mahesh
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SIMON BRETTE, a NEW Independent in town…
It always makes me happy when, once in a while a talented watchmaker decides to go the Independent route…
Why not….Independent watchmakers have always pushed the boundary of the watchmaking design, mechanics and always tested the areas least explored.
Like most entrepreneurial ventures this isn’t the easiest path, only passion, dedication and dream could drive a watchmaker attempt to create a timepiece that he/she has in mind.
This is definitely have been the path of Grand Masters like Philippe Dufour, George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, or the ones who chose similar path, be it Gronefeld brothers, Rexhep Rexhepi, Romain Gauthier or Richard Habring...
Simon Brette has made the choice to move out of career in MB&F amidst Covid lockdown and create his own timepiece! After spending over 3 years in design and construction and testing of prototypes, Today launches his subscription timepiece !
But before getting to know the watch, let us get to know the person... who is this Simon Brette and is he another ’Instagram generation watchmaker’ ?!
Simon Brette is a micro mechanics engineer specialised on movement design and construction in France. For the last 10 years he have worked on some specific movement or mechanism design that are a bit different to the regular.
To start with a timepiece we’re familiar with…
MB&F LMX - he designed the ‘vertical PR’ module which can be rotated to show the ‘day’
MB&F HM10 - case design and construction
MB&F HM9 - the full sapphire case design
MCT Duodenal One D110 - DIGITAL jump hour movement conceptualisation and construction
Now that we know what he has done, Let us see his subscription timepiece...
''Chronomètre Artisans’’ - A CLASSIC TIME ONLY MANUALLY WOUND CHRONOMETER…12 timepieces in total, made 1 per month and delivered in next 12 months.
Case : classically proportioned 39 mm x 10,5 mm made in Zirconium for subscription timepieces only.
Dial: Solid Red Gold (5N) partial open-work dial with a hand-created scales-like texture that he learnt from his father who is a craftsman in wood carpentry.
- Lug to Lug dimension : 45 mm and Spacing between Lugs : 20 mm
- Caliber: SBCA, his self-designed 2,5Hz manually wound twin barrel with 3 days power reserve from 45 crown rotations.
- Phynox balance wheel and Grade-5 Titanium bridges helps the movement remain anti-magnetic.
I don’t want to elaborate on the finishing…anglage, mirror polishing, gear teeth hand polish etc but specifically for those who look for hand-finishing in their timepieces.....
I will draw your attention to just the screw heads…YES….CONCAVE screw heads with mirror polish.
Finally a wrist shot of the Prototype 2 that I happened to try few months ago…already you can imagine how hard it was to give back the prototype after wearing half a day !
Personally i see a well designed modern timepiece, a honest attempt from a young watchmaker with some distinct personality or design cues.
Having met him few times now, he is passionate about what he does and open to feedbacks on his work, that excites me as a collector.
I look forward to the success of Simon Brette and his next timepiece after the subscription timepieces.
Let me know what you think…
Best,
Mahesh.,
More posts:
SIMON BRETTE, a NEW Independent in town…
It always makes me happy when, once in a while a talented watchmaker decides to go the Independent route… Why not….Independent watchmakers have always pushed the boundary of the watchmaking design, mechanics and always tested the areas least explored. L...
Already sold out until 2027...
Guess I was slow The price is very fair considering what the quality of work is...
unfortunately I discovered it quite late too.
but the work is definitely something to bet on the future.
This is one of the very few watches
That I regret not subscribing to when I had the chance. I just felt uncomfortable depositing money off a rendering for a maker attempting his first watch. The watch itself, in my very humble opinion, is a marvel. And I would be very happy to own one.
Sucks
I don’t really post my watches or anything like that and don’t want to have a public profile because I have employees that would be less than excited to see what the collection is like 😂
Tsk Tsk. Social media is the death of society..
If being off of it, aside from these forums keeps my sanity, than unfortunately I will gladly miss these little opportunities. Just my humble opinion.
By far the best
But for those of us with toddlers at home....very hard to travel overseas. So social media it is.
Absolutely agree with you on that my friend.
Visiting events and GTGs and meeting amazing collectors (like you and watchmakers is most of the joy of collecting imho.🙏🏻🙏🏻
true that, I didn't knew about it earlier too but there were people who were ahead - at least 12 ;-)
the timepiece packs a good level of work IMHO
Always asking myself: what‘s the point in presenting a watch to the world after it’s sold out? I do not like the way watch collecting is heading towards and this is another example.
Buying independants was really fun a few years ago. No it‘s just showing off it seems.
