By: India Whiskey Charlie : April 24th, 2020-16:38
A neatly organised, open dial with small seconds at 6 o’clock: IWC’s Reference 325 in the late 1930s established a classic design idiom that has run as a common thread through the history of the Portugieser family ever since. Identical design cues later appeared virtually unmodified in the Portugieser anniversary edition (Ref. 5441), the Portugieser Minute Repeater (Ref. 5240), the Portugieser F.A. Jones Limited Edition (Ref. 5442) and the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days (Ref. 5102).
Now the timelessly modern design returns to the collection in a new automatic model with a compact case diameter of 40 millimetres. Ticking away inside the Portugieser
Automatic 40 (Ref. 3583) is the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre. The robust, high-quality automatic movement has a Pellaton winding system with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic, which builds up a power reserve of 60 hours. A sapphire glass back provides an unimpeded view of the decorated movement. Four versions are available in 18-carat 5N gold or stainless steel. A newly developed butterfly folding clasp on the stainless steel models makes them particularly comfortable to wear.
IWC have absolutely nailed it! 40mm is going to make a lot of people happy!
By: LX (Alex) : April 24th, 2020-18:46
I hope to see this one on many peoples' wrists soon. I really like the direction IWC has taken over the past two years! In-house movements with a more realistic pricing than previously and a good evolution in the Portugese and Pilot lines.
This is a good choice for those who want a smaller diameter and automatic winding. The lack of 'Automatic' printed on the dial and the lack of a date are positives in my opinion. I also like that the movement has some skeletonisation to it so that you can see the gear train instead of having a bridge covering everything expect the balance wheel. However, the cost of automatic winding is the 12.4mm thickness. I also feel that the movement is on the smaller side at 30mm, giving a 3:4 movement to case ratio whereas the pocket watch based Portugiesers had 37.8mm movements in 42mm cases.
I wish IWC would also offer a 42mm manual wind using the 98xxx calibre with the 'International Watch Co' cursive script for collectors. The 98xxx pocket watch movements are more in line with the lineage of the original Portugiesers and would allow the watch to be 10mm in thickness like the 5454 since these movements are 4.7mm instead of the 6.6mm of the 82xxx calibres.