Panerai has a way of teasing and enticing the souls of small-wristed watch enthusiasts, even more so of the female ones. For a woman, especially a petite one, walking into a Panerai boutique is a little like Shaquille O'neal at a Mini dealership. There's a lot of looking, admiring and even some trying but when it comes to owning, a sad realization often descends. "It's just too big/small for me," followed by "If only they made it in my size." This is the case for me with most of the watches in Panerai's collection.
Panerai Historic Radiomir PAM337
An "On-The-Wrist" Review
By Ping Tsai
© February 2011
42mm Radiomir PAM337
I currently own a 40mm Luminor GMT PAM159 which just fits on my wrist but I've always admired the Radiomir case with its softer lines, simple shape and elegance. Unfortunately, in terms of "smaller" Panerai watches, there isn't a great deal to choose from. Therefore one can imagine my excitement upon reading the news of Panerai's release of the PAM337, a new 42mm Radiomir at SIHH in 2010. Hearing that it was also equipped with the new in-house P.999 hand wound movement was just icing on the cake.
When I first saw the PAM337 in person, it had immediate appeal to me due to its smaller size. I noticed that the lady journalist next to me had a hard time putting the piece down. Her reluctance to part with it was made all the more evident in her gushing comments of affection. This is certainly a female friendly PAM I thought. It's a good choice for women especially since it's a Radiomir, the least bulky of the case shapes that Panerai offers. It carries cleaner, softer lines that are more compatible with a feminine persona.
When it was finally my turn to examine the watch, I strapped on the PAM337 and instantly noticed the difference in weight and bulk compared to my Luminor, PAM159. It was significantly lighter on my wrist, and I didn't feel any sharp edges digging into my skin when I flexed my wrist which I sometimes feel with my PAM159. I also noticed that it is slightly thinner than previous 42mm Radiomirs. With the comfort and visual elegance, this is such an easy Panerai to wear. I knew I needed to have more wrist time with it. To my good fortune, I had the opportunity to wear the PAM337 for a short while recently to get a better feel for it and examine its components more closely.
Case
The PAM337 consists of a 42mm polished stainless steel case. There are three other options also available in this line: the PAM336 with a brushed 18ct pink gold case and tobacco dial, the PAM378 with a polished pink gold case and black dial, and the PAM338 with a brushed titanium case and black dial. The pink gold and titanium versions have gold hands and the stainless steel alternative has steel hands.
Having the polished case in the PAM337 definitely gives it a more upscale formal look. It wasn't difficult to dress up by wearing it with a suit or dress. In contrast, it was just as easy to wear with casual clothes because of the simple minimalist look of the watch. The classic Panerai cushion shape of the case, with its strong visual presence, makes a statement even in its downsized version. It measures 13mm in thickness which is on the slimmer side for a Panerai.
PAM337 on top & PAM21 on bottom
PAM337 on top & PAM29 on bottom
The crown, a favorite feature of mine in Panerai watches, is a simple screw-down crown that is easy to grip and operate. Absent is the instantly recognizable crown guard that we find in the Luminor and Submersible models. However, just like the other features of the watch, the crown is equally prominent in size and shape. The end of it features a raised Pre-V logo. The PAM337 winds very smoothly and not loudly at all, once you get it going. I found that every time I unscrewed the crown counter-clockwise to wind it, it would not wind clockwise immediately. I had to turn the crown a couple of extra revolutions counter-clockwise unscrewed before I could proceed to wind it clockwise. It was almost as if I had to "unlock" it a second time. One full winding was able to last a good two to two and half days before I had to wind it again. The watch also feels very solid when turning the crown back and forth to change the time. In general, the feeling that one gets while operating the crown is definitely one of higher quality than any of the historic manual ETA's.
Pre-V logo on screw-down crown
Audible clicking when winding the PAM337
I've always gotten slightly more joy out of wearing a manual wind watch compared to an automatic one. There is something about winding a watch that allows you to gain a closer relationship with the mechanisms that power it. There's a deeper appreciation for the technological aspect of the timepiece. Perhaps there's a sense of empowerment that is derived from physically making a watch run in a manual wind as opposed to an automatic. It can be likened to operating a manual transmission vehicle in contrast to one with an automatic transmission. "It's simply more fun to drive stick," my husband has said. The duration of winding is definitive so there isn't any second guessing as to whether the watch has been wound enough. The routine of having to perform this task can easily become one to look forward to each day.
