H. Moser & Cie @ Baselworld 2014 – Part 1 – The New Venturer
H. Moser & Cie @ Baselworld 2014 – Part 1 – The New Venturer
I visited the H. Moser Lounge at the Ramada – as usual stylish and refined but this year with a new design, following the renewed Corporate Design that was introduced last year.
The big news this year is a arrival called the Venturer. All existing models so far are now grouped under the collection “Endeavour”, so for example the Perpetual 1 is now called the Endeavour Perpetual calendar. As well part of the now called Endeavour collection are the Dual Time, the Moon Phase, as well as the former Mayu (now called Endeavour small seconds) and Monard (now Endeavour centre seconds resp. Big Date). The tonneau shaped Henry double hairspring has been dropped. '
COLLECTION OVERVIEW – ENDEAVOUR
· Endeavour Perpetual Calendar – 6 references in white gold, rose gold and platinum
· Endeavour Moon – 2 references in rose gold and platinum
· Endeavour Dual Time – 2 references in rose gold and platinum
· Endeavour Big Date – 3 references in rose and white gold
· Endeavour Centre Seconds – 7 references in rose and white gold
· Endeavour Small Seconds – 7 references in red, rose and white gold
· Endeavour Special Editions – 5 references
More important that the renaming of the collections is the new model, the Venturer. I was told that the former Mayu will not be replaced – despite the new venture being as well a small second three hand model.
Venturer small seconds
The Venturer Collection features a new in-house manufacture movement, the Calibre HMC 327, with three days power reserve and a power reserve indication of the backside of the movement. I am fond of this solution since it keeps the dial very clean while still providing the important reserve indication.
The new movement includes state-of-the art technology in the form of a silicon anchor with ruby pallets and a silicon escape wheel. Silicon is anti-magnetic and confers low-friction; benefits which cannot be ignored. . The in-house Straumann Hairspring® features a hand-applied Breguet overcoil, enhancing isochronism. The balance wheel includes gold screws facilitating precise poising of the balance.
Technical data of the movement
· In-house hand-wound Calibre HMC 327
· Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 ¼ lignes
· Height: 4.4 mm
· Frequency: 18’000 vib/h
· 28 jewels
· Power reserve: minimum 3 days
· Hacking seconds
· Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
· Original Straumann® hairspring with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Case
· 18-carat red gold, three-part
· Diameter: 39.0 mm, height: 12.5 mm
· Curved sapphire crystal
· See-through sapphire crystal case-back
· Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
Dials
· Red gold fumé, ardoise or argenté with sunburst pattern
· Appliqué indexes
· 18-carat red gold hands
Here is the red gold version with the argenté dial (silver). The bezel and the lugs are much slimmer than the ones of the Mayu. The idices are similar, however the “12” of the Mayu has been dropped and replaced by a double index. A clean and good solution.
Domed sapphire crystal. I like the curved resp. sculptured case. Very sensual and elegant.
The dial is curved and so are the hands
Movement side (movement decoration in prototype fashion). The movement features a silicon anchor with ruby pallets and a silicon escape wheel, while the movement of the Mayu has an anchor and an anchor wheel made of gold.
The Venturer small seconds is available in the following versions:
· Reference 2327-0401, red gold model, red gold fumé dial, brown strap
· Reference 2327-0402, red gold model, ardoise dial, brown strap
· Reference 2327-0400, red gold model, argenté dial, brown strap
Solid gold buckle.
Finally a wrist shot of the Venturer. The hands at 12 o’clock is a coincidence….it was indeed noon when I took the picture.
Overall a very nice new model that is consistent to the high-end watches of Moser, however in a more modern, fresh look. I was told that the prices for the venture will be a notch above the Mayu.
The name Venturer Small Seconds promises other derivate in the same case and with the same base movement - a center second would certainly be logical and fitting the clean dial very well.
I could have time to take pictures of the other dial versions (ardoise and red gold fumee dial) so I attach some pictures of the press release.
Red gold fumė dial
ardoise (slate) grey
ardoise (slate) grey
What is your opinion on Moser’s fresh take on the small seconds?
Which version is your favourite?
Best,
Stefan
...and you are right, it adds an interesting vintage element to the watch.
Stefan
I am not sure it looks like a volcano, I would say rather not.
Of course this is very personal. I liked it since it adds an interesting element to the dial without loosing its clean dial.
You have to see it on your wrist, I guess, to come to a good judgment.
Best
Stefan
I recently acquired the Monard (erm...Endeavour) Big Date and Monard (oiy...Endeavour!) Centre Seconds. I very much like the shape of the case on those. This appears to be a more svelt version of it. I'd think the 39mm will be an ideal case size since that wisp of a bezel will yield a vast visible dial surface which I imagine will appear larger than it's spec would suggest. That domed crystal has a handsome vintage look to it. Did you notice much glare from its form? I do wonder whether it will be a whack magnet. The convex dial looks more pronounced in their media images than in the few pictures I've seen, including yours.
