Wachnut
147
Great theme for this weekend!
Mar 26, 2023,06:24 AM
Dear Abel , it’s very interesting to think through this process. When considering what I would tell someone just starting out but not particularly interested in watches/ collecting per se , I would think primarily in terms of pricing categories first and foremost ( irrespective of their purchasing power and even if he could afford more ) . Assuming that , I would keep things within the sub-1k$ to 10k$ range , starting at the lower end and building up to the highest ( 10kish ) amount
That is because I think as collectors we sometimes forget just how strange it can seem to people outside the watch community on the eye watering sums that these things cost and it usually seems unjustified to them , as it’s difficult to absorb paying the same amount for a watch as for say a car or jewellery ( just mentioning 2 categories that people more intuitively grasp paying a large sum of money for even if they are not particularly into those items per se ) .
So starting off at the lower end ( say $500 - 1.5k roughly ) , I would recommend they get a watch which combines 2 or 3 aspects which make watches interesting , but contained in a single package that offers excellent value . For eg , a titanium ( materials ) diver ( category ) with a 80 hour power reserve ( feature ) from a notable Swiss house ( swatch group) like this Mido Ocean Star below 👇. But equally a no of watches from the likes of Hamilton , Bulova , Tissot and of course Seiki would easily make the cut .
Next moving up to the 2.5 - 4K category , I would recommend a reasonably priced GMT as this is a complication ( that of a second time zone or hand ) that most newbies can easily grasp and appreciate. For eg , this B&R GMT or even this Anonimo Dual Time watch below ( admitted the latter may be a bit over the top for someone not into watches standalone, but what I meant was the concept of second time zone viewed separately on the dial is one easily appreciated even by a novice )
Next , moving to $5-7K , I would suggest something iconic ( incorporating at least a chronograph so that they feel like they are getting at least an additional complication beyond just time as they move up the price spectrum , and which looks good of course but is also interesting in some other way , with an interesting history behind it , and can be worn on any kind of occasion) . Say like one of the Navitimers below
Finally in the 10k category, would suggest something more dressy or classic , it should be a brand that is recognised as a luxury marquee beyond just watches so there is broader familiarity across products , but also has something additional like an interesting story or name for what the thinking behind this particular watch is . And it should have a nicely finished movement with a visible case back - Because at 10k which unfortunately often barely scratches the surface in our watch world , most people expect to get something worth a lot at that price .
As such for this I would pick the Montblanc Nicholas Rieussec piece
If I may add one last comment , I suspect it’s something many in this forum would not agree to but I feel makes sense is that since microbrands offer a lot of value and choice nowadays , in and off themselves of course but also maybe as a stepping stone to higher end brands by giving users a choice to experience how they feel about that “ kind “ of a watch on the wrist . Because let’s face it , many of them are homages ( some would say rip-offs 🙂) of more iconic watches .
But for eg , before spending many thousands or 10s of thousands on say a high end diver with a ceramic bezel and famed history , maybe spend a fraction on the “ equivalent “ from a microbrand which is a homage or something approaching it in terms of broad features and looks and decide whether you would like the look on your wrist for long periods of time ? Do you really care ? Does it matter ? Or are you happy to stick to basics and spend the ( substantial ) balance elsewhere ?
Which purpose can then be served admirably by something like this 👇( and yes , it does have a ceramic bezel 😛)