Dial
The PAM337 consists of a black sandwich dial with a small sub-seconds hand at the 9 o'clock position, polished stainless steel luminous hour and minute hands and luminous hour markers. Arabic numbers are present at the 12, 3 and 6 o'clock positions. The aesthetic look of the dial is simple, balanced and minimal.
Polished hands of the PAM337
When I first saw the watch, it was reminiscent of my husband's PAM21, a legendary piece that I was never able to wear because of its 47mm size. Even though the PAM337 has an extra seconds hand, I felt like I was able to capture a bit of the essence of wearing the PAM21 in a wannabe way.
47mm PAM21 on left & 42mm PAM337 on right
I actually preferred having the small seconds sub-dial. The seconds hand on the PAM337 hacks and provides some visual interest to the simple dial in the form of movement. It makes up for what is lost in symmetry from the missing "9" numeral. On the sides of the numeral "6" marker is printed in small letters "L SWISS MADE L". I really don't see the value of having this addition since Panerai doesn't use tritium anymore, so I would have preferred the dial with a cleaner look without the words.
The dial of the PAM337 does seem slightly top heavy so perhaps it was Panerai's attempt to balance it out a little more, but the print is so small that I feel it doesn't add much benefit to the overall aesthetic. Regardless, the detail is negligible. It is difficult not to fall in love with the overall elegance of Panerai dials and this one is no different.
PAM337's sandwich dial
Movement
Turning the PAM337 over reveals a sapphire crystal case-back through which the mechanical hand-wound Panerai Calibre P.999 movement is displayed. Other than its smaller size, the other standout feature about this watch is that it is the first 42mm Radiomir to contain one of Panerai's in-house movements. The movement itself measures just 27.4mm in diameter by 3.4mm thick making it smaller and thinner than other calibers that the company has produced and enabling the slimmer case size of the watch.
P.999/1 movement & sapphire display back of the PAM337
The P.999/1 contains 19 jewels which are amongst the 154 components in total that make up this single-barrel movement. The construction allows for a 60 hour power reserve. The balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour. It also has a swan's neck regulator that allows for micrometrical adjustment of the active length of the spring and an Incabloc® anti-shock protection device.
The P.999/1 is a base movement with hours, minutes and seconds only. It would not be surprising to eventually see Panerai put in-house movements in entry level Historic Collection models with manual wind such as the PAM005, 111, 113 and 177. The company did release the in-house P.3000 hand wound base movement this year at SIHH for their base 1950 models and some 47mm special edition Radiomirs which may fit inside the historic cases. However, in case the P.3000 movement doesn't fit in 44mm Historic Luminors, Panerai could easily use the P.999/1 or a variant of it instead.
The finishing of the P.999/1 is just as basic as its functionality. Aside from minimal anglage along the edges and some perlage on the base plate peeping through, not much has been added to the movement in terms of surface design. Although the visual appeal of the movement goes far with its own physical construction, Côtes de Genève or more perlage would have increased the upscale, fine look of the watch. In addition, the bridges of the movement have extremely attractive and elegant curves that would have been greatly enhanced by more pronounced anglage. Hopefully we will see a highly finished P.999 movement in a limited edition piece someday in the future - now that would definitely be a sight to see.
Strap and Fit
The PAM337 is, without a doubt, the most comfortable Panerai that I've ever worn due to its smaller size and lighter weight. There were times when I forgot that I was even wearing a watch and that is extremely hard to do with a Panerai. Usually, slight movements of the arm will cause the weight of the watch to shift on the wrist causing small vibrations and always reminding you of its presence.
