pingtsai : February 28th, 2014-23:36

The Bulgari Octo Case Has Global and Cultural Appeal


We’ve seen Bulgari take liberties with design in the integration of the Gerald Genta Octo with its own interpretation. But one thing they did remain true to original form is the case. The case has retained its original eight-sided octagonal shape the way that Genta had originally designed it and is the main feature that sets the identity of the watch. With an elegance that befits any setting or occasion and a significance that delves deeper than its angular edges, the Bulgari Octo case transcends personal tastes as well as cultural appeal.


 

Taking a Closer Look

 

When the Octo was released in the summer of 2012, Bulgari took an iconic case and infused their own design elegance and classicism to create a new watch that was more relatable to Bulgari’s core market base. The result was an incredibly successful one gaining nods of approval even from non-Bulgari fans. It was quite obvious that whatever they did, they did it right and it prompted Bulgari to develop the line further, releasing a stainless steel band version and this year, the Octo Chronograph.



 

The original Octo has a simple dial with only hour, minute, second hands and a small date display window. The minimalism tends to emphasize the character of the case even more. With 110 facets made up of separate angular surfaces, edges and planes which have all been hand-finished, the watch has a dynamic look while the circular bezel anchors and balances all the action in the case. Viewing the case at any angle, you will see cuts, shadows and flat surfaces that give you constantly changing view depending on your vantage point.

 

 

The angular shaped lugs are more streamlined and provide a seamless extension of the case as well as keep a close fit of the strap or band. The black ceramic crown has a functional octagonal grip that makes winding the watch an effortless task. The backside of the watch consists of a sapphire crystal caseback which displays the movement, the BVL 193 Caliber, fitted with twin barrels, a 50 hour power reserve.




 

This entry level Octo sports a smaller thinner case at 41.5mm wide and 10.55mm thick in size compared to Bulgari’s previous Octo models and is available in stainless steel as well as rose gold but I wouldn’t be surprised to see it in other metals in the future. Assembly of both case and movement plus case polishing are all carried out in-house.


 

Geometry of Perfection

 

The octagon shape embodies a great deal of meaning throughout various cultures and disciplinaries. It’s symbolic of themes like rebirth, infinity and totality. In baptisteries, the octagon was a shape that represented the idea of eternal life since the number eight is symbolic of renewal. Many of the architectural elements found in religious buildings such as churches and temples consisted of octogonal structures supporting a dome above. The interplay between the circle and square which makes up the octagon reflects a symmetrical balance between the elegance in fluidity and the starkness and strength of angularity.

 


In engineering terms it is known as the geometry of perfection, where curved edges meet straight edges. “In Eastern philosophy the circle historically represents heaven and the square earth, with the octagon being the perfect balance between the two and where the eight pillars of personality meet.”

 

Significance in the Chinese Culture

 

It is no surprise that the number eight has cultural significance  and appeal in Asian societies. Eight is symbolic of good fortune and prosperity and is often sought out in various forms from license plates, house numbers and phone numbers.

 

Bulgari is a brand that has a great deal of prestige and popularity in Asia so there were added advantages to expanding the Octo line over Genta’s other models like the Arena or Gefica. By emphasizing the watch’s 8-sided attribute in its descriptions and marketing scripts, Bulgari likely figured that it had a good chance of gaining appeal from one of its strongest markets. It will be interesting to see how Bulgari intends to  further develop the Octo case and line of watches in a creatively captivating manner.   


 

Without a doubt, the octagonal theme that started in the 1970s and is a central feature in this new extension of the Octo line will ensure that the watch is a sure success in the vast Chinese market. However Bulgari’s elegant and modern approach in styling the case will give the watch universal appeal as well.

Stay tuned for reviews of the dial and bracelet!



Bulgari Octo Watch with Stainless Steel Bracelet
Bulgari Octo Watch with Stainless Steel Bracelet



This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2014-02-28 23:39:26

A splendid report as always

 
 By: Spellbound : March 1st, 2014-01:19
This case is certainly a fascinating piece of "architecture". Is it a square? Is it a circle, or is it an Octagon. Well actually the design marries all three in an extremely cohesive manner.  
What I like about the Octo's in these guises is that Bulgari took a step back to simplicity and elegance. When you look at the Pre Bulgari Octo Bi-Retro and other Genta Octo's, the dials were strong and powerful in their use of bold colours like blood red. 
The new Octo's are a lesson in elegance. 
And the stainless steel bracelet is also a fabulous design and one of the nicest bracelets ever produced. 
Dean

Thank you Dean

 
 By: pingtsai : March 4th, 2014-22:02
Totally agree that they hit it out of the park with the bracelet. From male reports, it's one of the most comfortable metal bracelets they've tried. 

I love the Octo

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : March 1st, 2014-03:39
And Ping you never fail to make it more appealing to me! smile
Another great report from you on this lovely watch that getting iconic imho. Thank you for your report.

I tried it some weeks back (the basic Octo in black dial with steel bracelet). Really looks and feels very good.
I feel it is a bit too big for my extremely small wrist unfortunately sad

But I won't give up. Will try it again and just like some watches (eg my 41mm Montblanc Villeret), I may find it big at first but gradually accept their size. There is still hope so long as the lugs don't extend beyond my wrist and the Octo is fine in terms of that (more of the overall size of the case I need to get over).

