AndCavanaugh
183
Was the first American AHCI Candidate a Fraud?
Jan 07, 2025,19:52 PM
Steven Phillips (Istvan Fulop Hanzely) of Budapest Watch Company was a Hungarian born American master watchmaker and the first American candidate (not member) for AHCI membership
1 . Phillips claimed to design and build his watches from scratch, except for the springs and jewels
2 , in the fashion of Gene Clark or George Daniels. The cheapest model Phillips sold,
Millennium Series, started at $16,500 for a titanium watch with small gold lugs. Others broke $30K
3 . As a reference point, a Rolex Submariner was around $4k in those days. I’m not sure how many, if any, he sold at the sticker price,
it looks like the buyer got this one 80% off.
He was passing off inexpensive Hangzhou movements as his own work. Identifying this movement wouldn’t have been possible without the help of
Chascomm on the Watchuseek Chinese mechanical watches forum. Images are scarce this side of the great firewall, but searching "西湖 自动手表" on Baidu will bring up plenty in Xihu (Hangzhou's house brand) watches
4 . The skeleton variant is even more obscure, though I managed to find one using Baidu reverse image search
5 . To his credit, Phillips did add some "anglage" (and LE number) on the dial side.
The movement is of domestic Chinese design, similar to the SN2 calibers made by Nanjing (and others), but much smaller. Hangzhou moonlit as an assembly house for Daini Seikosha's 7009A movements during the 80s (like Sellita was for ETA), which explains the magic lever winding system. Some more background from chinesewatchwiki.net, which also explains the caliber's strange proportions: "Meeting the challenge of a changing market in the 1980s, the [Hangzhou] factory introduced an automatic Xihu watch. This was a man-sized watch, but the movement was based on the small Xihu calibre with an enlarged main plate and a very simple auto-winding module with a large rotor."
Eternal Winding System
Phillips invented an Atmos-like automatic wristwatch wound by the contortions of a bimetallic spring in response to temperature change instead of by an oscillating weight. His Eternal Winding System (EWS) didn’t require a special movement either, it just replaced the rotor on a normal automatic movement. Some good pictures of it can be found
here. JLC’s Atmos uses a chloroethane filled bellows with a diameter of
120mm, and, thanks to a hyper-efficient torsion pendulum, runs on only ~2.5e
-7 watts of mechanical power
6 . For comparison a fully wound ETA 2824-2’s barrel torque is ~12 Nmm, and the barrel rotates five times over 38 hours. 2pi * 5 turns * 0.012 Nm / 136800 s=
2.76e
-6 watts.
His system would have to produce much more power than an Atmos, in a much, much smaller form factor. Others have poked enough holes in the idea already, so I'll leave it there. I'll also speak a little in his defense: I see no theoretical reason this couldn't work at a different scale, with a torsion pendulum clock and much, much, much larger bi-metallic spring. His US patent
7 is expired if anyone wants to try making Atmos without the toxic, flammable gas.
References / sources not linked in situ:
- Two New ‘Candidates’ at the Acadamy, Europa Star, 2001 ↩︎
- Conversation with Mr. Phillips, WatchProSite.com , 2001 ↩︎
- Budapest Watch Company Website (Archived by WaybackMachine) ↩︎
- Image from 7788.com (Archived by Baidu) ↩︎
- Image from zhe2.com (Archived by Baidu) ↩︎
- JLC’s marketing material claims 60 million Atmos clocks use the same amount of energy as a 15-watt light bulb ↩︎
- US6457856B1
Moderator Edit: Link to original poster's website removed as per self promotion rule.
This message has been edited by patrick_y on 2025-01-08 03:20:03