But judging from your taste, which seems similar to mine, longines and omega wouldn't be remiss. Specifically, longines 'tre tacche' and omega dress watches from the 1940s and 1950s. Before a certain time, they had no reference numbers and were known by their movements (e.g., 30 T2). After that, the CK859 and CK2186 are some of my favourite references for dress watches; CK2077 for chronographs. They're small (33 to 38 mm case diameter) though!