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Introducing LUC Chopard St Moritz Chronograph Ref.8386 Blue Dial 38mm cal.1185

 
 By: Soyuz : January 29th, 2018-06:28




Hi there. It has been a long time from my last post...I spent a lot of time choosing my new one wink I was looking for a new chronograph, something that satisfied me... after many years of collection it's getting more complicated... During my life of watches enthusiast I've had so many chronographs (Daytona, speed, chronomaster, a couple of vintage best calibers...) But not yet an FP chronograph. I wanted to fill the gap... I like so much the Hublot Big Bang and AP royal Oak style, but I prefer normal size watches...and at the moment that watches is not through my budget. So I was thinking to pass and to looking for other models with an FP caliber...like Blancpain Air Command or Omega Broad Arrow...but I wasn't sure and I decided to hold on... ...until one day casually I discover that reference and it was exactly what I had in my mind. And I'll be honest that I have never considered Chopard before. But there was another problem ... That watch is really hard to find!!! Here in Italy is totally unknown and in Europe only some dealers have the white version, but I was in love for the blue. So...when I found one, even if it was in Japan, I did not hesitate to pull the trigger! And finally on my wrist! Chopard St Moritz Chronograph ref 8386 In that watch we can feel the "Genta's touch" (GG works many time in Chopard) Case: 38mm Steel/Steel with an "Celtic cross" shape bezel with 8 screws, steel caseback with central sapphire crystal to show the movement.The size and shape of the case (excluding the bezel) remembers too the 1970's Zenith El Primero ref. A384 : the 3 counter config and date window between 4 and 5 gives it something of vintage zenith chronographs... So I think, if you want to give it an touch of vintage style, that is the best with an Gay Frères style bracelet. Dial: nicely finished and special metallic blue colour who change shade second inclination. Applied steel polish indexes, lumed on the scale. Crown: screwdown crown signed LUC WR: 10ATM Movement: finally got the Frédéric Piguet 1185 !! This movement is awesome. Great looking and feeling with very smooth pushers. Best caliber I owned IMHO. Band/buckle: black alligator strap with signed buckle. The buckle shape follow the case design and it is really comfortable. I've found on the web the config with bracelet: the original bracelet remembers a Vacheron overseas, but is not easy to find and I don't know if I prefer with or without it. Final consideration: - If you like AP/Hublot style but you have an 1/3 budget - If you like normal size watches with an little touch of vintage style - if you want an Genta on your wrist - If you hate fakes and hommages - if you like to "think different" The answer is Chopard St Moritz. Thanks for looking. Hope you enjoy! Best regards Andrea



























































Thanks for this great review of a very cool watch!

 
 By: KMII : January 29th, 2018-07:28
Been looking at one of these for a while, so your review has been very helpful. Definitely an interesting piece smile

Chopard St Moritz

 
 By: Soyuz : January 29th, 2018-07:30
Thanks for appreciate it

Love the depth of the dial!

 
 By: JToddH : January 29th, 2018-07:48
Multi-level dials can make or break a piece IMO. Chopard has done a nice job by varying the depth in different areas.

I like the shape of the bezel though I'm not sure how I feel about the paired screws. Chopard is between a rock and a hard place on this issue.

AP has 8-screws and Hublot with 6. Odd numbers look weird. 4 is too few and more than 8 is too many. Hublot MDM tried 12 back in the day, but that was way too many. So where do you go from there?




Chopard St Moritz Chronograph

 
 By: Soyuz : January 29th, 2018-08:33
Thanks for appreciate it.
Screws layout is cool IMHO. And I love the effect of Polished screws heads inside the brushed bezel. It remember too an evolution of the Breitling "Knights" on chronomat bezels...

Thank you for this story and big congratulations for this new Chopard

 
 By: Alkiro1 : January 29th, 2018-08:17
You’re absolutely right about it. I remember I saw mainly of them in white and not with a chrono function. Yours is in really good state.

Great find after such a hunt. Enjoy and wear it in the best of your health.

Best wishes

Alkiro

Chopard

 
 By: Soyuz : January 29th, 2018-08:36
Thanks for your kindness and for appreciate it!

