What’s in a dial? Everything. You can have a poor movement or the very best, and elegant case, rarity of metal, but ultimately “she” has to look beautiful- at least in your eyes.
The dial is possibly, no it is, the most important part in the desirability of a watch. Evidence? Green dial 5711, Salmon dials, Paul Newman, underlines, double signed, exclamation points, tropical, do I need to go on? Just look at the sheer desire for salmon dials- look at AP Royal Oak, 5270p, the new releases this year- oh and a certain 5970G that often pops up now and again on this forum 😊. The difference between an Asprey signed and “standard” dial 2499 runs in the $$millions.
With Patek, for a long time and even now Breguet dials are coveted by collectors. In the past the black Breguet dial was the ultimate. I think it is easily sharing top spot with salmon now.
The Calatrava ref 96 is easily the most significant watch in the company’s history. It saved the company. It was the Sterns get out of jail card, an almost divine intervention the history. The 96 was accompanied by the highly desirable larger 35.5mm version- the reference 570.This reference especially in steel and platinum is highly sought-after. However, in this reference there is a particular dial version that eclipses all others. The two tone Breguet dial. This dial has become the “Paul Newman” of Patek Philippe, only is much rarer. It also made its way into other references too, these being exceptionally rare.
The 96 gave way to 3796, and the 5196 is in the natural heir to the 570. Patek graced this most exemplary dial in the platinum version.
After years in the shadows, the 5196 has become a modern classic that is now getting the praise it deserves and is especially in platinum becoming very sought after.
Now let me show you “Easter eggs”. The biggest collector of these dials, and possibly the finest collection of Calatrava will be on show in London in May- the Oak Collection. The collector Patrick Getreide has commissioned unique pieces in all the metals of 5196. The platinum version has the blue dial. The others are here in this Oak Collection IG picture:
I hope I can arrange some pictures- I will try.