Zenith Coffeehouse Tales XIV: El Primero 42mm Austria Edition hands-on review

Oct 05, 2015,13:13 PM
 

With the last two series of Coffeehouse Tales strongly focused on sporty watches, I would now take a turn and present a Zenith watch of quite different, decidedly elegant appearance but still full of moral fiber: the El Primero 42mm Austria Edition in 18kt red gold and a black dial:


 
With this watch, Zenith has utilised the eternal recipe of success, i.e. combining the warmth of red gold with the mysterious darkness of black:



That alone would fill the books of a considerable number of watch lovers (and mine as well, I have to admit), but Zenith went one step further: they drilled recesses into the dial to host the chronograph dials on the horizontal axis, thereby creating additional thrill through adding a third dimension to the dial:



The effect is quite remarkable, particularly in the context of a very classical, elegant and reduced dial. Elongated indices counterpoise the subdials, with the effect that structure and functionality are emphasised but not at the expense of the watch's elegance.

The 'sunken' subdials have a radial concentric pattern to them, thus offering on top a different ability to catch and reflect light. Futhermore, the subdials are properly separated without cutting into each other (that should be a matter of course, but unfortunately is not).

Just look at the image below - isn't it amazing, this thrilling tension between dial surface, the small subdials and the longish indices?



If I may voice a small criticism here than it would be - as usual and like I have been stressing time and time again - that the focus is thus given to the permanent subseconds and the minute counter, but not the hours counter. In other words, the choice of design elements are mixed up in respect to the respective functions of the elements. It might be considered splitting hairs, but I have to note this in a watch produced by a venerable chronograph manufactory!

The pushers have a slightly ellipsoid shape which offers a precise, very nicely-tuned pusher feel. A notch in the case back facilitates a grip on the crown (a practical detail seen in many Zenith timepieces).



In respect to the movement, no surprises here: The famous Zenith El Primero Cal. 400 comes in its original form, with a nicely sculptured Zenith Star as most obvious aesthetic decoration.




Now for the best part: This particular version is a real marvel on the wrist, combining timeless beauty with a mesmerising personality and character.



While so-called 'timeless' watches are not exactly rare, often they do lack a certain 'punch' (which might confer the timelessliness, in other words, the lack of a unique point). This one is different, it is a beauty with a second, (literally) dark side, a watch with a mystery.



The most intriguing aspect of this watch is that it is ageless as well - a very fitting match to youngsters as well as for more 'experienced' wearers. This is not a small feat!



Thanks for reading,
Magnus


Our location:
This time, we chose a branch of the Café Aida. Aida is a famous name in Vienna, being founded by a certain 1883-born Bohemian immigrant named Josef Prousek. In 1913 Josef Prousek and his Austrian wife Rosa bought the confectionery Bonsaing at Porzellangasse 47 in Vienna’s 9th district and founded Chocolaterie u. Gross-Konditorei "AIDA" Prousek & Co. Quite early on, the Aida confectionery opened several sales outlet and ran them as a combined café - confectionery.

Surprisingly, all of the branches survived WWII, partly because the Allied forces requisitioned the businesses to produce supplies for their hospitals. Later on, production and sales were separated into singular business entities, but are still being run as a family business with the grandson of the founder, Michael Prousek, now being at the helm and the great-grandson meanwhile part of the management.

As of 2013 AIDA is expanding internationally with branches opening in Zagreb (Croatia), Krakow (Poland), and Jeddah (Saudi Arabia). In all branches, Aida is known for its rosé interior.



This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-10-06 12:52:17


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Red gold and black dial: I love this combo!

 
 By: foversta : October 7th, 2015-12:56
Of course, it is not the most discreet one but it gives a lot of character to the watch. Thanks a lot for your article because I will not see it here in France. Fx

Very nice version!

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : October 7th, 2015-13:32
Black and gold is always good looking! Best Blomman

It looks as a very nice sporty classic with this combination

 
 By: Mark in Paris : October 7th, 2015-15:11
I'd like to see it in the metal. Thanks Magnus. Cheers, Mark

'Sporty classic' - and very versatile which I think is a crucial attribute at its price-point...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : October 11th, 2015-09:05
because from many a Zenith (and other technical brands) might well be the only fine watch they could ever afford. Thus, a design which makes the watch easy to combine with multiple dress codes and which also gives 'spice' - is certainly a winning combinat... 

Agreed [nt]

 
 By: Mark in Paris : October 11th, 2015-14:58

It is a classic yet very 'noticeable' combination

 
 By: KMII : October 10th, 2015-03:19
While not nearly as prominent as the gold / steel combo you reviewed recently, this El Primero will definitely not become one of the under the radar watches. It has a lot of presence - in a good way. The choice of markets for the watch is interesting, too... 

Zenith's appreciation in Eastern European markets...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : October 11th, 2015-09:02
might be due to its 'technical' focus which the brand somehow shares with IWC, another technical brand which historically is highly regarded in the same markets. With this watch I think Zenith demonstrated that the brand is able to combine its matchmaking... 

Sounds right

 
 By: KMII : October 11th, 2015-11:25
With many other products I have experienced exactly what you are describing - a much higher technical focus in EE, so it should be intuitive that this is so with watches, too. I guess another reason for the many Boutiques could also be the lack of long st... 

A really nice edition

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : October 10th, 2015-06:01
Black dial with pink gold! I must admit I love this combo a lot. Thanks for highlighting Zenith\'s attention to details on the design of the dial. Agree the overall effect gave the dial a lot of depth Great pics and read. Thank you my friend Cheers Robin

Dear Robin, for me, true watchmaking excellence...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : October 11th, 2015-09:03
lies exactly in these tiny details and how they are not only executed, but moreover, how they are conceptualised. Thanks for noting this. Best, Magnus

One thing for the records...

 
 By: kolosstt : October 24th, 2015-18:47
... Is it a limited edition? Quick thoughts: Nice watch, right size with precious metal and black color combo. Interesting! Best Kolosstt