Independents

The title was too eye-catching, sorry...  I just have been to Shellman in Tokyo GInza, which was/is Japan's distributor of the major independent brands including Philippe Dufour, Haldimann, JDN, etc.  I could fortunately meet Mr. Isogai, the CEO of Shellma, the man who brought SImplicity boom into Japan (70 out of the first 100 were for Japanese collectors).  Most of the order for Japanese collectors are 34mm, FYI.

I thought that since the promised 200 pieces are almost done, and asked what Mr. Dufour was up to for the next.  But Mr. Isogai's answer was rather interesting, so let me share it with you. 

He was going to finish 200 pieces by the end of 2008 and it is already late.  But it is not because he got slow, but because his supplier is getting less competent.  At the beginning, he was making perhaps 25 or more per year as there was little problem about the suppliers.  But these days, it is not uncommon that the entire batch (5 or 6 pieces) get totally screwed because of the bad result (I won't specify).  Normally, I would think that then I would not pay and just let them do it again.  Wrong.  There suppliers do supply other big brands such as Patek, etc., and naturally supposed to be one of the best.  If I would ask them to re-do, then they would simply tell me to go ask someone else.  So, Mr. Dufour pays them with smile and ask nicely to do it again.  He eats the damage, pays for nothing, and re-do what he had done during the previous 3 months or so.  So, while the balance of the order is 15 or 20 pieces, it may well take two more years and Mr. Isogai predicts the delivery of the last piece would be in 2012.

And, oh yes, Mr. Dufour has been thinking of the next model for the past few years already.  Mr. Isogai did not elaborate and I don't know what it is.

So, be patient, those who ordered but not received yet.  The delay is not his fault and the wait will be, I am sure, worth it.



Now the photo of the day.  You don't see the samples of Simplicity anywhere else   Both are 34mm.

Very nice on my 6.5" wrist.

Ken

Normally, I'm crazy for enamel dials, but in this case I like the guilloche center and dauphine hands of the white metal version better.  Thanks for the pictures, Ken.  It's not everyday that you get to see a Simplicity.

Cheers,
Daos

The Roman numeral dial is NOT enamel or even porcelain, according to Mr. Isogai.  It is something else, fabricated.  Well made, but not enamel.
To me, I am okay with either one.  If someone get tired of the either dial, Mr. Dufour would change it for you, as long as there are stock left.

Ken

It's a beautiful watch, but the engraved dial is more what I expect from a Simplicity. 

Thanks again, Ken!

Cheers,
Daos

No message body

No message body

No message body

When you mention the suppliers, what do they supply?

Anyway, that reminds me a story about another watch, which was dear to me.

Same problems, same consequences.

But, in this case, it was the dial.

Are you speaking about the dial?

Thanks for a very interesting post, Ken, and for the information.

Best,

Nicolas

But, yeah, those things that are often outsourced by independents.

Ken

But also by a lot of Manufactures, by the way...

Best,

Nicolas

No message body

everything fits.
Of these two I prefer the enamel dial, even if I know it is not fired enamel.
The other watch is somehow just too gray.
Maybe it is the gold that gives more charator.
To each his own.
Thanks for this little report, we don't get to see Simplicities in stores very often.
Don

White metal with Guilloche dial and Rose Gold with Faux enamel dial.....both stunning and nicely matched with the case.
Personally, I prefer 34mm Guilloche Simplicity in WG since this is what Mr Dufour first created. For RG case, I prefer 37mm Roman numeral Faux enamel dial
since these are the ones earlier collectors convinced him to create.
Both set will create a nice collection with a wonderful history
*CL

Shellman is a very interesting store - selling top quality vintage Patek and modern independent watchmaking - and Mr Isogai is a deeply knowledgeable man. They have/had a Jean-Daniel Nicolas on hand as well when I visited recently.

In my conversations with Dufour earlier this year when the watch below was delivered he hinted the new product might be unveiled next year. Who knows?

Property of a gentleman collector

- SJX

Thanks JiaXian for the tip and photo. Vintage Patek and modern independent watchmaking, that's what I like!

I will be happily your guide

Ken

I drooooooooooool
*CL

NT

Thanks Ken for sharing. Wonderful pictures. Such a great pair !

My favorite is exactly the guilloche dial in WG or PT, paired with a faux enamel in RG, though I prefer 37mm to 34mm. How I wish I had ordered both five years before!

Always so pleasing to see pics of the Simplicity, and this pair is just outstanding! Also very interesting info. I did not realize that 70 of the first 100 were delivered to Japan. Also interesting to hear about the supplier issues.

I have to say the guilloche dial is my favorite, but every time is see the faux enamel with the romans, I wish I could have both!

The supplier issues are something I never read about before.
It makes the watch that much more of a treasure for all who own them.
One can imagine M. Dufour throwing out dials... all aspects of his story and the story of these watches add more meaning and humanity to them.

The 34mm versions are as beautiful and perfect as the 37mm.

I prefer the 37 white metal guilloche ultimately.... and a close second the 37 rg with Roman dial... but... who could argue with a Simplicity of any variety?!

It's great to see these two side-by-side.  I must admit I was unaware of the Roman Numeral dial.  Like Daos, I prefer the arabics with the guilloche dial, but if couse It's the other side of the watch I enjoy viewing the most.

If I had to name a "grail", this would likely be it.

Best,

CaliforniaJed

I love both of these Simplicty timepieces.

If I were ever granted the privilege to acquire one of these timepieces from Philippe Dufour himself, I would have a hard time deciding which one I would want...

Would I want it in gold with the white roman dial as depicted? Or would I want a version in platinum with the guilloche dial... What a compelling dilemma to have.

I can only hope that someday I will be granted the privilege to have such a dilemma.

Thanks ken for writing up the article and seeing photos of both those stunning pieces.

But should I ever be in a position (yea,in my dreams!!)  to ever lay hands on one of Mr Dufour's stunning watches, then I would very much like the 37 white metal guilloche.   

Thanks for the spectacular pictures and post!
What I would have given to have been there in your shoes as you tried these spectacular watches on!

Thanks for the update and for keeping the love of Dufour watches alive on this page- he is simply the most stunning watchmaker out there today.
HAGWE,
S

for me, thanks Ken for the info no wonder no news from Dufour on his next creation