My pleasure 🙏

 
 By: Alkiro1 : January 29th, 2018-09:35
Best wishes

Alkiro

Rare indeed

 
 By: MTF : January 29th, 2018-11:42
Soyuz,

That is a rare watch.
I've not seen one in real life before.
Thanks for showing.

It's in good condition probably because it was in Japan and was not a daily wearer.

I'm interviewing the St. Moritz project manager tomorrow and will find out more.

Regards
MTF

Thanks

 
 By: Soyuz : January 29th, 2018-12:18
Many thanks for appreciate it and your interest. Looking forward to have your updates!

Awesome Soyuz

 
 By: Gelato Monster : January 29th, 2018-18:59
So much character in this chopard st moritz. 

Thanks!

 
 By: Soyuz : January 30th, 2018-00:01
Thanks for appreciate it. All the best

A very wise move

 
 By: kolosstt : January 30th, 2018-01:13
Dear Andrea,

this is one of my favorite watches and I am so happy that you post it. I have to admit that I never had the chance to handle one, but the online pictures make it to the favorite it is to me. Your wirst shots are something unique that you can barely find online. Thanks a lot for this pleasure for the eyes.

A forgotten referencee whose appeeal speaks for tiself. 

I am very glad for you that you opted for the blue chronograph. Just the best out of the St. Moritz collection.

Enjoy it in best health and let us know how your relationship develops. 

For me, it is now even more urgent to finally get my hands onto one.

Cheers and thanks for sharing,
kolosstt

Thanks for your interest

 
 By: Soyuz : January 30th, 2018-01:49
Dear kolosstt
You're right.
This is an forgotten reference an I don't know why Chopard hasn't bet on that piece with better advert campaign. It has nothing to envy to similar competitors (RO or GP Laureato, or Zenith El Primero...For example). That piece (Born in latest 90 / early 2000s) deserve to be disclosed to the watch enthusiast's world.
Thanks for appreciate it.
Cheers
Andrea

So rare.... but I remember this and still love it.

 
 By: KIH : January 31st, 2018-01:36
Bezel design is a bit unusual for Chopard L.U.C, but symmetry screw heads are perfectly aligned.  Aesthetically superb watch....

Thanks for sharing!

Ken

Thank you very much

 
 By: Soyuz : January 31st, 2018-04:31
I'm very happy you like it. Regards Andrea

Information from Chopard: St Moritz design was entirely in-house and NOT by Gerald Genta

 
 By: MTF : January 31st, 2018-02:53

Soyuz,


I spoke with the original project manager of the St Moritz watch design team today.

He said that the original St Moritz design is in-house Chopard in origin and that the late Gerald Genta was not involved.




Chopard St Moritz

The original shape was an uneven octagon, in effect, a tonneau with eight sides. The eight screws are functional to hold a gasket between the bezel and the watch. At that time, it was Chopard's first steel sports watch with resistance to damp (30m), a remarkable feat for the time. It allowed wear with a smart city suit, casual clothes and even formal evening use.

The watch had been in development for 18 months and was previewed by some Hong Kong dealers in 1979. When questioned about Chopard's ability to produce reliable water resistant sports watches, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele recklessly tossed his prototype into a champagne bucket and retrieved it 2 hours later...still working. Suitable impressed, the dealers and many others ordered 1000 watches on the first day of the Basel trade show in 1980; a remarkable result for the time.




Chopard St Moritz

In 1981, models with set diamonds and coloured gems were introduced. Then, followed by St Moritz Golf, St Moritz Tennis and St Moritz Black wristwatches. There was even a St Moritz table clock. In 1982, the first fully water resistant (100m) skeletonised St Moritz caused a stir and the moon phase model launched in 1983.

In 1998, the St Moritz collection was redesigned for a fresher look but retaining the shape and bezel screws. Automatic and Chronograph movements were available.


I can now reveal that the "St Moritz project manager" was a twenty-year old Karl-Friedrich Scheufele.....


Regards,

MTF





Scheufele family at Basel trade show (Caroline, Karl III, Karin and Karl-Friedrich)


Thanks MTF...

 
 By: Soyuz : January 31st, 2018-04:37
For that precious information. I'm so happy to have that certain updates about that stunning timepiece. I'm going to write an Italian version to that introduction and your help is very important.
If you can find other informations about my specific reference, please do not hesitate to update that topic.
Kindly regards.
Andrea