The thin rounded lugs allowed for maximum flex of the brown alligator strap in order to achieve a snug fit on my wrist. This is extremely helpful for a woman or someone with a small wrist when wearing an oversized watch. The tight fit ensures that the watch has minimal shift of weight while being worn. In regards to watches, there is nothing I find more unpleasant than wearing a large watch and having it roll around on my wrist resembling a bangle more so than a wristwatch.
The strap comes with a stainless steel tang buckle with "PANERAI" engraved on the tongue. I noticed that it was similar to the buckle on the PAM21 minus the engraved company name.
Because the watch is thinner, it was much easier to fit under sleeves. I also didn't have the problem of the watch getting caught in a jacket armhole that I often had with my PAM159. For men, custom cuff shirts are definitely not needed with this particular Radiomir.
In Conclusion
The PAM337 is a watch that is well suited for those who are looking for a base Panerai model and who might not be able to or want to wear their more common 44-47mm models. It's also for owners who can appreciate the bonus feature of having a movement that is completely manufactured by Panerai. There may not be a significant difference in reliability and functionality between the previous ETA equipped watches and the new in-house ones. However, it may be synonymous with eating a chocolate chip cookie that is store bought versus one that is home-made. It is the sentiment of having something that is purebred, rarer and not marketed to the masses.
The PAM337 is a smart choice for women in particular. It's a paired down version of the classic Panerai look that is not only comfortable to wear for any occasion but also elegant enough to reflect a stylish and sophisticated attitude. Come to think, how does a woman even wear a Panerai? How can it be done when you are a 105lb somewhat quiet, introverted Asian gal and not, for example, the tall, strong, model-like wife of a certain former NFL pro football player? Having personal experience with being the former, owning and wearing my PAM159 for the past 7 years, there's little doubt in my mind that it's not only possible but even desirable and admirable.
When it comes to wearing big watches like Panerai, it has to be done in the right away, and I always observe two rules of thumb. They are 1.) Make sure the case fits you and 2.) Make sure the strap fits you. The PAM337 is the perfect base Panerai that satisfies both these criteria for a woman. Initially, I was worried that even 42mm would be too large for me. 40mm is normally my max. The lugs however were thin enough that the extra 2mm weren't an issue. Aside from the case, it's important to request an extra short strap if it is too long or punch extra holes to achieve the tight fit. Two extra holes were needed for the 337 in this case. When you already have a lot of dial and case visible, you want to have as little strap visible as possible.
PAM337 wristshot on my small 5.5" wrist
PAM337 wristshot on my husband's 6.75" wrist
Video of PAM337 on a 6.75" wrist
And finally, I've always viewed Panerai as a "confident" Italian brand with "confident" watches. It is a confidence that is very much like that which I witnessed years ago in Rome when a local stranger on the street asked whether he could kiss me…to which I emphatically replied, "No!" Similarly, Panerai is a brand that should be worn with confidence. The PAM337 is an ideal piece to start off with for a woman to embody this confidence, and perhaps even a bit of romance and sexiness. It is a watch that can undeniably be sexier on a woman than a man.
**Disclosure: The watch in the review is one of Panerai’s PAM337 prototypes. I initiated the loan request for the PAM337 for the sole purpose of writing this review and then returned the watch back to Panerai. I did not receive any compensation or special favors from Panerai to write this review. **
Specifications
Movement: hand-wound mechanical, Panerai Calibre P.999 or P.999/1, manufactured by Panerai, 12 lignes, 3 thick, 19 jewels, 60 hours power reserve, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour. Swan's neck regulator in the P.999 calibre. Incabloc® anti-shock device.
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds.
Case: diameter 42mm, polished steel, or brushed titanium or 18 ct pink gold with removable wire loop strap attachments (patented). Screw-down winding crown personalised OP.
Bezel: polished steel or 18 ct pink gold.
Back: see-through sapphire crystal.
Crystal : sapphire, made from corundum, 1.5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 10 bar (~100 metres).
Strap: alligator with PANERAI personalised steel or 18 ct pink gold buckle.
MSRP: $7400
47mm PAM21, 42mm PAM337, and 44mm PAM29
40mm Luminor PAM159 & 42mm Radiomir PAM337
Copyright February 2011 - Ping Tsai & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved
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