Patek Philippe

Hands on review of the Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic

 

Patek Philippe has just unveiled in Milan its latest ladies' watch, the Twenty-4 Automatic. Let's make no mistake about it: I consider this launch as the most important one from the Geneva brand this year. Because it is a collection that aims to generate volume and because it is  dedicated to a clientele that must represent a significant growth relay.

The industry is convinced of this: women are now perceived as a market with more potential because the equipment rate in mechanical watches is lower and they express more and more interest in this type of watchmaking. And for Patek Philippe, the stakes are twofold: it is not only a goal of growth but also of securing sales because the Twenty-4, the famous rectangular quartz watch presented in 1999, has become the years, an undeniable success.

A smartly thought watch ...



... and well done...

I had the chance to handle the watch and I was convinced by the seriousness of its manufacturing. The Patek Philippe touch is felt in the finish of the movement, certainly without particular difficulty but very neat, the presentation and the comfort of the bracelet obtained thanks to its flexibility, the sunray finish of the dial (on the version I could see), the applied numerals and some aesthetic details of the case. For example, I appreciated the integration of the bracelet into the case and the shape of the bezel on which the round gem-setting rests. The overall finishes are flawless, faithful to the standards of the manufacture and the clasp breathes quality.



The other detail that contributes to this identity, although less noticeable, is the pair of main hands. Obviously longer with the automatic version, they keep the spatula shape of the original model. In fact, they now look much like the hands of the Nautilus which is a good point for Patek Philippe... and its clients!

... but too consensual!

Patek Philippe saw very well the strategic dimension of the Twenty-4 Automatic. And by the way, we can  feel it. It is the usual problem of watches with an ambitious goal: risk-taking is generally outlawed and the design becomes, like the global luxury from major brands that should appeal in New York or in Shanghai, over consensual.

Consensual is the term we use when we are polite. When we are a bit rude, it is rather the adjective of boring that we use. I would not go so far as with  the Twenty-4 Automatic: Patek Philippe is too smart to avoid falling into the trap by distilling here and there details that enhance the overall aesthetic. But from my point of view, the result singularly lacks audacity and energy and the watch looks too much like a calibrated product. The Twenty-4 Automatic is clean, well made, not unpleasant and comfortable: but I expect much better from Patek Philippe, which is the leading brand in the Haute Horlogerie segment.


An idea that could have been better exploited

I sincerely think that Patek Philippe has been too cautious and has controlled too many details. In a Twenty-4, context the brand could have gone further and fully play on the concept of the next 24 hours. If the watch must really accompany a modern woman, it must be able to adapt itself to all circumstances, offer a better water resistance (the Twenty-4 Automatic has a water resistance of 30 meters) and, let's dare the idea, propose a system of quick change of bracelets to be more flexible and adaptable ... as are our lives in 2018.


The true  originality: the communication campaign





The Twenty-4 Automatic collection is currently available in steel  (23,660 euros) or pink gold (41,150 euros) with all cases featuring a set bezel. A model offers a bracelet with set edges.

Pros:
+ the seriousness of manufacturing
+ the performance and reliability of the movement 324 SC
+ the availability of steel versions

Cons:
- a design which is too consensual
This message has been edited by Baron - Mr Red on 2018-10-16 04:17:21

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