Patek Philippe

spurred me, with support from knowledgeable Patek collectors, to perform research on how I think the Cubitus came about and its implications   This post is intended for sharing with members some historical perspectives of the developments of the Aquanaut and other references which IMO would be relevant on understanding the Cubitus.  Your thoughts/comments are naturally welcomed !

After the "emotional" start when information was released on Cubitus, I want to thank you all for being cordial in your posts and discussions.  As more of you get a chance to try these new watches, please share your experiences.  For me, it is a rare opportunity to be living through the launch of a new line for Patek as a Patek moderator, because in 1997, my Patek journey had not yet begun, even though I knew the brand was at the top.  Hence, comments from collectors/enthusiasts from different countries of various ages, cultures and knowledge regarding this post represent a great way to learn and understand more.     

When I first saw photos of Cubitus, I was a bit taken aback due to its unexpected shape.  However, I could not point to what I had wanted from the new line, except certain linkage to Nautilus.  After reading more reviews and seeing additional photos/videos, I got more accustomed to its looks, similar to me getting an acquired taste on uni (sea urchin, a yellow seafood usually served in Japanese cuisine), but was still sceptical on its 45mm size.  When I saw 5821/1AR with fellow member Esharp, I felt its thinness on the wrist and, although it was a bit big for my small wrist, I thought that I could pull it off without it being like a clock on me.

After seeing the 5822P and 5821/1A, they grew more on me, even though I still preferred the Nautilus and Aquanaut because of their smoother lines.  By talking to collectors who received allocations and explained their feelings, I decided to delve into the Patek history on shaped watches along with the Sculpture and Neptune watches with both having certain DNA from the Nautilus.

Given Thierry's wish to create a square watch, my thinking is that he had known that non-rounded pieces (other than Nautilus and Aquanaut) are usually not the most popular ones, although they are interestingly unusual from a visual perspective.  Since Cubitus is his first new line, he wanted to make a statement piece because it would be his legacy.  As the fourth-generation owner, Thierry needed to create a watch that has Patek DNA and lineage that he felt would resonate with changing tastes of collectors, similar to what his father did in 1997 when Aquanaut was launched for sportier and younger collectors.  The newer collectors now are influenced by social media which has become part of our society.  Should Patek adapt to the new world, stick to old traditions, or try to strike a balance ?  What would you do if you owned Patek and what design would you have made for a new sports line ? 

When Nautilus was launched in 1976 as the most expensive watch using steel, it took a while before it became popular because of its shape and material.  In 1996, when the 5060S (Aquanaut's predecessor without the left ear of Nautilus and a crown protector which seemed like a smaller right ear) was released, it was within the Nautilus line.  It seemed that Patek was testing whether a similar shaped watch to Nautilus deserved a new line.  I find the Aquanaut very similar to Nautilus in that the dial and bezel have the same shape with the key differences being in the ears and rubber strap.

Finally in 1997, the 5060A became the first piece of Aquanaut line.  Based on articles and comments from long-term Patek collectors, Aquanaut had mixed reviews initially but took quite quickly.  The younger sibling is now regarded as a very desirable line that stands on its own.

In 1996, another new elegant sports line, Neptune (5080, 5085, and variants over the years), was launched.  It had less DNA to Nautilus vs Sculpture, but retained some similarities in terms of integrated bracelet and a small ear/crown guard on the right.    The Neptune line continued till 2002 and then was stopped, perhaps due to lack of ability to reach a target audience of significant scale.  On the other hand, Aquanaut was popular and thrived.    

Getting back to Cubitus, IMO it is not a square Nautilus but a derivative of Nautilus with a true octagon shape.  Why did Thierry decide on this unusual design ?  I think he wanted to lead the market by launching a shaped watch that is historically not popular.  Other more pure square watches have been produced by Patek, such as the 2514 around 1950s and 2424 around late 40s.  I believe that he needed to push the market to a different direction as his legacy.  Patek owners are stakeholders and we together with new collectors will decide with our pocket books.  Similar to Aquanaut, Cubitus has a strong lineage to the iconic Genta design with a thinness which to me is comfortable on the wrist.  Naturally different complications will come out from this new line, just like travel time 5164 and chrono 5968 for Aquanaut.  How will they be received by the market ?  Time will tell.

In terms of Cubtus's large 45mm dial, I was at first perplexed why such a large size when the trend is going back to smaller sizes.  Putting myself in Thierry's shoes, I would like to go at the opposite direction of the industry to demonstrate the ability of the Patek brand to lead.  Whether Thierry will be successful, again time will tell.  

Much has been said about why the price point for an entry sports watch is so high at US$40k for steel.  My take is that, given the premium in the secondary prices for Nautilus and Aquanaut, Patek wants to keep some of the margins.  To me, this US$40k price is now the entry for steel sports under Cubitus in that Nautilus and Aquanaut will make more precious metal pieces.  At the end, Patek is a family business and it is here to make profits while providing us WIS happy journeys.

As a comparison, when AP launched the Code 11.59, there is a subtle yet loud linkage to the Royal Oak in that the mid case is an octagon.  Initial feedback (including me) was mainly negative for several years, but AP stuck it out with different iterations.  When the steel version came out with mesmerizing concentric circles in the dial, I was hooked and got the green version.  Now with various complications on the Code, such as star wheels and perpetual calendar with blue aventurine dial, this watch is beginning to gain traction.

Thanks for reading and let’s open it up for discussions.