I have never written a watch review so I’m excited to do my first one on the Romain Gauthier Logical One. I have a basic understanding about most complications in watchmaking knowing some are game changers so nuanced it’s really as much about the creation as any functional change. So although I’ve done my research I may plagiarize to a certain extent on the technical side of things while voicing my opinions about them. Also the pictures are either credit to A Collected Man, or my good buddy Brandon who will be helping me with pictures. I am proud to say, the picture I posted on Watch Purist Pro was reposted on Instagram by one of the moderators, a great honor. I feel/hope this review is a personal insight from me to all that read it, my posting skills need work and if mis-speak about a technical aspect please forgive me.
Why Romain Gauthier? I saw the Logical One perusing the Watchville site and it hit me like a brick, I immediate started looking everywhere I could, I also started talking to AD’s about what the Logical One was besides drop dead gorgeous! Aesthetically, I specifically fell in love with the RG in white gold with the rose gold face place and rose gold movement decoration. I like all the Logical One’s but that was the one I was most interested in and wouldn’t settle for anything else. The white enamel dial with blue Arabic numbers was my first choice but after seeing the black dial contrasting with the rose gold base plate and brown strap I thought that combination was perfect. I was somewhat worried the black dial would not be as legible as the white but the black works fine albeit the white dial would be a little easier. FYI, if/when I send it in the RG for service I am considering changing the dial to the white enamel and saving the black one for a later change, not sure yet but how wonderful to have that option with RG... All the input I received was extremely positive, especially from my friend Brandon who practically begged me to buy one so he could live vicariously through me. Tim Jackson from “Passion Fine Jewelry”, an AD for RG and whose opinion I value greatly said the Logical One was in his top five watches of all time. Robert at “A Collected Man” also told me the watch was Very special. I was convinced I has a winner with RG so I started researching the technical side and the cost of the watch new/used.
The big differences Aesthetically: The biggest thing that struct me, over other watches in my collection, was the many levels of depth of the dial side, there are 2 distinct hemispheres of depth to the dial: The chain and snail on the left and the dial/sub dial on the right complete with full view of the escapement on the right. IMHO, part of RG’s genius was the ability to show so much while not giving the appearance it is crowed together. It is hard to count but there must be at least 10 different layers displayed in the openworked design to view, from the hands and incabloc, down to the plates below the wheels underneath the chain. I have seen and owned my share of open-worked dials and none have been this complex while simple looking without clutter or confusion about what you are seeing. The only other watch, which I do not own, IMHO, that would come close is the AP double balance wheel openworked. As I said on Purist, “I had a physical sensory reaction” when I saw the watch, I actually gasped and felt shivers. Of course the gold main plate with a lovely frosted finish, the chain and snail Highly finished, the Rubies inside the chain’s links, the bridge that holds the balance, the custom screw which affixes the subdial to the dial and the polishing of gear teeth all harmonize perfectly together in the many layers I mentioned above. Watching the balance wheel oscillate while in full view of the interplay between the escapement and pallet fork is a concert.
The front RG, the depth and the layers are incredible The white gold case is also very special.
From the curved lugs, that are also frosted on the sides, the push button winding mechanism to the “no crown” winding mechanism to the sculptured shaped sides and tastefully shaped time changer at 2 ‘clock, this is a work of art. Did I mention the rubies on the chain wheels yet
. The case is 41mm by 14.2mm, a little tall for some, but absolutely acceptable to get that 10 levels of separation I discussed. I believe what RG has done in such a small space is unbelievable especially when you compare it to say a MB&F etc. Wearing the watch is Dream, nice solid heft but not to heavy, curved lugs that make the downward fit look perfect, flat crystal with IR coating and a very comfortable strap with a WG tang buckle. It would easily fit a 6.5 inch wrist.
9 out of 10
The second shot is the repost of my post on Instagram by the Moderator.
This my Buddy Brandon posting on Instagram and says it all Game. Over.
Technically: The Logical One is a three hand watch so the main complications are the chain and snail (not chain and Fusee) where by pressing a button on the case an extending arm reaches out and advances the barrel, both very innovative. The two together are very complicated and new (to me), although you don’t get to time anything or seen the full moon, you do get extreme accuracy at about 2 seconds a day +-. As I’ve studied it the chain and snail complication makes for more accurate time keeping with less friction (including the rubies in the chain to help eliminate that issue) the chain and snail assembly and the winding does not interpupt the constant power to the balance wheel and according to the watch maker be less likely to break
9.5 of 10
Chain and Snail with rubies and more depth on the left side, so cool!
The side winder:The winder I mentioned above is something I want to highlight, I’ve personally never seen something like this, maybe the UN Freak winding on the back of the case or the AP 31 day with a key to wind it but this is different and very cool with a caveat. On the RG case at the 9:00 o’clock position the watch has a medium size but discreet pusher used for winding, it blends in very well. Using the pusher, and this is the caveat, takes more than a mild push, it takes a focused push about 80 times to fully wind the watch, it is not as mindless as a winding crown and some might think it is a pain. But it’s worth it to me for the experience you get every time you wind it. While winding it you can look at the dial or the movement and every push rewards you with positive motion, on the dial you see the chain and snail move, oh so small, on the movement you see the spring tighten, the winding arm engaging all while watching the power reserve move towards it goal of hitting full. The power reserve is 46 hours and I have gotten that consistently, basically I get to enjoy the show every 2 days!
9 of 10 it’s really cool.
The side pusher for winding, note the recessed frosted lugs.
The Movement: is Bitchen (an old word from my hippie days in the 60’s). Beautifully done in rose gold showing the large main spring, gears/wheels, 37 jewels and the power reserve with all the dramatic cut outs that show you just enough of this stuff without over doing it. The movement also has 8-9 layers of depth, It is dramatic and finished very well, probably not up to a Roger Smith or Kari Voltilainen but you would have to look close to see the differences.
The overall look is a 9.5 out of 10, or bitchen.
The money shots, the overall balance and symmetry, then the cut outs, beautifully finished edges, the winding spring, the multi-layers gear wheels
Just enough openworks but not too much
Value: In a general sense Independent watchmakers, especially with very low production, have to charge for their passion and non production line work so the price is gong to be higher than many other high end brands. I’m not saying anyone is cutting corners but you all know the cost difference between producing 50 watches and 40,000 watches. There is also inherent risk in long term service and support. “You pays your money and you takes your chances” is what my dad told me, I looked for my watch on the used market and the price seemed reasonable in comparison to what I saw on the market, so I’m happy. If you want brand new you will pay more for that, but for me taking away a significant amount of depreciation was the way to go and I feel the value equals what I received.
Overall:The Romain Gauthier to me is a perfect blend/balance of impressive harmonization, fit, style, color and innovation. Not to mention the three “oh my’’s ” when the watch maker at CJ Charles Jewelers saw it.
Overall 94 points out of 100 on my my unsophisticated wine making scale, 5 categories X 2 at 10 point each for a 100 point scale ...Jim