Forewords: the prices below are available in France with VAT.
2018 was an extremely important year for Breguet considering the launch of the new Marine collection. 2019 seems to be quieter and can be considered as a year of consolidation for the brand that brings small changes to its collections. I'm not going to blame Breguet for introducing a limited number of novelties: on the contrary, I think it's the right strategy, especially in this segment. The novelties are evenly distributed between the Classique, Marine and Reine de Naples collections, as well as between men's and ladies' watches, which recalls the contribution of each collection to Breguet's performance. This is perhaps today its greatest strength: the evolution of the turnover doesn't depend on a single model or a single customer segment. It should be noted, however, that no novelty is found in the Type XXI / XXII collection. Let's go through these novelties.Classique CollectionClassique 5177
The Classique 5177 in white gold with blue enamel "grand feu" dial is superb. The rendering of the dial is subtle and magic because it offers superb shades and even the secret signature contributes to this visual effect. The watch is balanced thanks to its ideal size for an elegant piece (38mm) and the thinness of the bezel makes it a little bigger. The central second hand nicely animates the dial and I really like the contrast between the hands and the dial. Unsurprisingly, the movement is the automatic caliber 777Q which has a power reserve of 55 hours for a frequency of 4hz. Its decoration is sober and although I appreciate the decoration pattern of the winding mass, I would have liked to see Breguet more ambitious at this level. In any case, the watch is very pleasant to wear and attractive. But I have a regret: the date window. What a shame to have dedicated the dateless version, the famous 5175 Ginza Anniversary, to the Japanese market with only 10 pieces. A decision that I don't understand personally. When we know the version without the window (which is more consistent with such an enamel dial), it is difficult to consider the same way the Classique 5177.
The Classique 5177 is available in this configuration at a price of 23,100 euros.Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette (Ultra-thin Skeleton Tourbillon) 5395 is the star of the year at Breguet. This is undoubtedly a spectacular watch that is in line with the Classique Tourbillon Automatic. It finally allows to discover the manufacture from another angle thanks to a technical and in some aspects, more contemporary rendering. However, I have not been under the charm of this watch while I am an absolute fan of the classique 5377 (guilloche dial with power reserve display) or 5367 (enamel dial).
There are two reasons for this without denying the quality of the piece and its finishes. First of all the aesthetic approach doesn't seem to me to correspond to a Breguet watch and I have the impression to see two different worlds meet without a real consistency. Then, the removal of the mechanism of the power reserve display leaves a gap in the left part and I am not seduced by this imbalance.
The fact remains that the watch is solid from the technical point of view thanks to its movement 581SQ which allows to propose an automatic Tourbillon with a 4hz frequency and a generous power reserve of 80 hours. The ratio diameter (41mm) / thickness (7.7mm) finally gives a very slender style. An impacting watch that didn't totally convince me.