Omega

. . . how many crowns does it take to make an Omega whole?"

🤔

Yours truly had wanted an example of the first range of Omega's automatic chronometers for a long time.  After the celebrated Centenary issues (ref 2499 and 2500) of 1948 . . .

['48 Ω ref 2499, cal 28.10 JUB]

. . . Omega branched out with other automatic chronometer references in the Seamaster line and the line that was to become the Constellation.  Of particular interest was the range between consecutive reference numbers 2514 thru 2521, all of which were fitted with either caliber 333, 343, or 352 (sweep seconds) automatic movements.  Out of all, my favor fell especially on references 2514 and 2518 due to their having caliber 343 movements, which had the lowest total production (reportedly 5000) and exhibited the highest technical quality in a subsidiary seconds layout.

Several years ago I was able to acquire an early Seamaster chronometer ref 2576 . . .

 

. . . fitted with the cal 343 movement pictured above.  I was satisfied at that point, and gave up looking for a 2514 or 2518.  As it happened, though, Bill (the seller) wanted to have it back a few years later, so I let him take it back in a trade.  Then late last year, he contacted me as he was reducing his collection and down to three vintage Omegas: a manual wind jumbo ref 2686, the aforementioned steel ref 2576, and a rare ref OJ 2518 ('OJ' denoting 14 kt gold).  His 2576 was original and had been serviced by my watchmaker so it would've been the safer route, but I chose to take the rarer reference precisely because it was the scarcest.  You can search all day for 2518s on the 'net and not come up with more than half a dozen - it's that rare. 

The problem - other than sorely needing service - was the crown.  Here's a pic I took of the 2518 five years ago when Bill owned it.

The case had been polished, dial and hands were original, but the crown was clearly a replacement.  Here's a pic of a ref 2518 posted years ago on this forum by François . . .

. . . which has a correct typical Seamaster clover crown.  When I acquired the 2518 from Bill last fall, I had my watchmaker take the crown off to snap this macro:

At some point prior to 2015, a watchmaker had replaced the original clover crown with this intriguing yellow gold(!) naiad.  Figuring it would be a simple matter to source a correct clover crown, I contacted a friend who is an Omega certified watchmaker for the part number.  He came back with a reply I expected: the crown should be a 42023Y.  I found one on eBay, bought it, and gave it to my watchmaker along with the 2518.

A few days later, I got a phone call from my watchmaker.

"The crown you gave me is no good.  The crown is for a 2.5 mm post, but the case post is 2.0 mm."

😣

That's when I first realized the depth of the problem.  A certified Omega watchmaker had all the reference tools at his disposal, but came up with a result that didn't pan out.  Now, an Omega aficionado at this point might jump up and say, "Refs 2576 and 2518 are double references - they should take the same crown."  And they'd be wrong.  Apparently, ref 2576 takes a 2.5 mm crown, and some 2518s take a 2.5 mm crown, but there are 2518s that take a 2.0 mm crown.  The distinguishing factor might be case material.  (Mine is 14 kt yellow gold.)

So now, I knew I had to find a yellow clover crown that fits a 2.0 mm post.  It took extensive research and a fair bit of luck to narrow down the part number to BF 8100/1018Y.

Unfortunately, they no longer exist.

😖

At least, not on the internet.  I searched and searched, but no luck.  Finally, I found a 1018W - plain steel. 

"All I have to do is have it plated, and I'll be in business!"

So I bought it. 

Went back to my watchmaker.  "I've finally nailed down a correct crown," said I, "but it has to be plated, which will take some time."

"Well, the Omega is practically ready now, but I need a crown that fits.  I called my parts suppliers and none of them have a crown that works with your watch." 

So I went back to Google.  Fortunately, there was a supplier in LA county that had a yellow crown that would fit, but it was the wrong type.

As you can see in the pic above, the temporary crown (now I sound like a dentist!) was a 'bowler hat' type.  Incorrect, and obviously so.  It was fitted to get the service completed, and then I tried to find an outfit that would plate the steel 1018 crown to match yellow gold.

Here's the steel crown sourced on eBay:

After a brief search, I found an outfit that works with the tech and aerospace industries in Garden Grove, a stone's throw from where we were holding our 3-ball tournaments for a while.

😃

So I called them.  "Yes, we'll be able to plate your crown yellow.  $325."

😱

"Look, if you can find another crown, we'll plate it for no extra charge."

😐

"Ok," said I, figuring that I would at least have a spare crown in case it was needed down the road.  I found a 1018P (pink gold) on the 'net. 

The following Wednesday I took both crowns to the plating company in Garden Grove.  The next Monday, I called.

"Are my crowns ready?"

"I'm sorry, sir, but Juan is out of the office.  Please call back Thursday."

So I patiently waited 'til Thursday, and called again.

"I'm sorry, sir, but he'll be out all week.  Call again Monday."

You know what happened.  I called, but the manager apparently decided to take yet another week off, so I had to wait.

Contacted him the following Monday.

"I'm so sorry, Art - we've lost your crowns.  They were prepped and ready to be plated, but we lost track of them and they're nowhere to be found."

😧

Sensing defeat, I turned to the internet to search for a 1018 crown again.  This time, though, one popped up, and locally, too.  Steel, but it could be plated.  I rushed to downtown LA.

When I entered the watch parts supplier located in the jewelry district, my jaw dropped.  Chase, who posts on this forum [log-in:horology411], was behind the counter.

🙂

"Chase, what the hell are you doing here?  I thought you worked in Pasadena!"

Apparently, Chase had left his job and found gratifying work assisting this downtown parts supplier with technical know-how, among other duties.  When I first searched for a 1018 crown, their listing didn't come up.  Weeks later, it did.  Luck of the draw!

I showed him the 2518.  The owner of Hovig's Supply, Natalie, said, "We might have a yellow 1018.  Let me check."

A minute later, she came back with a 1018Y.  Which now adorns . . .

. . . the ref 2518.

That makes seven crowns total for this watch, starting with the original that was fitted in 1950.  For six degrees of separation.

😊

Epilogue: if you have a vintage watch that needs a part to restore it to correct condition, don't delay.  Supplies are literally disappearing.  In the last three years, I'm personally responsible for four crown listings on Otto Frei being de-listed.  In other words, I bought the last one they had in stock.  Including the 1018P that was lost during this escapade.

Art

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