Jaeger-LeCoultre

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First Impressions: JLC Novelties at SIHH 2010

Just back from vacation and having missed all of the excitement last week, I have been pouring over the photos and reports and comments since I returned.  Here are my very initial thoughts on the several new watches launched.  I look forward to continue learning more about these watches and reading the comments of my fellow Purists.  Of course all of the following comments come with the caveat: IMHO.

Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph

I am actually glad to see a new version of this Compressor.  It means that what I still consider the flagship of the Compressor line still has a life in it even though it has been around for five years now and has been complemented by an Extreme Alarm, a full range of awesome diving Compressors, and now an almost affordable Extreme LAB. The EWC design remains brilliant and compelling.

Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 & Tribute to Geophysic

OK, this one is awesome!  Even though I am now officially bored with digital display counters (funny, but I don’t see Patek going down this road), this watch is pretty cool for all that it does and how it does it. The features list for this watch is so long.  I have a feeling it might become the Ultimate Sports Watch. This is one I really have to learn more about and consider to fully understand all its capabilities.  My first take on it, however, is that I do not love the overall design; but I also think it might grow on me. Right now it kind of reminds me of some AP ROOs. 

Reverso Squadra Chronograph GMT Palermo Open

What can I say?  I am disappointed that the Squadra line continues to be in what I see as a holding pattern.  I keep waiting for the next generation Squadra, but we keep getting new case materials and slight alterations at best. Am I missing something here? 

Master Compressor Diving Automatic Navy SEALs

I think this is an outstanding addition to the diving lineup.  We needed a simple time-only and smaller sized diver and this one delivers beautifully.

Master Memovox & Memovox International

These two beautifully resurrect the Memovox after an absence.  I am not sure I understand how the cities disk works on the International, but it is a romantic watch.  The 40mm size is a really nice size for the new Memos (not too small and not too large – hopefully a happy medium for many of us). 

Master Chronograph

It is a good thing to have a chrono in the Master series, as it helps to round out the Master lineup.  But I think I will have a hard time getting excited about this one given the chronos JLC has already produced in the recent and not so recent past. Starting with the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde, the sports models, the Duometre, the AMVOX2 and even the Squadras, this Master Chronograph is, well, boring. Not even a display caseback.   It is lovely as a pretty traditional and dressy chronograph, filling a gap in the classic watch lineup, but it is not compelling as the other JLC chronos are.

Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

Another one I will have to learn more about and consider.  I am glad to see JLC introduce a celestial watch, although I suppose the Reverso Tryptique did this already. I am really getting bored with tourbillions.  I think we already know that JLC can put a tourbi into almost any watch it wishes to.  I do not love this watch at first glance – perhaps it is too contemporary, yet not avant garde enough looking for such “old” complications as sky charts and minute repeaters.

Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire

Despite some relatively minor reservations about specific design elements, this next generation Duomètre is stunning both in its technical specs and its overall design.  This is yet another that I need to consider much more just to understand all that it does. All of the elements seem to me to be harmonious, even the foudroyante, and supportive of the accuracy of the piece and the starring lunar calendar function.  I am not crazy about the apertures at 4 and 7, but there is, in fact, something to see inside.  I will wait to see what the final moon disk looks like before judging the one seen thus far in the press photos, which does not seem to be at the same level as the overall watch.

Amvox2 Grand Chronograph

Yay! Another LE version of AMVOX2. (I should avoid sarcasm, but I could not help myself.)

Of course I have neglected the jewellery and Atmos.  Sorry, but I am sure I have already said too much.

At the end of this first impression, I am simply dazzled once again by The Manufacture. While it seems to me that the vast majority of “new” watches introduced in any given year by all of the manufacturers are mere facelifts or reintroductions of previously introduced watches in a different metal, the breadth of new watches AND new movements introduced again this year by JLC is utterly stunning.  What other manufacture could launch such a range of sports, classic, complicated, and jewellery watches in any given year?

Congratulations, JLC!

respo

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