I don’t understand your logic
Displaying a new watch is like displaying a new piece of art. Just because you can’t own it doesn’t mean there isn’t value in seeing it
I understand your frustration but I would differ...owning one and being able to get one is not the focal point to appreciate someones' honest efforts.
first thing, do I think the timepiece is good or to my liking or not. after all, we can't own all what we like always. I also think we should appreciate the fact that he doesn't take orders for 5 years wait list rather saying I'm working on my first 12 - ...
This is not about me getting one or not getting one, There‘s a lot of nice pieces I didn‘t get and I‘m not salty about it.
A brand, the brands positioning, the brand‘s marketing, its market behavior are integral parts of a product. Brands like Patek or Apple wouldn‘t be where they are now, if those things wouldn‘t matter. So everyone releasing a new product and creating a new...
I understand fully and I have walked out of certain brands, watchmakers for those reasons you highlight above.
I've seen up close, for a 100 pcs timepiece a humble independent watchmaker have to buy from his supplier sometimes 5x components - the effort isn't as easy as it appears from our perspective. my only point is, when a guy is trying - his very first attemp...
It's a small outfit...maybe just a few people making these watches?
Let's be honest, by the time the working prototype is shared here, hundreds of people have already been presented with the renders. It's great in a way, as many of the talents behind the big brands can now present more personal work and take advantage of ...
I’m still not following you
Simon Brette is a tiny operation. He can’t make many watches. Just isn’t physically possible. This is simple supply and demand economics
I showed your post to a friend
And she commented that scarcity is a prerequisite to conspicuous consumption. So, I understand that this is a big turn-off to you, as it is to me. However, I would recommend getting to the root of one's enjoyment of this hobby, which for me is appreciatin...
I hear your frustrations…really
It feels to me that due to the fact that SB is after all, an independent, his networking capabilities would be far more limited versus the corporates. I’m sure he had to sell on souscription to get the initial pieces moving, and then market the volume of ...
I like what I see but…
One watch a month is a joke, as if you can’t turn out more than 12 watches a year… or all 12 in one month. Yes sure he finishes first everything for one watch in one month and then the second watch in the second month, just give me a break. Sorry, does no...
It looks attractive and unique
I probably wouldn't buy it, but it is a good addition to the independent scene
that's it Andrea !
it is a good timepiece that aims to offer something different to the rest.
Incredible piece. It's not often that new pieces capture my ardent attention, but this one does.
So many interesting textures, techniques and features. Out of my price range, for sure, but one can dream... Well done, Simon Brette, and thanks, Mahesh, for bringing this to our attention. Cheers, John
Thanks for sharing Mahesh!
We are most fortunate to be spoiled for choice with so many talented independent watchmakers. I like the fact that the lugs of the watch only add an additional 6mm to the length of the the watch making it extremely wearable. More brands should take note o...
thanks Sham, happy you liked it.
I agree, lug to lug is a measurement all timepieces should mention - it assures wearability. Best, mahesh.,
Wow, I love this!
Thank you so much for sharing as I had not heard of him before (although looks like he's getting a ton of press today). There have been very few new independents recently whose watches spoke to me and this was like love at first sight! I know it can be fr...
well said !
I'm happy to see youngsters taking up watch making...it gives a sense of hope for the future too. He made the launch and starting as independent today & so naturally on the press.
Mahesh
I think SB is great. Another one of those unicorns you find every now and then, just ever so rarely. I think new, solid entrants like him will continue to change the landscape for independents. Really like the design, the finishing, etc. It probably is on...
I think we think alike...
what impressed me the most with him, a part from his talent/skills - the guy is humble and willing to listen to views of collectors and taking them seriously.
Yes he is
Not just humble but honest, which is a rare combination these days. Best Gatsby
This historic moment just reminds me before 2008
Tons of tourbillon, 2,3,4 per watch, it was a race in putting the more they could. Now we see many new independent young watchmakers, extremely talented, whose works shift from merely high level finishing in already existing movement to amazing creations ...
Storm & Calm are part of the eternal cycle ;-)
true there are recent trends - open work wasn't popular neither with watch makers nor with collectors community - in recent years this has totally been the contrary. I also think, there is a distinct design code between the new ones... let say Theo Auffre...
Was about to post it
And my title was new sheriff in town lol Great minds think a like
Thanks for this great post about the new wonder kid in town
Simon is such a nice and humble guy , i was lucky to meet him for the first time last year and saw the first proto back then . I must admit it was some time ago that i was so impressed about a new release but when i saw his proto it gave me goosebumps. So...
You already know how I feel Mahesh. Happy to say Simon is a friend and happy you got to spend more time with him and our group this past W&W 😉❤️💥
Just an indescribable piece on the wrist. Will not say anymore than that as there are still SECRETS to keep at this point 😉🤫🤫🤫🤫 ...