I intend to add a rose gold, grey dial dress piece to the collection this year and have been strongly considering the Arnold and Son HMS1, but am now considering this Venturer Slate as an alternative. Both of my Monards had defects upon delivery and were immediately dispatched to Alkis in NYC for service (one of the biggest reasons I felt comfortable acquiring Mosers is because Mr Kotsopoulos, the sole authorized watchmaker for servicing Langes in the US and who enjoys an impeccable reputation amongst Lange owners, is also the sole authorized watchmaker for servicing Moser here). As much as I appreciate Alkis' skills, if the movement has a flaw that the company won't stand behind, my Moser buying will be over. But I've read interviews with their new CEO Meylan in which he has stated that new owner/managers are committed to quality and customer satisfaction, so I'm optimistic that I'll be adding a Venturer.
I understand they intend to introduce another new line in 2016, plus increase production from their current 1,000 pieces annually to possibly 3,000. I like that not only are they immune from any decisions by Mr Hayek to limit ETA ebauche availability beyond Swatch Group brands (as recently upheld in Swiss court), but that with their in-house Straumann hairspring, they won't miss a beat should Nivarox be allowed to cease supply to non-Swatch brands of the 'bits and pieces.' I don't understand the physical characteristics of the Straumann, but I don't get the impression that it has the non-magnetic properties of the parachrom bleu nor certainly of the Si-14. I wonder if having the pallet fork and escape wheel made of silicon is sufficient to provide an equal degree of protection against magnetization, or if they'll need to eventually add a silicium hairspring to stay competitive in their segment, especially with Breguet.
...of H. Moser & Cie pieces and thanks for sharing the interesting information about servicing Moser in the US, which as a European I was not aware.
May I ask what defects your two Moser's had upon delivery? I am surprised to read that...one would expect the watch to be perfect when it is delivered to the customers, however flaws can happen everywhere, I guess.
As a vivid Moser collector, you might be interested in my visit report to Moser back in 2011 (if you don't already know it) it comes in two parts
Hope to see some pictures of your Moser timepieces
Have a good day and regards from Switzerland
Stefan
I had not discovered those earlier posts of yours during my previous searches, and I enjoyed reading them just now. With the transportation provided, I might have asked to be excused immediately after lunch!
I was certainly disappointed that my two pieces were not perfect upon receipt, but it's happened to me with other high-end brands, and I've read posts by others on the various forums about similar experiences when one buys from a distant AD and has not had the benefit of seeing the piece first hand prior to purchase. Sadly, it happens, but the sign of brand management's integrity and commitment to long term customer satisfaction is how they respond to such situations. I was very pleased that Moser immediately authorized Alkis to issue to me a pre-paid label for express insured delivery to his workshop.
On my Centre Seconds, the hands were not properly set such that when the minute hand was on the twelve-o-clock double indices, the hour hand would be about a quarter of the way past the hour index. On the Big Date, the seconds hand would not remain stationary when the movement was hacked. I PM'd folks who had posted pictures of their Big Date on the forums and called an AD who had one in their case and learned that the seconds hand on theirs remained locked in place when hacked, as does the one on my Centre Seconds and do the ones on other brands' movements in my collection which have a hacking feature.
I have received assurances from Moser that these issues will be remedied and I am confident that with their commitment and Alkis' skills, I will be pleased with the results.
I'm at a point where I'd like to turn my attention to acquiring independent low-production pieces rather than those from mass-producers. I'm not a Daniels or Defour candidate (unless one comes up at a Sotheby's or Antiquorum auction that, magically, no one else is aware of), and Moser provides elegant precious metal pieces of a design I like very much at a price range I can rationalize. While the Venturer's design is different enough from the Monard's case for me to not consider it a redundant addition, it is still fairly similar. I will be interested to see whether Moser adds entirely new designs or casual/sports watches in the future. With the recent involvement of MELB and Meylan and son, I do feel Moser presents a stable offering in this low-batch space that should give buyers confidence.
...and I can easily understand your leaning towards independents. After visiting the area of the independent watchmakers at Baselworld, I said to myself that I could be entirely happy collecting only pieces from these smaller brands, which produce interesting and often very innovative timepieces. Another element of attraction of independents is the personal interaction with the owners or creative spirits behind the brands. It makes a big difference to me to know the people who stand behind the watches.
Best
Stefan
....there is the Perpetual 1 with a case that also features this sensual arch....so there is really no excuse not to buy a Moser ;-)
have a good day
Stefan
Hi Francois,
there was no mentioning of a WG version. I guess they focus on bringing the watches the AD's first. However, looking at their range, a WG version would only be logical, earlier or later.
best
stefan