Cheers
Robin

Hello Robin

 
 By: pingtsai : March 4th, 2014-22:03
Thank you for your comments. I think I can relate....sadly, I can't enjoy this watch either personally but must admire on someone else's wrist. 

A magnificent article ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : March 1st, 2014-06:17
... as usually! I was intrigued to find a treatise on the cultural aspects of the octogonal shape as well. If I may add a small detail, however, regarding the importance of the octogonal shape in Western religious tradition. You mentioned the octogonal churches. As a matter of fact, the octogon is very rare here, since the number 8 does not have a specific importance in Christian tradition. The only noteworthy ecclesiastic building of the early Christian period is S. Sergius and Bacchus in Constantinople, built under emperor Iustinian (ca. 530 AD). This was copied later, introducing the octogonal shape to Central Europe, in San Vitale in Ravenna (540 AD). finally, it was emperor Charles the Great who used this design for the "chapel" in his Aachen palace (ca. 800 AD), where his throne was (and still is) located. The common interpretation of this octogon is to be a combination of Roma quadrata and Jerusalema quadrata, the two holiest places in the Christian world. Nearly all baptisteria in Europe (mostly Southern Europe) are circular in layout.

Marcus

Thank you Marcus

 
 By: pingtsai : March 4th, 2014-22:04
Really appreciate the comments and feedback coming from you smile And thank you so much for adding all the background information. I've learned more!

Additional question:

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : March 6th, 2014-08:21
If an octogonal case is seen as something positive, then is a rectangular case something bad, because of its four edges?

Marcus

Hmm...not completely sure but

 
 By: pingtsai : March 6th, 2014-14:59
I don't think so. Many Chinese squares and courtyards are in square shape (Tiananmen Square) and Chinese watch company Seagull has square watches. 


Ping, you must be the most graceful writer on this site!

 
 By: cazalea : March 1st, 2014-10:45
When I read your stories I marvel; I wish I could write like this.

I want an Octa.

Cazalea

That is one of the nicest compliments...

 
 By: pingtsai : March 4th, 2014-22:13
....I could receive. Thank you so much Mike smile 
I'm so glad that Bulgari was able to make more of a connection with our watch community here with this watch. Seemed to finally open people's minds...if even just a little. Thanks again!

So torn by this one...!

 
 By: Esharp : March 2nd, 2014-06:11
Ping,

This is a lovely article - it really explains the watch, the design, and captures its appeal.  Thanks!

I was pretty spellbound when the new Octo was introduced.  It had a bit of that Genta magic, great style, and seemed an excellent complement to the likes of the Royal Oak.  The stepped case, the interplay of brushed finishes, yummy.  Even if I'm not a huge fan of the date, at least they did it with a black background and it's pretty small.  Oh yes, I was interested.

Then they introduced the bracelet!  Oh, I'm a sucker for bracelets.  

So I had to try it on as soon as it appeared in a nearby jewellers.  I was pretty excited!  But...sigh...yet another watch that seemed too big on me.  I think it's partly to do with the width of the bracelet where it meets the lugs.  Now, I can wear a 47mm Panerai, no problem; there's something to do with the way the lugs curve down that means it doesn't look ridiculous on me.  But the Octo just didn't work.  I looked like a boy trying on his dad's watch...

Anyone think there's a chance of a model that's a bit smaller, maybe about 38mm?


Aww man, what a shame

 
 By: pingtsai : March 4th, 2014-22:08
...but I can totally relate as I could never wear it either sadly. (same goes for the Royal Oaks) Even with the leather strap instead of the bracelet? But yes, it would be nice to see a slightly smaller version. Hopefully Bulgari is reading and will consider it someday. Thank you for your comments!

I'm not the only one!

 
 By: Esharp : March 5th, 2014-03:56
Ping, I just can't get Royal Oaks to sit right on my wrists either. Strangely enough, Offshores are ok - at least on leather or rubber straps - but the classic ROs? Nope. As with the Octo, I think it's something to do with the shape of the lugs and the wide, flat watch back. Either that or I've got weird wrists (entirely possible).

Ah well...!

Great review Ping

 
 By: AnthonyTsai : March 2nd, 2014-11:33

The Bulgari Octo is one damn sexy watch!  It has this unusual combination of conservative design mixed with contemporary styling.

The Octo chronograph is going to be another watch to look at for the sports watch fanatic.

Cheers,
Anthony

Thank you

 
 By: pingtsai : March 4th, 2014-22:09
and thanks for the awesome pictures as always and wrist shots !

The Octo is a perfect design ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : March 5th, 2014-00:58

... if only they would add at least some hints of luminosity to it. IN my opinion, the skeletonized hands do not serve any practical purpose, and also are not dominant enough to be a substantial component of the overall design. Consequently, the empty space would be a perfect place for SuperLuminova, which would make the Octo a true 24/7 watch.


Marcus

WONDERFUL article Ping, Thanks!

 
 By: MichaelC : March 2nd, 2014-12:00
This is a real sharp looking watch by Bulgari.  I'm sure it will be a success.

I think it already has been Michael...

 
 By: pingtsai : March 4th, 2014-22:10
....thanks!

Thanks a lot Ping for this great article!

 
 By: foversta : March 5th, 2014-13:37
I love the bracelet on this watch, it is perfect. I prefer it with the bracelet rather than with the leather strap: it enhances the beauty of the case.

Fx